cleaning brake rotor - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-08-2015, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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cleaning brake rotor

Rear brake rotor seems to have rusted over the winter, even though it was in a dry shed. What is the easiest way to remove it?


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post #2 of 10 Old 03-08-2015, 01:56 PM
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Depends upon degree of rusting, IMHO.

If light surface rust, a few miles with ordinary brake application will hone it off, I should think.

If severely pitted, another matter . . . may require professional re-surfacing, within service limits.

WHAT am I saying? I really have no idea, only--I've allowed the fine abrasive effect of my brake pads to polish my own rotor, when tarnished.
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-08-2015, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Depends upon degree of rusting, IMHO.

If light surface rust, a few miles with ordinary brake application will hone it off, I should think.

If severely pitted, another matter . . . may require professional re-surfacing, within service limits.

WHAT am I saying? I really have no idea, only--I've allowed the fine abrasive effect of my brake pads to polish my own rotor, when tarnished.
I agree. Brake disks rust naturally even when you don't notice it. So, just ride it and the pads will clean the disk and it won't hurt the pads. If the part not wiped by the pads really bothers you, you can sand that area or even use some commercial rust remover. I would ignore that part.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-08-2015, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. 30 min on an oil change and getting the battery in, 4 hrs shoveling snow out to the shed so I can get it to the road


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post #5 of 10 Old 03-08-2015, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
I agree. Brake disks rust naturally even when you don't notice it. So, just ride it and the pads will clean the disk and it won't hurt the pads. If the part not wiped by the pads really bothers you, you can sand that area or even use some commercial rust remover. I would ignore that part.
I wouldn't use a cleaning product other than actual brake cleaner on the rotors. While the part referenced is not the part in contact with the pads, overspray can affect and reduce brake performance. Furthe,r some chemicals ignite under the heat and can even enbrittle the rotor metal.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-09-2015, 11:54 AM
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Guess I have to be the odd one out. I recommend that you use a fine sandpaper of the type intended for wood working rather than for metal. The reason is that carborundum and similar metal types are more likely to embed abrasive into the surface of the disk. Rub in a circular fashion around the rotor such that the scratches are not parallel with the rotor's wear/exterior. I recommend cleaning with a cloth dampened with brake cleaner and that the pads be similarly treated. Following this, proceed with the pad brake in recommended by the pad manufacturer.

If you embed the iron oxide from the rust into the pad and disk surface, you will not produce the intended disk and pad friction surfaces. An additional problem is that the iron oxide/rust embeded into the pad is likely to increase rotor wear beyond that expected. If unable/unwilling to remove the caliper, the procedure can still be performed by prying the pads back from the rotor.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-09-2015, 05:53 PM
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Regrets if this post is off-topic:

Installed 320-mm rotor; used OEM pads. Riding partner (now, 60,000 miles on his '08) installed an oversize rotor also, but used Galfer Green pads.

Comparing the two rotors after some miles, mine looked like a 78 rpm phonograph record (young folks, find some ancient senior citizen to explain, "phonograph record"); grooved, as it were. His was relatively smooth.

Thus, I changed to Galfer Green. Wear faster, but . . . stop fine. "Kinder and gentler" than OEM pads, IMHO; YMMV!

More irrelevancy, perhaps--steel-braided front brake line improved caliper responsiveness; verified by calibrated seat-of-the-pants!

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post #8 of 10 Old 03-09-2015, 06:33 PM
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I'm on guard when I read your posts so you didn't catch me out this time. I'd definitely have sprayed my lap top with coffee if hadn't been prepared.

Funny post!

I downloaded an Andriod ap to measure deceleration so wondered what you might measure? I'm seeing a bit over 0.7 G but need to try with the new ap as should be easier to read. Most of the reading issues were handled by simply putting the phone in my pocket. It makes for longer sample times because have to start, phone into pocket, glove on, then accelerate and brake before stopping to retrieve phone and stop sample. It does deal with the bike vibration scrambling the sample.

Too lazy lately to get out there so might go now.

Any chance you could compare between the two bikes/pads?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Regrets if this post is off-topic:

Installed 320-mm rotor; used OEM pads. Riding partner (now, 60,000 miles on his '08) installed an oversize rotor also, but used Galfer Green pads.

Comparing the two rotors after some miles, mine looked like a 78 rpm phonograph record (young folks, find some ancient senior citizen to explain, "phonograph record"); grooved, as it were. His was relatively smooth.

Thus, I changed to Galfer Green. Wear faster, but . . . stop fine. "Kinder and gentler" than OEM pads, IMHO; YMMV!

More irrelevancy, perhaps--steel-braided front brake line improved caliper responsiveness; verified by calibrated seat-of-the-pants!

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post #9 of 10 Old 03-09-2015, 10:02 PM
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This is 'Why' back in the late'70's, when drilling Double Disc's for weight savings, we were told to Not Chamfer the freshly drilled holes!
The sharp edge 'cleans' the pads! Ride it. I do, with my rusty 320mm EBC disc.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-10-2015, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normk View Post
Any chance you could compare between the two bikes/pads?
Unlikely; no speaka "apps." No smart phone (just a dumb one).

Further, too many variables (e.g., tire treads, laden weights, and in this case, twin- vs. single-caliper pistons, etc.) to form definitive conclusions, regarding brake system configuration.

I think the pacing parameters for deceleration have, high on the list, the coefficients of friction between tire and riding surface. In my view, after the wheel locks up, deceleration depends entirely upon the force of friction at the tire/riding surface interface.

Might be able to get some stopping distances from specific mph speeds, but again; the presence many variables may skew the data away from valid specific cause-and-effect conclusions.
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