Does my bike have easier access to battery poles? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 08-11-2015, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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Does my bike have easier access to battery poles?

Hey Guys

I bought an Old school KLR650 2005 model from an old guy who cant ride it any more. So I got it for pretty cheap but it was standing around in his yard for a couple of years.

I absolutely love riding it On and Off road since it was actually kitted for total Off road.
It chows allot of oil apparently and its Fan's fuses seem to have blown so I had to replace that...the FAN did not go on for a long time actually and it became really hot the one day idling in traffic. Not sure if I already hurt it a little bit.

Anyway this morning it was standing in the rain but it had a cover on over most of it.
I could not get it to start. Just sounded like a dead battery even though I did ride it the day before. Usually the bike starts with the electronic starter with no problem or hassle. Press it once and it starts.

Now I need to check the battery and I would like to do that without removing the plastic and seat to get to the battery.
The guy who checked out my KLR when I first got it hooked up a multimeter to it and checked the readings without removing anything.
SOO my question really is WHERE does these clips usually sit on a bike? I know one can just hook up a charger on the also but I cant seem to find them.

Second question is...Could the Fan on such an old bike drain current? Since the circuit is intact again?

Thanks and kind regards
Cart
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-11-2015, 04:41 AM
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One of the best places would be the starter relay for + and ground wire to the starter for - . The relay is under the black cover behind the petcock. You said "without removing the plastic" but this one is a single screw.

You can check battery voltage there with the engine running or off. There are many other places to check voltage but being smaller wires they'll have lower voltage if they're carrying any current.

The fan does use current when the bike is off, but only as long as the fan runs. When the switch at the bottom of the radiator turns off the fan, there should be zero current draw.

Last edited by Grinnin; 08-11-2015 at 04:47 AM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-11-2015, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply Grinnin.

Thanks allot for the quick reply!
That sounds right if memory recalls. I will check it out later today.
Is there a way I can see if I have hurt my engine with the over heating?

I am currently using 10W40 oil but I would like to use better oil if anybody can suggest some?
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-11-2015, 07:24 PM
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My fan fuse blew and it got the needle all the way over one day briefly, I turned it off and let it cool down until I could get out of traffic. 50,000 KM later its still going strong so I would not worry too much.

Crash
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-11-2015, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cart_man View Post
Thanks for the quick reply Grinnin.

Thanks allot for the quick reply!
That sounds right if memory recalls. I will check it out later today.
Is there a way I can see if I have hurt my engine with the over heating?

I am currently using 10W40 oil but I would like to use better oil if anybody can suggest some?
Cart_man,
The 'overheating' was probably minor, as Crashoverride suggests.

As to engine oil, I'll suggest Genuine Kawasaki Petroleum 10W40 Motorcycle Oil, Part #K61021-202A.
As used here, http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-mo...is-thread.html

I would love to see a sample of your used oil in that thread! Over-heated and all, tell the Lab that you are concerned. $28 USD for some piece of mind.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-11-2015, 11:54 PM
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The fan keeps the coolant from boiling. If fan fails the coolant will boil away to protect the engine. When coolant is gone then the engine cooks. So, if you didn't boil away all the coolant in the radiator, you didn't hurt the engine.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-12-2015, 06:01 PM
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Never thought of it like that before, thanks.


Crash
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-12-2015, 06:17 PM
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As far as checking your battery goes, I used the wire/terminal thing that came with my Battery Tender to permanently attach to the battery posts and run out under the side fairing. That way I can check/charge my battery or use my air compressor without removing the seat even though I don't have my seat bolts in, anyway. It's hard to get a couple of alligator clamps on the battery terminals and the pigtail thing alleviates that problem for me.

I'm assuming you could buy such a "pigtail" thing on its own, but don't know what it's called or where you could get one. I'm sure somebody else on here will know what I can talk about and provide you with a reference.



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post #9 of 13 Old 08-12-2015, 06:23 PM
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Just get one of these and don't worry about it. Deka ETX15L Power Sports AGM Battery

If you have a lead acid you are going to want to check the levels and such so just take the 5 min and pop the sides and seat off

Crash
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-13-2015, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planalp View Post
I'm assuming you could buy such a "pigtail" thing on its own, but don't know what it's called or where you could get one. I'm sure somebody else on here
The Deltran Battery Tender connector is a standard SAE 2-pin connector. Most Auto-parts places will have them. Pay attention to polarity (+ and - ). When correctly installed the battery's + will be the female side so it's harder to short it out. But it's possible to install one backwards. Battery Tender already has color-coded ring terminals on theirs.
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