Help - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 30 Old 09-04-2016, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
Help

I need help guys this is the bolt directly above front sprocket. I accidentally sheered it off while trying to loosen the cables for alternator. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Is it possible to weld? I think it is port that supplies oil to head. I really don't want to tear down the engine to replace the case. Any advice suggestions help please!!!!!!
aaklose is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 01:17 AM
4th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,481
Have you posted a photo? I can't see any.
Normk is offline  
post #3 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 01:51 AM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,605
Garage
That is a banjo bolt. There are three of them; that one provides oil to the transmission.

First off, did you break the bolt or strip out the threads in the case?

If you broke the bolt it should be simple to fix. The bolt already has a hole drilled down the middle of it. Once the head is broken off the remaining piece should be relatively loose in the case. Just take a small easy out and back the broken bolt out. Replace the bolt and the two copper washers and you should be good to go, as long as there is no other damage.

If you stripped the case the repair is a bit more involved. You will need to install a thread repair in the case, either a HeliCoil or a TIME-SERT. You will need to drill out the thread in the case and tap it for the insert, then install the insert. All of this needs to be perfectly square to the face of the case, as the face of the case is a sealing surface.

Tom

edit
p.s. If you are going to be pulling all the banjo bolts (which you should do to get the oil line out of the way) you might consider replacing all three banjo bolts to improve oiling to the cams and transmission and reduce oil burning. This is Paul Westman's mod. Much discussion of it on this forum, but here is the synopsis: http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...mportance.html (items 8, 9 and 10).

Tom [email protected]

The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-05-2016 at 02:01 AM.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
 
post #4 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
I'm having trouble posting a pic
aaklose is offline  
post #5 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
The aluminum case actually sheered off where the bolt is inserted. I was wondering if it's possible to weld or even jb weld..?
aaklose is offline  
post #6 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
Picture of broken port

i tried posting pic but it denied me. I have to make 15 posts before ? Dumb
aaklose is offline  
post #7 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 02:16 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,605
Garage




That is such a clean break that I'm going to suggest that a good welder could fix that in a jiffy.

What would remain would be to address the sealing surface. I think that if that were dressed down fairly well after welding that a copper washer could be JB'd in place or, perhaps, a pair of neoprene washers would seal well enough. We know that the oil pressure at that port is almost nothing, so there's no pressure to worry about.

Hell, a good wad of Bazooka would seal it up...

Tom

Tom [email protected]

The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-05-2016 at 02:22 PM. Reason: iPhone photos choose their own orientation, no matter what I do, in honor of Jobs.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #8 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
Well that's what I was hoping to do rather than replace the entire lower half engine case. The only thing I'm skeptical about is if welded won't it need to be tapped? The shavings getting into the system. I was honestly thinking about just jb welding it in place but I don't know. I know that's not the best fix.
aaklose is offline  
post #9 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 02:52 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,605
Garage
Best to talk to a welder but I'd bet that, since it is such a clean break, it can be welded back with 1/8" penetration and the threads won't be any the worse for it.

You do have the other piece, right? I've been assuming that you do.

The problem with anything less, such as JB, is that if it ever pops off you'll have total oil loss at that port. In 9 seconds the exhaust cam will be dry and just a few seconds after that the exhaust cam journals will be irreparably galled.

Fixing all that will run about $600.

The downstream risk of doing less than welding is too great for me.

Replacing the case means replacing both cases as they are matched sets. It's quite an undertaking. I would bite the bullet and at least talk to a decent welder. If he wanted to charge a benjie to do the job I'd pay it and throw in a case of Bud.

Tom
shinyribs likes this.

Tom [email protected]

The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-05-2016 at 03:36 PM. Reason: sp
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #10 of 30 Old 09-05-2016, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
Yea I have the other piece. Do you think it can be welded on the bike or will the motor need pulled? Once welded you're saying that I should jb weld on top of weld to seal it ? I just recently bought the bike for 2,000 and I don't want to put 1200$ into a motor rebuild, but I don't want to fix it half ass either and have it break on me while riding.
aaklose is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome