Bike died today - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 34 Old 11-17-2016, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Bike died today

Was about 3 miles into my ride today when she died at idle. Sounded like someone turned her key off. She was hard to start again and didn't for another 20 min. Finally got her started and limped her home. She died again at idle a few times on the ride home. Now she's in the garage and won't start.

I have a feeling it's a fuel issue. I'm going to check for fuel in the petcock vacuum line tomorrow. Maybe generally clean the carb?

Thanks for your help!

Last edited by telefonica; 11-20-2016 at 04:10 PM.
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post #2 of 34 Old 11-18-2016, 08:37 AM
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Give us some info. What year is it? How many miles? What mods are done? When was the last time you rode it? Did it ever do this before? Does the carb have the factory afr plug (I've had an afr screw vibrate out on a bike)? How old is the gas in the tank? Is it the original spark plug? Does the choke lever have ample play in it? What's the typical idle?
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post #3 of 34 Old 11-18-2016, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry about that! Here's some info.

The bike is brand new to me. The chain had snapped on the previous owner, taking the stator wires with it. He had drained the gas and taken the carb off the bike for cleaning too. It had been sitting apart like that for a year before I took ownership of her. PO claimed that before the chain snapped, everything ran fine and she was his DD.

I replaced the stator wires and chain, put everything back together, put new gas in the tank and she fired right up! I was driving her around to get a sense of her when she died at idle nearly 3 miles into my ride.

She has tons of mods, but nothing performance-wise: stock exhaust, stock air intake, stock 650cc, stock petcock, stock carb. It's a CA model if that helps.

She's a 2007 and has 62k on her. I dunno when the valves were last checked. She backfired a few times on me while trying to restart. I'm not sure if it's because the valves are out of spec or if it was just a rich / lean backfire.

I think I might tear everything apart, clean everything and replace all of the vacuum / fuel lines this weekend.

Also, the battery is literally brand new. Spark plug looked clean as a whistle, too.

Last edited by telefonica; 11-18-2016 at 11:39 AM.
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post #4 of 34 Old 11-19-2016, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, got some work done today. Here's what I found out:
  • The ground on the voltage regulator was open. I tracked it down and connected it to the battery negative. Will check stator and voltage regulator voltages when I get the bike running again. Stator wires all had continuity.
  • Fuel tank vent lines were effed up (CA model). The red line was connected to the top of the evap canister and the blue line was venting to air. Evap canister is fubar anyway and needs replacing.
  • All of my valves are at 0.15mm, so it's time for new exhaust valve shims. I'll order some from eagle mike.
  • Petcock fuel line was wet and vacuum line was bone dry (yay!). Ordered a manual petcock valve anyway.
  • Carb bowl was full of fuel and float seemed to be working properly. Extracted and inspected main jet. Looked perfectly clean. Couldn't extract pilot jet but looked dirty. White specs were everywhere throughout. I'll have to take it off the bike for a better cleaning. I ordered a rebuild kit, too.

I don't have enough posts to link images, follow this url:

I'll have to wait for the valve shims to come in before I can continue diagnosing. Would the incorrectly routed fuel tank lines or the voltage regulator ground cause the bike to die like it did?


Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-19-2016 at 06:51 PM. Reason: added image
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post #5 of 34 Old 11-19-2016, 06:02 PM
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If you're lucky the gas cap isn't venting. Leave it open and take a ride. If it still dies, then you gotta go deeper, but if doesn't you've saved yourself a lot of wondering and figuring. Same thing happened to my old Honda. Very much what you described.

Good luck. And dumping some Seafoam in the gas (half a can) wouldn't hurt anything, and that stuff can work miracles.

Beyond that, stay patient. If it still give you problems the smart guys will help you figure it out.

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post #6 of 34 Old 11-19-2016, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Lockjaw! I'm hoping that's all it is. I'll wait for the shims to come in and give it a try!
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post #7 of 34 Old 11-20-2016, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by telefonica View Post
............................. Would the incorrectly routed fuel tank lines or the voltage regulator ground cause the bike to die like it did?....
The regulator/rectifier has nothing to do with the ignition system, just the power and battery charging system. The spark ignition system power comes from separate coils in the stator and does not pass through the regulator/rectifier. Still, it is good that you fixed the regulator/rectifier ground.
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post #8 of 34 Old 12-10-2016, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I put the new valve shims in and also put two heli-coils on the right side (yay for stripped threads! hahaha). But the bike still didn't start. Turns out, no spark from the plug.

I ran through all of the resistance tests and it looks like I need a new stator coil and cdi, so I'll order those.

Also, how in the heck am I supposed to read this cdi resistance table? For instance, going top to bottom, white to red should be 10 - 55 k-ohm, but going left to right white to red is infinite? WTH?! That doesn't make any sense. It doesn't matter which side the positive or negative is on, an ohm is an ohm, lol.

Still can't post pics, so follow this url for the table:

Last edited by telefonica; 12-10-2016 at 05:41 PM.
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post #9 of 34 Old 12-10-2016, 05:47 PM
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Black box checking usually involves checking inputs with both polarities. There can be 'circuitry' in there that can affect the resistance reading of A-B vs B-A.

For example, if there is a diode on the input, then it would read very high (near infinite) resistance one way, less in the other. If there is a transistor or diode in the midst of the circuitry, then that changes the resistance network, so resistances are different A-B vs B-A.

Does that make sense?

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post #10 of 34 Old 12-10-2016, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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ahh, I got it, that makes more sense now. I was imagining testing a simple resistor. Didn't think of how diodes or other elements could effect the reading. That makes total sense, now. Thanks!
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