Doohickey Torqur Spec - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-13-2015, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Doohickey Torqur Spec

Performed an oil change and (aftermarket) doohickey adjustment and after a short ride the doohickey adjustment bolt was loose. tightened the bolt and engine was not happy when I restarted it. Pulled it down and everything looks OK. Ordered new rotor bolt, torsion spring and gaskets. Unable to find torque spec. for doohickey bolt. Anybody have the spec.? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-13-2015, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Think I found it, 78 in./lbs.
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-13-2015, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davo1776 View Post
Think I found it, 78 in./lbs.
davo1776,
I'll recommend , that you remove the plastic plugs on the LH engine case and turn the engine to Top Dead Center "T" mark, before making any Doo-Hickey Adjustment!

This gets the chain slack on the proper side of things and the weights on the proper side of things.

Yeah, I know it 'ain't' in the book, just use a little common sense! It ain't rocket science, either!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-14-2015, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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That is a great point. Thanks!
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-14-2015, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
This gets the chain slack on the proper side of things and the weights on the proper side of things.
I also wonder if temperature (hot engine/cold engine) has any significant effect on spring tension / coomponant size and fit....

2013 KLR650
1994 YZ250
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-14-2015, 11:49 AM
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I can't see any reason that temperature would affect doohickey adjustment. As a general rule it is best to have the engine near room temperature before removing aluminum components but other than cylinder head, main bearing bridge and similar components, I've not heard of any recommendations to that effect in any motorcycle engines. Someone would need to be quite quick to have the cylinder head off a KLR before the engine cooled significantly.



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Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
I also wonder if temperature (hot engine/cold engine) has any significant effect on spring tension / coomponant size and fit....
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-14-2015, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting point about the temperature of the engine. I know that Harley chain adjustments for the primary have a cold and a hot adjustment. Unlike a chain on a chain saw that has more slack when it is hot, Harley primary chains get tighter because of the engine case expansion. I have often wondered if this might be an issue on the KLR. I have always adjusted mine after an oil change which means the engine cases are still quite warm. I would love to do away with the balancers completely. I know it is being done on some of the Flat Track Kawi twins.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-14-2015, 08:01 PM
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The cam chain is quite long in proportion. IMO, the best practice is to follow Paul's recommendation for adjustment of the balancer chain (Doohickey).The cam chain adjustment is automatic so not a concern.

Someone reported removal of the balancer weights many years ago so maybe someone can recall details. All I can recall is that the engine shook like blazes according to the report.
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