685 upgrade - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 40 Old 02-10-2009, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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685 upgrade

Well, I broke a land on my piston a few months ago, so I used it as an excuse to make the bike in to a 685.
I really was not expecting much of a power boost, but um, along with the other mods I have done to it, it turned it in to a completely different bike. I had two issues with the mod. First one was that the clutch would not hold, so I put new frictions and performance springs in the clutch assembly which fixed that issue. The other one is that I don't get to hold it wide open in every gear all the time like before. 1/3 to 1/2 throttle is the norm now. To open it up I gotta find good open road. Didn't see that issue coming. I guess everything is a trade off eh?
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post #2 of 40 Old 02-10-2009, 10:38 PM
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what year is your KLR?
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post #3 of 40 Old 02-10-2009, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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It is a 2006
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post #4 of 40 Old 02-10-2009, 11:27 PM
 
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I recently bought a 685 kit and an allready bored to match cylinder because my bike is burning some oil. I was going to wait and see if the thermo-bob and pcv valve stopped or slowed the oil burning but now I am itching to go for it. I have a 10 to 15 thousand mile trip planned for the summer so I may wait until afterwards, any suggestions?
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post #5 of 40 Old 02-11-2009, 03:09 AM
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That's a trade off I can live with! Who did you use to oversize the cylinder?

Gray-haired riders donít get that way from pure luck.

Unknown
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post #6 of 40 Old 02-11-2009, 09:16 AM
 
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The cylinder was allready bored when I bought the kit and cylinder so no way to no who did it. I think before I install it I will have someone check the work and set the ring gaps.
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post #7 of 40 Old 02-11-2009, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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I had Superior Sleeve in Clackamas Oregon do the bore and hone. I went to this shop and talked with the owner, and after listening to him, I was sold. One of the key things he said, was that he waits two hours between hones to allow it to resume room temp before taking measurements, and deciding if and how much more to hone it.
I love it when somebody is super obsessive picky with my equipment. As to suggestions. Make sure you use the stock thickness base gasket to retain stock compression, and be really picky when you dial in the ring gap. Schnitz racing has detailed installation instructions and break in specifics posted on their website. After you have done the upgrade, and it is past the break in period, you are not getting the power you expected, get a hold of me and we can get it there very easily without spending a penny.
Oh, be prepared, the first 150 miles of break in, the thing runs hot, coolant and oil. Plan out some coffee shops to stop at and allow it tool cool down and then hit it again.
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post #8 of 40 Old 02-11-2009, 05:17 PM
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Yeah, if I'm gonna' do it, it will be the 705. My main concern is having someone do it that has never done a KLR cylinder before. Would like to find someone that has done many with a good track record. Being a machinist I could do this but I don't know the tip's, tricks or pitfalls of this particular cylinder.

I do know this, back in the day I was moonlighting overboring Corvair cylinders (jugs) for sandrails. Had to build a torque plate for boring and honing to replicate the distortion in an installed condition. That is to say that the jugs in a relaxed state will not measure correctly, but installed do. Have to wonder if the KLR would be the same.
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post #9 of 40 Old 02-11-2009, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Torque

It would not be the same for the KLR, because the bolts pull on the threads in the crank case. The Cylinder just gets clamped down, that is a big difference. Doing a little research on the 705, it really reduces your head gasket realestate from cylinder to water jacket. I can't say who said it because he asked me not to pin his name to the statement, but it goes like this: "If you cannot bore it to size without sleeving it, then don't do it".
I cannot put his name to the quote, because he is a machinist that also does bore, honing and sleeving. So he does not want to cut in to his own customer base volume LOL.
I would have to say, if I acquired another KLR650, I would order the 685 kit right away. I am absolutely spoiled with the results, and I cannot live without it now.

Last edited by KLRFan; 02-11-2009 at 06:12 PM.
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post #10 of 40 Old 02-11-2009, 06:54 PM
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Well, that's just it, the clamping force causing the distortion. I'm really comparing apples to oranges. The corvair is an air head, much less mass than what is on our water jacketed KLR cylinders.

My first assumption of the 705 sleeve was that it is thicker, not so, I've been told it is the same O.D. as stock except for the portion that enters the crankcase. Much thinner in wall thickness than stock. The 685 is in between with the stock sleeve. The 705 sleeve is touted as being "cryogenically" treated. Harder, less prone to distortion.

I've been on the fence for a while now considering this. The folks that have done the 705 say it is great. Looking from the outside in I can see that if I laid out nearly a thousand bucks what else would I say?

One advantage of either 685 or 705 is the lighter piston, less reciprocating mass equals more power. Is there a lighter stock diameter piston / ring set available?
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