Idle Problems - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 22 Old 06-04-2016, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Idle Problems

1995 KLR. I have been lurking around the forum, trying to find info on getting my sons' bike running. This is my first post.

Last year had problems with the petcock, pulled the diaphram and blocked the vacuum coming from the carb. Made a new plate and gasket for the back and reassembled, bike ran fine after that.

Cranked it up this summer, it started and died, no amount of coaxing would get it going again. Used a little starting fluid, the bike fired right up, so per advice in other posts, this means it is in the fuel system.

Followed a link to this video:
(Oops, will not allow me to post a link, I have to have 15 posts first. The link was to a 4 part video by Souperdoo on CV40 rebuild and it was excellent)

So, I pulled the carb and disassembled.
Talk about a mess, it was dirtier inside than out.

Used Pine Sol, soaked overnite, got everything sparkly clean and reassembled. Went by the video step by step and was confident of my build.

My idle needle was reset to the previous setting which I recorded at 1 7/8's turns. Checked the float height, it appeared very close. Reinstalled.
Drained the old gas, flushed out the petcock and lines, hooked up the carb.

The bike fired right up but will not idle. I am also getting some drips from the overflow line on the left side of the carb.

See anything wrong above? I am pretty sure the carb is assembled correctly. I am going to pull the carb one more time to put in a new bowl gasket, don't trust the old one, it should be here in a couple of days. May even take the carb apart again to check for contamination. So that would be a prime time to run the idle screw out a little more if you feel I need it.

Thanks. Gary
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-04-2016, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glmoore0001 View Post
1995 KLR. I have been lurking around the forum, trying to find info on getting my sons' bike running. This is my first post.

Last year had problems with the petcock, pulled the diaphram and blocked the vacuum coming from the carb. Made a new plate and gasket for the back and reassembled, bike ran fine after that.

Cranked it up this summer, it started and died, no amount of coaxing would get it going again. Used a little starting fluid, the bike fired right up, so per advice in other posts, this means it is in the fuel system.

Followed a link to this video:
(Oops, will not allow me to post a link, I have to have 15 posts first. The link was to a 4 part video by Souperdoo on CV40 rebuild and it was excellent)

So, I pulled the carb and disassembled.
Talk about a mess, it was dirtier inside than out.

Used Pine Sol, soaked overnite, got everything sparkly clean and reassembled. Went by the video step by step and was confident of my build.

My idle needle was reset to the previous setting which I recorded at 1 7/8's turns. Checked the float height, it appeared very close. Reinstalled.
Drained the old gas, flushed out the petcock and lines, hooked up the carb.

The bike fired right up but will not idle. I am also getting some drips from the overflow line on the left side of the carb.

See anything wrong above? I am pretty sure the carb is assembled correctly. I am going to pull the carb one more time to put in a new bowl gasket, don't trust the old one, it should be here in a couple of days. May even take the carb apart again to check for contamination. So that would be a prime time to run the idle screw out a little more if you feel I need it.

Thanks. Gary
Gary,
The KLR650 Carburator, Does Not have an "over-flow" stand pipe inside of the float bowl, like a dirt-bike carb or your toilet tank!!

If you have fuel 'coming out' any of the outside passages, it is 'flooding like an SOB.'

I'll suggest that you go back into the carb and use a 'home-made' "Q"-tip and some metal polish to Polish the "float valve seat".
I seldom replace the 'rubber-tipped' float valve needle.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-05-2016, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Gary,
The KLR650 Carburator, Does Not have an "over-flow" stand pipe inside of the float bowl, like a dirt-bike carb or your toilet tank!!
I am referring to the clear tube (white barbed fitting) that runs off the left side of the carb. On this bike, that tube just vents to the air. Is that not correct?
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-05-2016, 08:04 AM
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Sounds like the tube mentioned is the carb float bowl vent/breather, to me. I think gas will flow from this tube only when overflowing mightily from float valve malfunction (as pdwestman suggests), or when the bike is knocked on its side or upside down.

As to no idle, I can only think the idle air passage (tiny hole from the carb inlet to the pilot jet emulsifier) may be clogged, or the pilot mixture gallery (from the pilot jet to the idle mixture screw) might be stopped up. Carb cleaner soak and then compressed air are the only cleaning tools I can think of for these passages; more knowledgeable inmates may share additional approaches.

One possibility to check: Is the idle speed screw (controlled by a spring-loaded knob) set properly?
Quote:
When you set the idle with that big screw on the right side of the carb, what you're doing is covering or uncovering one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, and letting more or less air pass the butterfly.
From, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40."

Last edited by Damocles; 06-06-2016 at 11:58 AM.
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-05-2016, 01:55 PM
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I agree with pdwestman about the float valve leaking.

In addition to Damocles' comments on idle consider this. If you had a small leak in the float valve it would not show up during normal engine load because the engine would be taking fuel at a higher rate than the leak rate and the valve would be open anyway. At idle the leak may be faster than the engine takes for idle and the level in the bowl can rise to the point that it floods the engine at idle and also leaks out the carburetor vent (that clear tube).

If you tested the float level using a clear tube attached to the bowl drain, you might want to do it again. You may see the level slowly climb higher than spec by half an inch or so.
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-06-2016, 11:38 AM
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The idle (speed) screw has nothing to do with the slide. It controls the amount which the throttle butterfly is open in the idle position.

A common cause of flooding, in recent years, is due to build-up of chalky deposits in the needle seat bore and on the "wings" of the needle valve. A wooden skewer and cotton rag will usually remove them but be careful not to nick the seat area.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Sounds like the tube mentioned is the carb float bowl vent/breather, to me. I think gas will flow from this tube only when overflowing mightily from float valve malfunction (as pdwestman suggests), or when the bike is knocked on its side or upside down.

As to no idle, I can only think the idle air passage (tiny hole from the carb inlet to the pilot jet emulsifier) may be clogged, or the pilot mixture gallery (from the pilot jet to the idle mixture screw) might be stopped up. Carb cleaner soak and then compressed air are the only cleaning tools I can think of for these passages; more knowledgeable inmates may share additional approaches.

One possibility to check: Is the idle speed screw (controlled by a spring-loaded knob) set properly? Turning the screw raises or lowers the slide to adjust idle speed, I think.
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-06-2016, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normk View Post
The idle (speed) screw has nothing to do with the slide. It controls the amount which the throttle butterfly is open in the idle position.
I stand corrected: I should have said,
Quote:
When you set the idle with that big screw on the right side of the carb, what you're doing is covering or uncovering one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, and letting more or less air pass the butterfly.
(From CAFOTCVK40.)
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post #8 of 22 Old 06-06-2016, 12:25 PM
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No, you are controlling how far open/how much air gets past, the throttle plate.
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post #9 of 22 Old 06-06-2016, 01:25 PM
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No, you are controlling how far open/how much air gets past, the throttle plate.
Sorry Normk,
Damocles second quoted paragraph is Correct.

The large idle speed screw does control both fuel and air, via the opening angle of the butterfly plate.

It is soooo easy for any and all of us to occasionally "miss-speak".

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 22 Old 06-09-2016, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys

i am going to pull the carb again this weekend. The seal is here for the float bowl, I will disassemble, check the float, the idle seat and will do the tube thing on the float level. I think all the passages are clear, but will check it again anyway.
I am a busy guy, and I might be slow posting, but will report back the results.
Thanks again for the effort!
Gary Moore
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