Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
The automatic tensioners work great. That is why they have been the standard for nearly 40 years.
As to the manual tensioner and the slipper in the Valve Cover. The slipper in the valve cover actually pushes a visible 'bow' in the chain between the cam sprockets.
If you install either an Automatic or Manual chain tensioner Before the Valve cover, the taught chain will hold the cover gasket OFF of the gasket surface.
I believe this error has been the cause of many a stripped thread or broken cover bolt, because people still try to seal the gasket with 'Brute Force'.
So Tensioner on the bench, with its adjuster bolt Re-Tracted. Cams are timed (You did Not disturb the sprocket bolts, did you? If so, Re-torqued?). Cam bearings are Properly Torqued (104 in lb). Install the cam cover and properly torque cover bolts (70 in lb).
Now install the tensioner body, torque bolts 70-80 in lb.
With Finger tips ONLY, turn the manual tensioner bolt in to ZERO.
I may have miss-advised on other thread, Turn the engine over TWO Complete revolutions to again be at TDC Compression stroke. Again ZERO the tensioner with fingers and then snug the locking nut.
If you now wish to remove the valve cover (With MANUAL chain Tensioner) you will see a gentle 'bow' in the cam chain between the sprockets. But if you turn the crank the bow will pull tight. Just push the chain with your thumb and the bow will re-center. Re-install the cover.
If one removes the Center Spring from an Automatic tensioner, one can do the same thing. I only remove the center spring to do a valve tappet adjustment, main tensioner body remains securely bolted, no need to disturb its gasket.
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!
Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting