choke questions - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 15 Old 08-14-2015, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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choke questions

Ok so thia may be a very dumb question, but my 2005 klr650 has always started with me not having to touch the choke. I bought it anout a month ago. The ppastic peice which is notorious for breaking, is indeed broken. Any markings are well worn away as this bike has been well used but not abused. The lever switch is to the right side since i bought it. This morning i went to start it but it had a few huccups being in the 60s for the first time since i have owned it. I went to use the choke (push lever to the left) and it would not start, so i put it back to the right and got it started. Just for kicks i pushed it back to the left while running after idling for about 5-6 minutes and reading in the temp gauge so it was well warm enough. The thing died after a quick surge in rpm and about 2 seconds of rough idle. So my question is since i have never owned a lever type choke always plunger style, which way is off and on and if it dies with the choke off, what could it be? It never stalls or anything while riding it.
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-14-2015, 07:50 AM
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I don't know what's broken on yours so I'll include more orientation here.

The "choke" lever should be under the handlebar and pushing the lever to the left should pull on the cable. That turns on the "enricher circuit" (even though it's labeled "choke" it's not really although they both help with cold starting).

Once the bike is running fine, turning on the enricher can make the mixture too rich for idling.

Off is lever to the right with the inner cable all inside the cable sheathing.

On is lever to the left with some of the inner cable pulled out of the cable sheathing.

What you described was the engine dying with the choke turned on, but you asked about the engine dying with it turned off. Or maybe I didn't read right but together we can figure this out.

If it really dies when warmed up with the "choke" turned off then your carb is way too lean. Clean the pilot jet and uncover the idle mixture screw (just above the starter motor) and enrich the idle mixture.
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-14-2015, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply, ok so now hat the dumb question has been answered (thank you) i can easily describe whats happening. I will run just fine no issues with stalling or other wise, and that is with never touching the choke or more accuratley the enricher. I cannot get the bike to start while the enticher is on, nor will the buke continue to run once i put the enricher on
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-14-2015, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Oh and it is broken where the cable comes into the housing.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-15-2015, 11:24 PM
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The black plastic thread in piece which attaches the choke cable to the carb is available as: Carb choke plastic nut- Arctic Cat 5507-025 for about $5.00.

I'm still not clear as to the symptoms. The choke cable pulls the plunger out in order to richen the mixture for starting. If bike will start under cold conditions without the choke then the carb is too rich, which may be due to a number of issues from plugged emulsion passages, wrong pilot jet, too high fuel level, etc.

If it requires the choke to keep running when warm then "what Grinnin said".
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-16-2015, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, the bike will start in any condition without the choke, it just takes a few more pishes of the button when cold
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-16-2015, 08:51 AM
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Besides a replacement plastic cap connecting the "choke" cable to the carburetor, a metal version is available from Stead Engineering. The rubber boot on the cable at the carb helps to seal the system from external air; good idea to snug things down if you can.

The starting enricher ("choke") system acts as a sort of mini-carburetor. When ON, the enricher plunger is pulled from its recess in the carburetor, allowing fuel to enter the venturi; simultaneously, an air passage is uncovered. Thus, the starting enricher system mixes both fuel and air and presents this fuel-rich mixture to the engine for start-up.

After the engine is warm, when idling, a mere jiggling of the "choke" likely will kill the engine.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-16-2015, 01:19 PM
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If your engine will start and idle without the choke when cold, the idle mixture is too rich so you are both wasting fuel and increasing ring and cylinder wear due to fuel washing.

I discourage the use of metal choke fittings because the carb threads are both soft and very fine pitch so easily damaged. From time to time I encounter a bike which has the plastic threads on the choke fitting ("nut") which are damaged due to cross threading but this never damages the carb threads.

For my money, I'd rather replace a $5.00 Arctic Cat fitting #5507-025, than deal with a damaged carb thread. I keep a spare or two on hand which reminds me that we used the last one on Louis' bike.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-16-2015, 06:17 PM
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Haven't cross-threaded my metal choke fitting yet, AFAIK, although I'm certainly capable of doing so. Never thought of a plastic nut as a sacrificial part to prevent thread damage.

With a Chilliwak Tool to unscrew, and to thread the choke cable connection into the carburetor, I'm sure a plastic nut will work just fine.

Used a metal connector on my KLF300 (ATV); having a little trouble with the carb; hmmmmmmm . . .
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-16-2015, 08:41 PM
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That was a great reminder about the choke sucking air when the plastic "nut" is broken. The Gen1 which was here for the cracked sump has making the loudest sucking noise I've heard in a long time. I don't think I've remembered to mention that so your reminder was timely.

Also need to order more of the "nuts". :-)


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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Haven't cross-threaded my metal choke fitting yet, AFAIK, although I'm certainly capable of doing so. Never thought of a plastic nut as a sacrificial part to prevent thread damage.

With a Chilliwak Tool to unscrew, and to thread the choke cable connection into the carburetor, I'm sure a plastic nut will work just fine.

Used a metal connector on my KLF300 (ATV); having a little trouble with the carb; hmmmmmmm . . .
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