If you mean, "starter circuit relay," the component merely authorizes activation of the starter relay (rather inaccurately called the, "solenoid," by some) when safety switch logic criteria is met. (I think the fan relay is an identical part.)
But . . . in your thrust for minimalistness (if that's a word), you can wire around all that stuff and don't even need any clutch switch or sidestand switch . . . or even neutral switch . . . or safety switch diodes . . .
Just run your starter button lead directly to the control voltage connection of the starter relay ("solenoid").
The ignition switch, in fact, uses the same kill mechanism (grounding stator exciter coil leads) as does the kill ("engine stop") switch . . . you can get rid of the kill switch, too.
Respectfully; only a question: What advantage is realized by eliminating switches and wiring?
CAVEAT: Comments apply to Generation 1 (pre-2008 model) KLR650s.
By the way: The link you posted a few posts above to your truncated/abbreviated wiring diagram has EXPIRED, or been removed. Do you have enough posts (15, I think) to post a link or picture now?
Let's try this: http://imgur.com/n0jQoIN.jpg
And, this: http://imgur.com/XoeJnyt.jpg
I may have mentioned before; you have no rear brake light switch in your wiring diagram . . . maybe you want to get rid of that one, too!
Also: No turn signals. Don't think I saw any HIGH/LOW headlight switch. Maybe you're not intending any street riding.
FOR TOM: Notice; Jakob's schematic has a wire feeding + 12 VDC to the CDI unit, ONLY when the starter relay is energized by the starter button . . . hmmmmmmmm; hmmmmmmmm.
Also, Tom: When you test your kickstart mod, whatever configuration the bike might be in (Generation 1 or 2 ignition); REMOVE the spark plug (enabling high cranking rpm) and stomp down hard on the starter lever; check to see if you get any spark, before you restore the spark plug and try to start it. (Just a suggestion; you may have tried this already.)