Broken Crank Case at oil drain - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-18-2015, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Broken Crank Case at oil drain

When I took my drain plug out of my '06 KLR a couple of pieces of metal from the flange seat for the drain plug came with it. Now I have a tooth size gap of missing metal from around my drain plug - which is stripped. Looking for the best fix that I can do myself. I am leaning towards a piggyback drain plug and JB weld in the gap. Later I can either replace the crank case ($$) or drill a new drain hole and tap it out while I seal the stripped one shut.
Who else has had this issue? What did you do? How well did it work?
Open to ideas. Please and thanks.
I'll post some pictures later.
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-18-2015, 03:09 PM
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Some images might be useful for meaningful recommendations, IMHO.

From the description in words, may be a candidate for welding, drilling and tapping.

Here's hoping something short of splitting the cases and replacing them will work.

EDIT: Best case: Something from this source comprises your solution:

http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_p...ize_repair.htm

Last edited by Damocles; 05-18-2015 at 03:13 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-18-2015, 05:46 PM
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Stripped drain plugs and cracked/messed up casings by the drain plug seem to be a pretty common malady. Here's a bunch of threads for you to check out if you would like, you might see something similar to yours here.
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-18-2015, 08:47 PM
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OK, Who forgot the gasket on the last oil change? (Just kidding, doesn't matter.)

I'll suggest / endorse J-B Weld Original slow curing epoxy and an oversize drain plug (14mm). From local auto parts stores.

Preparation and 100% Degreasing is the key to success here. Lean the bike to the right and triple clean the area!!!!!

Put a common cork in the hole! Use masking tape and J-B Weld to build up the broken area, may take several layers, roughing/re-contouring between layers.

Remove the cork, flatten the surface, slowly tap to larger size. I used an actual tap and an actual 14mm drain plug. Not my bike thankfully!

Sorry, I still can't do pics! Plan on taking 2 or 3 days, with curing time!

Welding usually burns the sealant out of the center seam of the cases. Can be re-sealed with J-B Weld smeared over the center seam. I've re-sealed a couple, after others welded and tapped!

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post #5 of 6 Old 05-19-2015, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Remove the cork, flatten the surface, slowly tap to larger size. I used an actual tap and an actual 14mm drain plug. Not my bike thankfully!

Sorry, I still can't do pics! Plan on taking 2 or 3 days, with curing time!

Welding usually burns the sealant out of the center seam of the cases. Can be re-sealed with J-B Weld smeared over the center seam. I've re-sealed a couple, after others welded and tapped!
Good point on re-sealing the case seam after welding!

When going to 14 mm (in contrast to using an oversize 12 mm drain plug), do you not have to DRILL to the 14 mm size and then tap?

Or, is the case soft enough the 14 mm tap enlarges the original 12 mm hole sufficiently?

-------------------------------

A JB Weld build-up might be the best approach; depends, I imagine, on the size of the chunks in the case around the oil drain hole; image(s) would be useful . . .

Last edited by Damocles; 05-19-2015 at 01:53 AM.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-19-2015, 12:20 PM
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Anyone who has not had the cases open on a KLR650 may wish to review the photos which Tom posted under "Joe's crankcase".

I agree with Paul, of course, as have done similar repairs on various crankcases.

FWIW, many/most skid plates don't come back far enough to protect the drain plug and/or the rearmost bolt boss on the bottom of the crankcase.
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