M1030B1 restoration in Oregon - Page 13 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #121 of 128 Old 04-06-2020, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Texas
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Nothing really fancy today. I got the Deka ETX-15L. Itís a AGM battery that I use in my bike and all of the bikes I restore. Itís only about $75 on Amazon. I also replaced all of the fuses. In the main I use 20 and 15. I know it calls for a 10 but sometimes when you switch the headlight from low to high it blows the fuse. Ití not really an issue with a 15. I also changed out the fan fuse with a 15 and put a spare in there. Just waiting on some of the headlight bracket hardware to hook up everything on the front end and a doohickey kit from Eagle Mike. Then Iíll be ready to fire it up.
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post #122 of 128 Old 04-07-2020, 07:25 AM
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My neck hurts from looking at all your pics


Rex
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post #123 of 128 Old 04-19-2020, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Decided to get the doohickey (balancer chain adjuster lever) done today. The stock spring and lever were all in one piece and still hooked up. I used the Eagle Mike lever, torsion spring, new rotor bolt, and a new inner and outer gasket. Took about 3 hours while taking my time. I also refilled the oil, installed the foot pegs with new IMS springs (always a10 minute fight). The Marines had the upgraded IMS pro series foot pegs. Got the toe shifter on and the front sprocket cover. Tomorrow Iíll get the lower engine mount on, front skid plate, and Marine specific rear metal skid plate on.
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post #124 of 128 Old 04-20-2020, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Texas
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Was working on my bike today completing the doohickey, oil change, replaced oil filter, and installed some foot peg lowering brackets I found in my stash from JNS engineering. After that I installed the USMC specific rear skid plate, OEM front skid plate, and USMC specific lower brush guard. It was really a pain in the ass to get everything lined up.
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post #125 of 128 Old 04-20-2020, 08:21 PM
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Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnny13 View Post
It was really a pain in the ass to get everything lined up.
Thats totally Normal for aftermarket, add-on parts!

I'll suggest that you should use some home-made 1/4" thick rubber donut holes to space the aluminum skid plate DOWN enough to actually protect the drain plug.

And hold your Phone Side-ways, so we don't have to hold our heads side-ways!!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #126 of 128 Old 04-20-2020, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Thats totally Normal for aftermarket, add-on parts!

I'll suggest that you should use some home-made 1/4" thick rubber donut holes to space the aluminum skid plate DOWN enough to actually protect the drain plug.

And hold your Phone Side-ways, so we don't have to hold our heads side-ways!!
Itís hard to tell from the picture but the drain plug is recessed in the skid plate. No way thatís getting hit. Sorry about the pics. Iíve post these on other forums as well and they always turn out the correct side up.
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post #127 of 128 Old 05-12-2020, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Started hooking up the front wiring and gauges. Once the headlight was plugged in the headlight and taillight came on without the key even in or turned to on. Seems like thereís a big electrical wiring issue. Iíll be working on that this week with a multimeter.
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post #128 of 128 Old 05-17-2020, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Finally got back to the restoration bike today. I’ve been building a few other non-Marine Corps bikes. The electrical had the most issues. Prior to starting Bike 6’s restoration it wouldn't even attempt to start and none of the lights worked.

I finally got the headlight and tail lights to function. I noticed the brake light wasn't coming on. I just swapped out the bulb and problem solved. The rear blackout light, rear blackout light brake light, and front black out light all function.

Some people mistakenly believe that it illuminates (light the regular headlight) so that the rider can use Night Vision to ride. It actually just puts out enough light so that others wearing night vision goggles can see the rider. The rear has a functioning blackout light break light so that those following the rider can see when they are slowing down. See the videos below if your interested in how they function.

https://youtu.be/PTHdXGRAObM
https://youtu.be/LOwjn8Kp2do

Nothing was happening when I hit the start button. I’ve found that the clutch safety switch is usually the issue. Most of the time you can clean the brass connections on the bottom of the switch. I’ve also had to replace one since it was broken. I tested this by making a jumper on the harness side where it plugs in. Then it attempted to crank and it fired no problem. Once I disassembled the switch I noticed that the top clutch metal portion wasn't sticking out as much as it should. Upon disassembly I saw that it was missing the spring. You can see in the picture below how much higher the version with the spring is. Swapped that portion out and now the bike will crank.


I was getting ready to start it up using my testing fuel bottle but the battery didn't have enough juice to really crank it over. I’m charging the battery now and will try again later in the week. Other issues when starting the bike for the first time could be an issue with the carb (I rebuilt it), no spark (I tested and its good), and I moved the choke from the handle bars to the carb itself. I use the Stead Engineering choke. Sometimes the spring is a bit tight.

I also tested the fan by removing the wire that plugs into the lower portion of the radiator and grounding it to the engine block. Then turn the key to “ON” and the fan should kick on.
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Last edited by Johnnny13; 05-17-2020 at 12:44 PM.
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