2005 klr.....Help. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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2005 klr.....Help.

Just picked up a 2005 Klr 10,900 miles ( California Bike). Bike ran fine at time of purchase. Trailered bike to its new home in Prescott Az. 5000 ft elevation. Now its really running bad. Bike starts fine, but as soon as i give it some throttle acts like its flooding up to about 3000 rpms. Black smoke coming out exhaust ( not oil). After 3000 rpms runs better but still rough. Thanks in advance for any help with this issue.
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post #2 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 11:16 AM
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Time to take out the carb and clean it up. I just went thru one carb and dropped another . Look for videos on the CV40 carb. Its not a real bad carb to work on. Work in a well ventilated, well lit and clean area.(you don't want to clean it again) A rebuild kit is about $30ttd if you want to be sure of all the jets being clean. The passages are very small. A can of carb cleaner and a air compressor to blow out everything. Can be done in around and hour if you have worked on carbs before. Could be gunk holding the float low and feeding to much fuel.
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post #3 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 03:01 PM
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prescottbob -

Remove the door to the airbox (it's on the right side just below the front half of the seat) and check the condition of the air filter. Make sure it is nice and clean. If it is not pretty much a nice boutter-yellow color, it's dirty. If it is red, it is an aftermarket Uni filter. If it says "K&N" on it, do this:


If it is dirty, clean it, oil it, and check to see how the bike runs.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 04-03-2015 at 03:08 PM.
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post #4 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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THANKS for the replies guys. Tom filter looks good (stock). I get the whole K&N thing lol .Have a side by side, and had a sandrail a few years ago. I tried running with the filter cover off not much change. I did pour some seafoam in the tank . The bike was non/op for the last few years. Owner said he ran it a least once a month. Not sure if I want to tackle a carb rebuild, for me its better left to a professional. Again thanks for the replies.......Bob
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post #5 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 04:08 PM
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Bob -

Give the Seafoam a chance to do it's thing. That stuff can work miracles. If you can, put on your best flip flops, ball cap, and tank top and ride the thing gently around the block for a half hour or so, then let it sit. Rinse, lather, repeat.

If the Seafoam doesn't fix it don't give up on it. The carb is really pretty easy to work on. There is a series of videos on rebuilding it that people say is pretty good. One commentor said the narrator sounded like Bob Ross, but I happen to know he's a very handsome fellow.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #6 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 04:32 PM
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A KLR that runs well at low elevation (California coast?) should also be able to run well at 5,000 feet. Mine both run well from 12 feet to 12,000 feet with no changes to the carburetor.

The posters above are thinking the black smoke is caused by too little air or too much gas. It is easiest to check the air filter first.

Next I would check the fuel level in the float bowl. Get a foot of clear (mine has a yellowish tint) 3/16" flexible fuel line from an auto parts store. Connect it to the nipple on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Needle nose pliers help a lot. Curl it up along the side of the float bowl against the joint where the bowl attaches to the bottom of the carburetor so the end is a couple of inches or more above the joint. Duct tape will help keep it in place. Back out the stop screw in the nipple (3mm hex key) so the fuel can flow into the tube.

Start the engine and let it idle. Be ready to hit the kill switch in case you got 1/4" tube which comes loose instead of 3/16". Hold the bike up level and compare the fuel level in the tube to the bowl joint. It should be +- 1mm.

Screw the stop screw in gently before removing the tube.

Last edited by GoMotor; 04-03-2015 at 04:34 PM.
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post #7 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Gomotor, just checked the float bowl, looks to be on the money....THANKS

Tom, I will be on and off it all weekend to try and let the seafoam do its magic.....THANKS
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post #8 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prescottbob View Post
......................... Not sure if I want to tackle a carb rebuild, .................Bob
Carb rebuild sounds exotic/high tech/difficult while carb cleaning sounds like washing the bowl you ate your cereal from this morning.

So, think about cleaning not rebuilding. The cleaning part is easier than getting it off the bike. To get it off you have to:

Remove one screw holding the throttle cables to the carb
Remove two hose clamps from the rubber mounting boots
Pull the rubber vacuum hose from the petcock
Pull the rubber fuel line from the petcock
Pull the rubber vent line from the carb
Unscrew the choke/enricher from the left side of the carb. 45 degree bent needle nose pliers make this easy too.
Pull the carburetor out of its mounting boots

Here is how https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTdtrcPfb8k
It helps if you raise the back of the tank, but you don't have to remove it.

Take the four screws off the float bowl and look at the jets inside.
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post #9 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prescottbob View Post
Just picked up a 2005 Klr 10,900 miles ( California Bike). Bike ran fine at time of purchase. Trailered bike to its new home in Prescott Az. 5000 ft elevation. Now its really running bad. Bike starts fine, but as soon as i give it some throttle acts like its flooding up to about 3000 rpms. Black smoke coming out exhaust ( not oil). After 3000 rpms runs better but still rough. Thanks in advance for any help with this issue.
I am going to ask, if you Know which Way the cold start enrichment lever is (choke) is ON or OFF?
Pull it LEFT for cold start, <70f., leave it all the way to the RIGHT for hot engine/ RUN position!
If the 'Enrichment' lever is pulled to the left, the cold start system is ON! Rich run! Rev it up, runs sort of OK!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 40 Old 04-03-2015, 11:56 PM
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Some other suggestions and a question:
Did you have the bike running nicely before you loaded and hauled it home? If not, I'd drain the gasoline and (this time only) dump some new, direct from the pump, premium gas with some Seafoam into the tank. Don't go heavy on the Seafoam as it has been reported to foul the spark plug if done to great excess. The reason I suggest premium, despite that the engine doesn't need the octane rating, is to do away with the alcohol while sorting the carb.

Likely most of us are thinking that the shaking around on the drive flooded the intake with fuel. It may be that the vacuum petcock isn't shutting off.

Before pulling the carb apart, have a look at the petcock (fuel valve on the bottom of the tank) it has two hoses leading off. The one closest to the right side of the bike has the hose which leads toward the rear of the carburetor while the one closer to the left side of the bike leads to a nipple on the front of the carb, close to the cylinder head.

Pull the two hoses and notice whether fuel leaks out of either one. There should be no fuel at all in the hose on the right nipple. If so the petcock is leaking fuel through the diaphragms which will run fuel directly into the intake and cause the symptoms you describe.

If fuel continues to run from the left hose, the petcock isn't shutting off completely. This usually won't be a problem but combining a leaky petcock with a trailer or truck ride home can shake the carb around enough to cause it to leak fuel intermittently. Again, usually not a big deal but enough times and for long enough and you will have a flooded intake. Check the oil level and see if it's over the top of the sight glass. If so the crankcase is full of gas and you need to change the oil and filter.

If that's the case, an oil change and a short ride may sort it out. If that doesn't do the trick, check the petcock again for fuel continuing to run and if so, you may wish to plug the petcock until you can have a kit installed.

I'd look at the other solutions after these.

If it's Paul's suggestion (PD Westman), don't admit that and claim it wasn't the choke and simply sorted itself out. ;-) Don't feel bad as we all do that. It keeps him on his toes if he thinks he misses the mark once in a while. :-)
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