Valve Cover Bolt: stripped threads - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
 
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Valve Cover Bolt: stripped threads

I've read a few posts here that caution against torquing the valve cover bolts to the 69 in-lb factory spec. Sadly, I didn't find this until after I stripped the threads in the head, in one location. See attached photo.

So, my question is, does anyone here have some experience with fixing this problem? So far, I've thought about (1) drilling & tapping some new threads, (2) installing a helicoil, or (3) epoxying a stud in the hole, and using a nut instead of a bolt to hold down the valve cover.

Any advice y'all can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by ZiHg; 09-29-2008 at 12:34 AM. Reason: need to attach photo
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post #2 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 08:52 AM
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I would try #2 first then #1 if #2 didn't work. #3 would be a last resort. But others with more expertise should answer too.

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post #3 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 10:18 AM
 
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I think a helicoil would be your best bet. In my job I have dealt with broken and or stripped bolts countless times. Most likey there would not be enough good material to retap any good threads. The epoxy set up may not hold depending on the amount of torque. Using a stud may interfer with getting the valve cover off & on. Let us know how it turns out.
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 06:21 PM
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where are u at? i could get it out.. im a helicopter mechanic, i extract broken fasteners on an almost daily basis.
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 06:27 PM
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i don't recommend drilling and tapping, nor helicoils if you can avoid it. beleive it or not, what works the best i have used it the Grab-it (as seen on tv) you laugh but i have used one (the same one) to extract over 30 fasteners on one helicopter (Corroded floor screws) you tube it... if you havent seen them, sears has the, you just need a reversable cordless drill (preferably with speed control and a high torque low speed setting) i.e. de-walt 18 volt cordless.
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post #6 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 06:29 PM
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getting to it with a drill would be the challenge (without removing motor) I have never even had my KLR's gas tank off. maybe you can get to it that way.
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 07:32 PM
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I second the Grabit. They do work.

As I read the OP, it's not removing the bolt thats the issue- sounds as if it's already stripped the female threads and that's what needs the helicoil. I've not checked out the head/vc assembly, but I would lean toward running a samesize tap into the stripped hole and inserting a stud with JBWeld. Nothing lost if that dosen't work. You can drill for the helicoil just as easy if the stud doesn't hold.
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all the advice thus far. Just to clarify, I don't have a stuck fastener, instead I stripped the female threads that one of the valve cover bolts threads into. I tried to attach a photo, but it didn't seem to work correctly.

Anyway, I'm leaning toward a heli-coil repair at this point. Won't be able to get it done until Friday (my next day off). I'll follow up when I get it fixed.

Sounds like that grab-it tool would be a good investment for the toolbox.
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-29-2008, 09:03 PM
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sorry i miss read. i thought you broke the bolt head off... I agree with iron, stud with JB weld and nut.
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-02-2008, 04:18 PM
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What size helicoil are you using? Yep I have a stripped bolt hole threads in the head. While looking down on the engine - the North East bolt hole.

What size helicoil?
What size drill bit?

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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