Half a Clutch Pull - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 06-16-2008, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Half a Clutch Pull

Riding up to Austin on Saturday (60 miles), when i let off the clutch to slow down for traffic coming into Austin, the clutch all of the sudden gave me no resistance for the first half to 2/3's of the pull then the last part of teh pull feels like normal. When i let the clutch out, it still engages just fine, and when I pull it in the disengages completely. It was very hot, and the temp gauge was getting close to the redline (i think i have a bad fan relay too, it works intermittantly). Did I maybe get the clutch too hot? is it just close to failing? Or could it be something else?
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-16-2008, 01:58 PM
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Just wondering if the lever went back to 'normal' after cooling off. Would make a difference in the diagnosis
Jim

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post #3 of 13 Old 06-16-2008, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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No that was my first thought, but it still has the slack in it. It goes out to about half way , then because the lever is pointed down kind of falls back to all the way out after a second or two.
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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I'm an idiot, the first thing i looked at was the clutch cable, and i looked at it thinking it was tightened all the way, so I ruled that out. I was backwards, it had vibrated pretty much all the way loose. Problem solved, now i just need to figure out the Fan problem.
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 09:40 AM
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The system is fused. If the fuse is good, check the fan switch (coolant sensor). It's at the bottom of the radiator. Pull the wire and with the ignition on ground the wire. If the fan comes on, it's the sensor.

If the fan doesn't come on, check that there's voltage present at the sensor when the ignition is on. If there is no voltage, then check the relay. There should be juice from the battery to the relay. If there is and there is no current at the sensor wire (with the ign on) then the relay is suspect. With the sensor wire grounded, check for juice at the output to the fan motor (or in the fan motor harness). If no current, then the relay is probably it. If the relay is passing current thru, then it's most llikely the fan motor.

Everything except the sensor is pretty much under the tank. Good reason to start with the sensor (fan switch).

Start slow. Do it in steps. And think.

Last edited by BIGIRON; 06-17-2008 at 10:04 AM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGIRON View Post
Start slow. And think.
Theres my first problem, I'll check this out when I get home from work.


Edit: Tried grounding the wire from the sensor, and it turns the fan on every time. So I guess I'll be looking for a new sensor tomorrow at the dealer, unless someone knows a better source>

Last edited by wh4tig0t; 06-17-2008 at 06:48 PM.
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 08:42 PM
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Why not bypass the sensor and use a switch, that way you can engage the fan when in traffic or slow going and keep it off when moving at speed?



Deleted part of post.... A problem was found with the mod I originally posted about using a different sensor.

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Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
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Last edited by DXKLR; 06-17-2008 at 08:47 PM.
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-17-2008, 09:26 PM
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They shouldn't be too expensive and the dealer would be quick and easy (assuming they stock them). I like the switch idea also -- if nothing else just to get by til the backorder sensor arrives......
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-18-2008, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'll rig up a switch of some sort tomorrow atleast as a temporary solution. If its not outrageously expensive at the dealer I'll buy one tho because i would rather just have it come on automatically, as well as continue to be on after I turn the bike off and take the key out without having to monitor it and turn it off my self.

I saw some of the cheap solutions with a Honda accord temp sensor, but they said you had to re thread the part, and that just sounds kind of sketchy, for something that keeps your coolant in. Plus they said it meant the difference between a $50 part at the dealer, or a $23 part at autozone, I'd say its worth $27 to do it right.
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-18-2008, 05:48 AM
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That Honda mod was part of my previous post above, but if you read on, they found that the Honda sensor over time would drain your battery due to difference in how the sensor works.

2008 DL650 VStrom Yellow and Black
Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
Looking to get back into KLR's sometime soon.

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