1999 klr 650. key is in off position or in my pocket and bike can turn over????? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 6 Old 06-02-2016, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
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1999 klr 650. key is in off position or in my pocket and bike can turn over?????

hi all really enjoy the forums you guys have helped me through many problems. I do have this new problem which I haven't found in the forums. my 1999 klr 650 has constant power to ignition, signal lights, horn I believe brake lights too if I push them without my key in ignition. I cannot figure it out and was hoping the klr community could help me. luke my bike will turn over with key in my pocket. this I believe is draining my battery. there problem has just started. also my neutral light is constantly on if I don't put it in gear even when key is off. please help???
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-02-2016, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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sorry bout the spelling mistakes. should have proofread my phones auto corrects
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-03-2016, 07:34 AM
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Nothing comparable in the trouble shooting section of the service manual on this.

The first think I'd do is disconnect the ignition switch at the connector and see if everything shuts down. Ignition switches do go bad. I had to replace one on an older sports car that I restored once. The biggest culprit is when people put too many keys or other heavy junk on their key chains; all the weight bangs around until the innards of the key cylinder get damaged.
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-03-2016, 09:39 AM
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Somehow, your switch is delivering + 12 VDC from the WHITE wiring harness wire to the BROWN wiring harness wire at all times, when this connection should be broken when the ignition switch is in the OFF position,

You say the engine will turn over without an ignition key; will it START? If so, the switch denies the short of the exciter coil wire to GROUND, the kill mechanism.

Recommend you Google, "KLR650 Wiring Diagram," study the ignition switch connection matrix on the chart, and check each of the colored wires for their respective connections, depending upon switch position. I imagine you'll discover they're honked up.

How to fix 'em? Messing with the ignition switch to repair it seems like an onerous job; a replacement ignition switch (new or used, with key) looks like the way to go. Then, you'll need your existing fuel tank cap/helmet lock key to go with the new ignition key, or change out all locksets.

All this said, your battery won't be drained rapidly; only the neutral light will draw curren (ON A GENERATION 1). Weird that your headlight and tail light aren't on all the time.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-03-2016, 06:57 PM
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I think Damocles has sniffed it out. Especially if it turns over, but does not start. Does it? The white wire from the battery is shorting to the brown wire from the ignition.

I would leave the neutral light on so that if you wiggle a wire and the light goes out, you know you are close to the problem.

First I would remove the headlight fuse with the brown wire on one end to make sure the white wire is not shorting to any lighting wiring and feeding back through the fuse to the brown wire. And make sure there are no loose wires shorting at the fuse holder.

Then I would disconnect the 6 wire connector in the wires from the ignition switch to the main harness. If that kills it, you know there is a short in the switch itself or between the white and brown wires down to the connector or in the connector itself.

If the above fails, I would start unwrapping the harness from that 6 wire connector and following the white wire back to the fuse block looking for a short to the brown wire.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-03-2016, 11:24 PM
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I call that wireless. Don't they have an app for that? LOL
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