chopped wiring diagram - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 12 Old 09-20-2016, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Rotterdam, Netherlands
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chopped wiring diagram

Hey just thought i'd share my wiring plan, maybe get a second pair of eyes on it
did i mess something up?
its a chopped one, down to the bares for what i need it to do

und hello from holland
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-20-2016, 08:56 AM
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For US Generation 1s, too many fuses for lights, "beams;" also, no relay in stock headlight circuit as far as I know.

Front brake light switch shown, but no rear brake light switch.

Understand the wiring diagram is pared down, but . . . engine stop switch, starter circuit relay absent (or I missed them).

Don't know the purpose in the abridged diagram, but . . . I'd think the essential elements of the starting and ignition circuits might be useful, generally.

That said, your exercise in analysis looks like a good vehicle for learning the intricacies of the wiring system.

Your customized addition of the USB connection will be connected to + 12 VDC ALL the time, as shown, perhaps resulting in parasitic battery drain. A better connection: To a BROWN (switched + 12 VDC) wire.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-20-2016, 04:28 PM
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The link I posted above leads to Jakob's wiring plan.

Little viewing, less response.

I'll take advantage of the silence to ask a question: What is the purpose of your minimalist wiring diagrm, Jakob?

You may have all the essentials you need, but without a grasp of your purpose, can't say.

I mentioned some discrepancies with US Generation 1 wiring; questioned constant power for your USB socket; and suggested some elements you might find useful (given my ignorance of your purpose). The KILL MECHANISM, grounding the exciter voltage to the CDI unit, might be worth including--found on both the engine stop switch and the ignition switch.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-21-2016, 04:08 AM
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Does another thread's conclusion/resolution waft away into the ether?

If so, not the first time!
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-12-2017, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Rotterdam, Netherlands
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aaaaand my reply (sorry ive been busy with welding school, got my TIG diplomas now and its been a total playground since by the way!)

so, to answer your questions

i want to make a "as minimal as possible" wiring system on my new old klr. this comes from my love for choppers and i want to see if i can transfer that minimalistic philosophy onto my new adventure-enabler
im rebuilding everything so also the wiring harness. i love a clean look and bare minimals

so no killswitch, i figured the keyswitch does the same and is on the handlebars anyway, i will route that to the cdi

the usb charger has a little on/off button on it so i hope it will not drain. also this way i can charge my phone overnight when im sleeping in the tent in the mountains (did this before, dont wanna leave the bike with keys in it, and contact on)

i read somewhere that the starter relay is just for "not being able to start in a gear"
is this right? if so, this is an function i dont want, ill hold the clutch when i start, thats good enough for me
because the ignition key switch decides if there is "power" or "no power" right?

well, thanks for the tips

heres two pics
random progress update:
updated wiring diagram:

Last edited by klr4evr; 01-13-2017 at 07:40 PM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-12-2017, 04:35 PM
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If you mean, "starter circuit relay," the component merely authorizes activation of the starter relay (rather inaccurately called the, "solenoid," by some) when safety switch logic criteria is met. (I think the fan relay is an identical part.)

But . . . in your thrust for minimalistness (if that's a word), you can wire around all that stuff and don't even need any clutch switch or sidestand switch . . . or even neutral switch . . . or safety switch diodes . . .

Just run your starter button lead directly to the control voltage connection of the starter relay ("solenoid").

The ignition switch, in fact, uses the same kill mechanism (grounding stator exciter coil leads) as does the kill ("engine stop") switch . . . you can get rid of the kill switch, too.

Respectfully; only a question: What advantage is realized by eliminating switches and wiring?

CAVEAT: Comments apply to Generation 1 (pre-2008 model) KLR650s.

By the way: The link you posted a few posts above to your truncated/abbreviated wiring diagram has EXPIRED, or been removed. Do you have enough posts (15, I think) to post a link or picture now?

Let's try this:

And, this:

I may have mentioned before; you have no rear brake light switch in your wiring diagram . . . maybe you want to get rid of that one, too!

Also: No turn signals. Don't think I saw any HIGH/LOW headlight switch. Maybe you're not intending any street riding.

FOR TOM: Notice; Jakob's schematic has a wire feeding + 12 VDC to the CDI unit, ONLY when the starter relay is energized by the starter button . . . hmmmmmmmm; hmmmmmmmm.

Also, Tom: When you test your kickstart mod, whatever configuration the bike might be in (Generation 1 or 2 ignition); REMOVE the spark plug (enabling high cranking rpm) and stomp down hard on the starter lever; check to see if you get any spark, before you restore the spark plug and try to start it. (Just a suggestion; you may have tried this already.)

Last edited by Damocles; 01-12-2017 at 05:14 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-12-2017, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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the result of this ambitious need to eliminate all this stuff is... clean handlebars (i have two buttons on it: starter button and highbeams, thats it)
that and the 2 wires for the frontbrake switch is basiclly it for electrics on the bars

also the new wiring harness will be tiny and easy to maintain/troubleshoot if ever needed

took the rear brake lightswitch off beacuse its just so bulky and "right there" on the side...
i only use the rearbrake for assisting in the frontbrake action, so already a brake light will shine

and if i ever do use the rear brake only, its coming down a mountain, offroad, and dont need a brake light shining in that case

i guess im really a "can i get away with it? lets find out"-kind of guy

do the new pics work?

when everythings blasted, powdercoated and put-together i can post some pics
those will hopefully explain my choices in design an fabrication
if not, ill love it anyway
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-12-2017, 06:28 PM
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You show no high-beam switch; in most of the civilized world, a rear brake light switch appears as a necessary safety feature.

Not to be pedantic, but . . . what is the advantage of a "clean" handlebar; conversely, the disadvantage of handlebar switchgear?

Click on the links I posted above and you can see your pictures; you won't be able to post images 'til you reach 15 posts; soon, I hope!

Best wishes.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-12-2017, 08:07 PM
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The wiring diagram looks functional.

Re the Red/Black wire, "grounden of niet?"...


It needs to see ground, normally through satisfied safety circuits.

Damocles, re the Yellow/Black wire, am I missing something, or is that not essentially how the stock Y/R and Y/Bl work? That is, in the stock set-up the Y/R goes to the Starter Circuit Relay providing B+, and the Y/Bl comes off the Starter Relay providing B+ at the CDI only during starting.

Jakob, what program are you using to draw the schematic? I use TinyCad, but wish it would do colored wires.


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post #10 of 12 Old 01-12-2017, 09:52 PM
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I'd want the brake light to come on with the rear brake. If you're sitting at a light you may just want to use the rear brake. Your nuts could itch and you might need that hand.

There isn't a whole lot of wiring on the KLR that I'd consider useless. Stripping the bike down to its underwear isn't going to take off much.

“Take the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.” Hitchens
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