1998 KLR 650 - cold start problem - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 33 Old 03-03-2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 124
1998 KLR 650 - cold start problem

I can't get my bike started when it is cold unless I drain some fuel from the carb bowl. I stumbled on this while trying to figure out what is wrong with it. I loosen the drain screw and dribble out a little gas and then it will start using the choke.
I do not have a vacuum petcock and always shut the petcock before putting the bike away.
Any idea's????

I have removed and cleaned the carburetor just trying to figure this one out.
Doc279 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 33 Old 03-03-2017, 07:50 PM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,231
Checked/verified FLOAT HEIGHT?

Can be done with a length of clear fuel line without dropping the float bowl; 'specially since you have no vacuum-actuated petcock . . .
Damocles is offline  
post #3 of 33 Old 03-03-2017, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 124
I have not verified the float height. I simply cleaned looked at it and reassembled it.
I checked to make sure that the float opened and closed properly. How does the clear tube method work? Learn me something new! LOL

This bike has been extremely reliable for over 6 years of ownership.
Doc279 is offline  
 
post #4 of 33 Old 03-03-2017, 09:00 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,336
Fresh fuel in the float bowl should always 'light' easier than 3 week or 3 month old fuel.
I'll suggest that you install a permanent drain hose onto the drain nipple and always drain your carb before storage.
Or turn your fuel OFF 4-8 blocks from home.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
pdwestman is offline  
post #5 of 33 Old 03-03-2017, 09:59 PM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,231
Close petcock.

Affix hose to float bowl drain, bend upward past float bowl/carb body junction.

Open petcock.

Note fuel level in clear hose.

Should be right around the same height as float bowl/carb body junction.

Close petcock, close drain screw, remove hose and . . . ride on, if level correct.

If fuel level still too high in float bowl to start bike, as pdwestman says; an expedient work-around is shutting petcock and bleeding down float bowl fuel level by running engine a while before shut-down.

You, "cleaned" your carb?

As in the procedure described in Tom Schmitz's "Carb Overhaul" post videos?

Click here:

http://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech...-overhaul.html

---------------------------

For those with vacuum-activated petcocks . . . apply vacuum to open petcock for performing same float-level measurement procedure described above.

Last edited by Damocles; 03-03-2017 at 10:22 PM.
Damocles is offline  
post #6 of 33 Old 03-04-2017, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 124
Yes I cleaned the carburetor.
I removed it and disassembled the carb. I used spray carb cleaner to clean all the ports and jets and used compressed air to blow out all passages. I did not install a rebuild kit - just cleaned it out and reinstalled it. NO changes were made to the carb settings. I put everything back exactly as it was set - I recorded all adjustments when I took it apart.

Maybe the float needle is sticking? I have a rebuild kit ordered for it now. I did get to take it back apart as I had dropped the needle orifice without knowing it. I found it in the floor after I had reinstalled the carburetor!!!! Damn it!!!! LOL

My KLR has sat for about 8 months unused due to work obligations and travel. I also have a new to me Harley Davidson that has received more attention. The wife loves the Harley and hates to ride the KLR with me.
Doc279 is offline  
post #7 of 33 Old 03-04-2017, 12:20 PM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,231
Check float level?

View Tom's videos?

Just curious!

Not sure what the "float valve orifice" might be, but . . . glad you found it!
Damocles is offline  
post #8 of 33 Old 03-04-2017, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Check float level?

View Tom's videos?

Just curious!

Not sure what the "float valve orifice" might be, but . . . glad you found it!
I have had no time today. I will check the float level with the clear hose as you suggested.
I am waiting on the carb kit to arrive before I open it back up again.

Not a float orifice - the small orifice that the slide needle drops into. It is visible from the throat of the carb. I picked it up out of the floor and had to figure out what it was. Live and learn!
justjeff likes this.
Doc279 is offline  
post #9 of 33 Old 03-04-2017, 01:51 PM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,216
If draining fuel from the bowl makes the engine start better after sitting a few days, the petcock and float needle may leak a tiny bit allowing the bowl to over fill given enough time. Using the clear tube method, you may want to check after it has sat a few days and before starting the engine.
GoMotor is offline  
post #10 of 33 Old 03-04-2017, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 124
I replaced the petcock a few years ago with a no vacuum style after getting a crankcase full of gasoline/oil mixture!!! The petcock is not leaking when in the off position.
After finding the crankcase full of gasoline - I have never left it in the on position again!

I hope to find the time tomorrow to check the float with the clear tube. My rebuild kit is on the way and I will install it once it gets here. The bike will not start until I manually drain some fuel from the bowl when it is cold. After I get it running, it runs fine the remainder of the day???? It is just weird.... I cut a slot in the drain plug so that I do not have to locate the allen head socket.
Doc279 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hard to Start When Cold Bamaham 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 16 03-23-2015 08:08 PM
What should i pay for 1998 KLR 650?? Wetsalad KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 5 04-01-2013 09:47 AM
1998 KLRJust Won't Start Danno 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 10 05-13-2010 10:47 AM
Choke needed to start hot or cold DonD 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 15 07-06-2008 07:48 PM
Cold starting problem- no spark. HELP! Hayduke 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 9 01-02-2007 03:29 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome