Clutch broken? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 1Likes
  • 1 Post By klr4evr
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
Clutch broken?

Hi all,

I was riding and pulled in the clutch to shift, and all of a sudden I felt something give and suddenly there was no tension on the lever. I looked down on the crankcase where the cable comes out and the clutch unit pivots inside the case, and noticed that the cable had snapped. Easy fix I thought.

But then I noticed that the clutch assembly pivoted easily without tension as well, and I could pull the little cylinder up and out of the case. Can anyone help me with what's going on? How much could something like this cost to fix at a shop? I'd love to do it myself but I'm too busy with med school and also I have no way of getting the bike back to my place so I need to have the shop tow it.

Any insight appreciated!!
Cheers
Kaseman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
Here is what I was describing above:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image_1430955380471.jpg (225.3 KB, 18 views)
Kaseman is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 08:10 PM
Moderator
 
klr4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Sask , Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,560
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to klr4evr
That's normal. Replace your cable and you'll be good to go.
Tom Schmitz likes this.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

<--- Please fill in the 'Location' on your personal profile page. User CP/Edit Your Details

This information makes it much easier for other members to answer/comment on your posts.
klr4evr is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 08:14 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 6,488
Kaseman,
The lower lever points towards the carb, I say this is 12:00 position, for this part.
It protrudes only, about 3/16" of an inch above the oil seal when properly engaged. YES, you can turn it to 9:00 and pull it completely out! But when properly engaged, you'd need a cresent wrench on the lever or a cable to the hand lever to rotate it Clock -wise!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
pdwestman is online now  
post #5 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
So it's normal for there to be no pivoting tension on the black 'rod' once the cable snaps? Is that because it's disengaged? How would I re engage it before hooking up a new cable?

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the willingness to help I've encountered on this forum over the years.
Kaseman is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 08:54 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,084
Garage
Kaseman -

Look at this video at 8:20 to see how the lever goes in and gets positioned correctly.

To remove the broken cable you need to remove the bolt that holds the cable in place just forward of that lever. This is the number two PITA bolt on the KLR (number one being the back bolt on t he cam chain tensioner).

Once that's out, remove the broken cable and route the new cable into place, first putting the drum end of the cable into the handle bar clutch lever..

Then get the clutch actuating lever positioned as you have it in your picture. Rotate if forward and hook the ball of the cable onto the actuating lever clevis.

With that done, insert the lever back into the case as shown in the video at 8:20.

Now, with one hand, hold the cable down in place so that the cable clamp is over the hole in the case. With your other hand, reach over the header pipe and hold the bolt in place so that it is directly over the threaded hole. With your third hand, use your 10mm socket to tighten the bolt. Now you know why it is the number two PITA bolt.

It can be hard the first 100 times you do it, but you'll get the hang of it. Be careful, though, as it is a short bolt and easy to cross thread becasue of the awkward placement.

If it feels tight, back off and start over; you don't want to strip the threads because you'll have to remove the case, throw it across the garage, then retrieve it and put a stud in the case in lieu of a bolt (which ain't a bad idea and might be Norm's 106th mod). No, you may not ask how I came to know this...

Tom

Tom [email protected]

“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 05-06-2015, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
Thanks Tom!!
Kaseman is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 05-07-2015, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
Would it be ok for me to try to ride the bike home in its current state? Or would it damage the bike. I live in a rural area with minimal traffic. And I've shifted without the clutch before. I'm just not sure if something inside has changed which would prevent me from being able to do this.

How should I orient the clutch 'rod' if I attempt to do this?

Thanks
Kaseman is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 05-07-2015, 06:43 AM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,260
The position of the clutch release rod makes no difference when the cable is broken. You can rotate it so the lever faces rearward and then pull it up out of the case. You will see it has a notch down near the bottom. That notch hooks the head of a pin that pulls the throwout bearing and disengages the clutch when the rod is rotated.

To put it back in drop it down with the arm pointing rearward. Raise it up 1/8 inch from bottomed out and rotate it so the arm is pointing straight at the case. That 1/8 inch lift is important for the notch to hook the head of the pin.

You can ride it as you normally wold when not using the clutch. A new cable is all you need.
GoMotor is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 05-07-2015, 10:26 AM
4th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,481
Warm the engine up enough that it runs smoothy, pull the clutch lever back to operate the lever safety switch, put the transmission in first gear and start the engine. The bike will lurch forward and then easily gain speed. After that shifting is just as simple without using the clutch except that it requires a bit more attention to coordination.

When stopping, put the transmission into neutral and bring the bike to a stop. Starting out again, kill switch to stop the engine, kill switch back on, transmission into first and stab the starter. I've driven bikes for quite long distances in this manner although it's not ideal in heavy stop and go city.

It might be doing yourself a favor to buy a second clutch cable and cover the ends. Route it beside the one you're using and zip tie. That way it's quick to switch. KLR goes through more clutch cables than many bikes.

A cable which I prefer is: Clutch cable Motion Pro 306-5029, Yamaha 5X6-26341-00

It's heavier and, IMO, smoother than the stock KLR cable but requires removing the plate from one end. NOt a big deal but more than just swapping in a new one.
Normk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
broken tripometer BANHAN 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 3 12-29-2014 12:15 AM
Clutch Removal / Clutch Holder cawoodm 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 28 04-14-2012 11:54 PM
broken clutch hand Irish07 KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 10 09-16-2008 09:36 PM
Broken dohicky josbek 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 3 03-05-2007 08:20 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome