Broken Crank Case at Oil Bolt - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 28 Old 11-20-2016, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Broken Crank Case at Oil Bolt

Hey folks,

Bought a new 2007 with only 1500 miles. Was putting my oil bolt back into the crank case after an oil change (first one on the bike, as far as I know), suddenly realized the torque wrench (23 Nm) wasn't tightening anymore.

Ah snap, look what happened to the crank case...



Is my crank case totally scrapped? Anything I can do?

Thanks
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post #2 of 28 Old 11-20-2016, 11:23 PM
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Huh. Do you live anywhere near rocks? That looks like a rider caught the bolt on something and broke off a piece of the crank case. Then placed the bolt back in and got rid of it. Just my thoughts. Either way, I'm sorry for the mess. Hang tight, someone more knowledgeable will probably chime in soon.
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post #3 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 08:47 AM
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Bad luck.

Do a search of the forum. Yours is not the first that it's happened to. Here's a few:

http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-...crankcase.html

http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...oil-drain.html

http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-...rain-plug.html

.

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Last edited by klr4evr; 11-21-2016 at 08:57 AM.
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post #4 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 09:28 AM
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Take comfort, gentle readers!

This time, I shall NOT offer my usual, "Oversize Oil Drain Plug" remedy!



No expertise nor qualification; I'd venture either replacement case half or halves, or the skill of a most knowledgeable and competent multi-metal welder, will be required for repair. Looks well beyond JB Weld capability, to me.

Of no significance now, but . . . did the bike have the OEM plastic skid plate, or a sturdy aftermarket metal one? Certainly, you want the latter, after repair.

Last edited by Damocles; 11-21-2016 at 09:34 AM.
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post #5 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick responses.

I'm not sure if there was damage beforehand. It looked fine to me when I was taking off the bolt the first time...
I believe it just has the OEM skid plate.

Case replacement. That's a bummer
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post #6 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlock12 View Post
Case replacement. That's a bummer
I have not dealt with a KLR drain plug problem but have on other bikes.
Trying epoxy's, thread inserts, oversize plugs and such just leads to a life time of problems and depression every time you need to change oil.
Bit the bullet and do it right!!
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post #7 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 02:27 PM
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Honestly if it was mine I would do the JB weld thing. Lay it on it's side and flush the crap out of it with brake cleaner and acetone. I used a dry lube on the bolt and molded the JB to it. once the JB started to set I gently removed the bolt and covered with cooking spray and reinstalled finger snug. Then use a small ring of rtv when reinstalling the bolt snugly. I got away with this for 10 years on my son's bike.
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post #8 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 08:11 PM
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Do you have the chunk of metal that broke out of there?

Was it leaking any oil when you first got it? Did you ride it at all or just decide to change the oil. Bottom of case looks like it has oil on it right to the back. I usually don't get oil going back that far when I change it so I'm thinking it was leaking. Was there a oil plug gasket?

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #9 of 28 Old 11-21-2016, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlock12 View Post
Hey folks,

Bought a new 2007 with only 1500 miles. Was putting my oil bolt back into the crank case after an oil change (first one on the bike, as far as I know), suddenly realized the torque wrench (23 Nm) wasn't tightening anymore.

Ah snap, look what happened to the crank case...



Is my crank case totally scrapped? Anything I can do?

Thanks
mattlock12,
You forgot the thick aluminum gasket and the aftermarket shallow headed drain plugs don't have fully formed or cut threads to the base of the wrench head!! Which wedges the hole 'wide-open' and then strips IT!

J-B Weld to the rescue. I've done it for friends! I re-tapped the drain hole to 14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch AFTER the J-B job to achieve full thread.

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post #10 of 28 Old 11-22-2016, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
mattlock12,
I've done it for friends! I re-tapped the drain hole to 14mm x 1.5mm thread pitch AFTER the J-B job to achieve full thread.
Since the OEM oil plug is 12 mm, you must have drilled to accept a 14 mm plug.

Looks hairy, to me, in the OP's case; enlarging the hole by drilling through metal and JB Weld simultaneously . . . looks like the drill bit would try to "walk" into the epoxy sector of the hole . . .

How did it go, drilling from 12 mm to 14 mm?
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