Clutch Replacement Parts? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch Replacement Parts?

Hellow there. I've got a 2006 KLR650 with 3k miles on it. I got stuck in some mud a few weeks ago and in my zeal trying to extricate myself from the mud by walking the bike out in first gear, I completely and utterly smoked my clutch. Fried it. TOAST! (pics available upon request.

I took everything apart this weekend and I cleaned for hours. It took a lot to get the basket clean. So now I am looking at what parts to order for the rebuild and I was wondering if I could get some help. Here's my list. PLease let me know if I'm missing anything.
1. Factory plates and steels. I'll get these from Ron Ayers probably.
2. GASKET for the clutch cover / side cover. The big one. I imagine I'll get this from Ron Ayers as well unless anyone has any better suggestions. Old one isn't torn, but with the age I figure it's smart to replace it now.
3. Water pump housing gasket. This one tore when I was pulling the water pump off, so it clearly needs replacing. Ron Ayers.
4. Clutch Springs. Old ones have paint or some sort of coating coming off them and they probably got hotter than the handles on the gates of hell when I smoked the clutch, so I figure good to replace. I was going to go with OE from Ron Ayers, but Happy Trails as well as some other folks have claimed the stock springs are a little weak. Suggestions? Thoughts?
5. O-ring that resides INSIDE the water pump impeller.

Am I missing anything? There's that complicated seal / housing thing that the water pump impeller shaft goes through. I've left that alone. Can I just leave that be? No need to replace? Anything else I'm missing?
THANKS MUCH in advance for any guidance.
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 03:35 PM
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I'm not 100% sure on what's all involved with a clutch change but have you considered a Recluse clutch at all? If I was in your situation and I cooked my clutch that is probably what I would look at. All depends on the price comparison but I don't imagine that OEM clutch parts are cheap.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #3 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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I'd never heard of Rekluse. Just did a quick search and that looks to be in the $600 range. Friction plates and steels run about $100 total from Ron Ayers. PLus the cost of gaskets. Honestly, it's not like i'm out racing motocross or something high tech like Rekluse might be in order. I was just stuck in the mud and didn't know when to quit. That's on me. But while I've got it apart, I just want to know what all seals and gaskets and o-rings it's imperative to change before I button it back up.
Thanks much. I appreciate the input.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 04:10 PM
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Looks to me like you got it covered. While you are in there you should clean the oil screen if you haven't done so already. The water pump mechanical seal should be okay. Don't mess with it. If you damage the contact surfaces you'll have a leak.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #5 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah... I cleaned the oil screen already when I cleaned the coffee grounds (clutch fibers) off of EVERYTHING inside there. It was a hideous mess. The oil I drained out of there smelled like barbeque sauce - no lie.
As for "damaging the contact surfaces" on the "water pump mechanical seal", I don't think I have. I was careful removing the side cover. The mechanical seal stayed in place. It looks to be in good condition just from looking at it....what I can see of it. But I have not inspected it closely or removed it.
Thanks for the input.
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 04:37 PM
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Be wary of aftermarket clutch springs; some are, "Extra Heavy Duty." They hold well, but . . . you may need to develop a mighty grip (think, Arnold Schwarzenegger's) to squeeze your clutch lever!

In my view, the OEM KLR650 clutch is rather robust from the factory. Unless you get stuck in the mud again, you may not need any clutch component parts hyped beyond OEM design and manufacture.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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DAMOCLES....
THANK YOU... That's one of the things I really wanted to know. I saw some Barnett springs out there but read that they're like a third beefier (210lbs stock to 280lbs on the Barnetts). And my clutch wrist already hurts at the end of a long day. Eagle Mike sells some after market springs on their site, but I haven't heard back on whether they're stiffer or not.
A friend of mine (the one who winched me out of the mud) suggested I just go back with all OE stuff and that's the direction I am leaning.
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help, fellas. I went ahead and ordered from Ron Ayers. Parts are on their way.

If anyone sees anything I missed, HOLLER! I think Ron Ayers would allow me to add items to my order if I make those updates within the next 24 hours.
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-15-2016, 09:18 PM
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scrabble,
Use some 'emery cloth' on the taper of the Water Pump Shaft to smooth and polish the tapered tip. Use some 'Dielectric' silicone grease to lube the shaft, oil seal AND the water seal for re-assembly. Try to install the clutch cover as perfectly 'straight' as possible while gently fitting WP seal onto the WP shaft.
Use a proper 'low torque value' Torque Wrench.

You could consider drilling a new "dirty oil" inlet hole in the middle of the oil filter cavity and plugging (with epoxy glue) the old hole at the edge of the stamped steel oil filter cap.
This will give your engine 100% oil filtration. The mod may eventually become know as the "pdw oil mod". As shown here,
http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...ya-got-42.html
Primarily post #'s, 413, 415-417, 1st pic of #418 and all of #419.

The crankshaft oil control orifice, PRV mod and banjo bolt mods or replacements can be considered "optional", but the KLR does seem to appreciate them also.
http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...ride-data.html

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-16-2016, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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PDWESTMAN...
Thanks for all the helpful tips. I looked over everything last night. At least one thing stumps me and that's the o-ring INSIDE the impeller itself. I ordered a new little o-ring to go in there, but I cannot begin to imagine how to get that o-ring out of there short of smashing it with a 3 pound sledge. But then I would have other issues. :-) I imagine it's a matter of removing the white thing on the back of the impeller, but it seems pretty snug and happy in there. I wonder if I'm opening a whole messy can of worms trying to disassemble the impeller. The o-ring that's in there appears to be intact. Perhaps I should just leave that little o-ring alone. How important is that on a 10 year, 3k mile bike?

And you're saying to apply / slather that water pump mechanical seal and shaft and everything with dielectric grease? Basically everything except for the impeller itself?

Thanks!
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