Gen 1 & 2 same oil plug? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 18 Old 02-06-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Gen 1 & 2 same oil plug?

I stripped the oil plug hopefully the plug in my 88 650 and found a low profile magnetic plug for a 2017 and just wondered if it was compatible on my 88
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post #2 of 18 Old 02-06-2017, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyWayne View Post
I stripped the oil plug hopefully the plug in my 88 650 and found a low profile magnetic plug for a 2017 and just wondered if it was compatible on my 88
Major Opps!
http://www.klrforum.com/introduction...kes-avoid.html

I'll do a 2nd post.

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Last edited by pdwestman; 02-06-2017 at 06:50 PM. Reason: see 2nd post
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post #3 of 18 Old 02-06-2017, 06:52 PM
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Search these threads for your solution,
Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum - Search Results for stripped oil drain

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post #4 of 18 Old 02-06-2017, 07:42 PM
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The bolt is steel and the case is aluminum. If any thing strips, it will be the case not the bolt.

Use pdwestman's advice above.
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-06-2017, 08:34 PM
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Try an OVERSIZE oil drain plug; M12. Best if you can match the OEM pitch (Is it 1.5? Ain't sure!).

The oversize plug will tap the threads to a slightly larger diameter, perhaps sealing and offering a permanent fix.

If that doesn't work, you're no worse off than before; then given the opportunity of exploring other solutions (e.g., drill-and-tap for larger plug; use INSERT; etc.).
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-07-2017, 01:21 AM
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I bought my KLR cheap because the oil drain plug hole was stripped and it scared the guy.

I just ran a 1/4" pipe plug (NPT- national pipe thread) through my stripped hole while pouring a steady stream of oil through the engine to flush the chips as I went. No drilling needed as the hole is already the right size for the tap.

Cost me two quarts of oil and a fifty cent pipe plug. You can get pipe plugs with Allen heads so they sit flush with the case once installed. You have to use Teflon tape, but it's easier to source than crush washers anyway. I had the tap on hand, but you can pick those up for about $5.

Not glamorous, but cheap,easy and effective. Just a thought.

Last edited by shinyribs; 02-07-2017 at 01:23 AM.
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-07-2017, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Right on, I'll look into that too. Thanks
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post #8 of 18 Old 02-07-2017, 10:48 AM
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If one over-tightens a tapered 1/4" NPT plug in the thin aluminum case it will Split the case Wide Open.

Use this method with Extreme Caution!

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post #9 of 18 Old 02-07-2017, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinyribs View Post
................. I just ran a 1/4" pipe plug (NPT- national pipe thread) through my stripped hole while pouring a steady stream of oil through the engine to flush the chips as I went. No drilling needed as the hole is already the right size for the tap. ..............
For the non plumbers among us, plumbing pipe sizes go by the nominal inside diameter. So, 1/4" iron pipe is approximately 1/4" inside diameter and approximately 1/8" wall thickness giving approximately 1/2" outside diameter.
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-07-2017, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
If one over-tightens a tapered 1/4" NPT plug in the thin aluminum case it will Split the case Wide Open.

Use this method with Extreme Caution!
Very true.

And since the non-tapered , straight thread bolts seem to have quite a reputation for stripping the cases, I'd say use extreme caution with any oil drain plug.

Tighten it enough, not too much. Like any fastener.
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