2004 Enrichener Valve Issue - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 33 Old 03-15-2017, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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2004 Enrichener Valve Issue

Hello, I've read lots of posts trying to find info that may help my issue but I haven't found my exact problem so here it is...

The enricher doesn't help with starting in cold weather. It's not needed and the bike starts right up when the weather is warm. If I start the bike and slowly engage the choke lever the RPMs slowly decrease and then the motor dies, I would expect RPM to increase (am I wrong?). Once started the bike runs perfectly throughout the RPM range.

History and things checked so far:
The bike sat for 4 years without running before I got it. I have cleaned the carb. The tank is clean. The petcock is working properly. The plastic part where the enricher attaches looks fine. Choke lever and cable are actuating the enricher. The passages related to the enricher have been cleaned with carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air. It seems like a fairly simple mechanism and I am stumped as to why it doesn't appear to work. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 33 Old 03-15-2017, 06:46 PM
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mahoo,
1st off, is the Cold start lever mounted under the horn button on an OEM switch case?
Now please tell me which way you are pushing/pulling the enrichener lever for Cold Start.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 33 Old 03-15-2017, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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pdwestman,

The lever is mounted under the horn button, and I push it outward (left) for a cold start and inward (right) for normal running.
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post #4 of 33 Old 03-15-2017, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahoo View Post
pdwestman,

The lever is mounted under the horn button, and I push it outward (left) for a cold start and inward (right) for normal running.
OK,
How much slack is in the enrichener cable, should be about an 1/8th inch, sliding the adjuster in and out of the plastic bracket.

If all other systems are up to par, in a 70f degree and UNDER cold Start one would ensure the fuel is turned on, pull cold start lever Full Left. Engage the starter button, for at least 5 full seconds or start-up which ever comes FIRST. DO NOT Open the throttle! Do Not tap-tap-tap the starter button. CRANK IT!

If the engine doesn't start in 5 seconds, release the starter button. Count to 10, slowly. Crank it, again. At 4th second just "twitch" the throttle open, A Hair. Not a lot!

Too many people 'play' with the throttle during cold starts! There is NOT an accelerator pump in the carb like a '67 Mustang or Chevy! Playing with the throttle TOO early defeats the enrichener.

But, if one must always "twitch" the throttle open on the second or 3rd attempt at cold start up, it may be an indication of Low compression and past time to adjust valve clearances. Measure the compression BEFORE and After valve tappet inspect and adjustment.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 33 Old 03-15-2017, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
OK,
How much slack is in the enrichener cable, should be about an 1/8th inch, sliding the adjuster in and out of the plastic bracket.

If all other systems are up to par, in a 70f degree and UNDER cold Start one would ensure the fuel is turned on, pull cold start lever Full Left. Engage the starter button, for at least 5 full seconds or start-up which ever comes FIRST. DO NOT Open the throttle! Do Not tap-tap-tap the starter button. CRANK IT!

If the engine doesn't start in 5 seconds, release the starter button. Count to 10, slowly. Crank it, again. At 4th second just "twitch" the throttle open, A Hair. Not a lot!

Too many people 'play' with the throttle during cold starts! There is NOT an accelerator pump in the carb like a '67 Mustang or Chevy! Playing with the throttle TOO early defeats the enrichener.

But, if one must always "twitch" the throttle open on the second or 3rd attempt at cold start up, it may be an indication of Low compression and past time to adjust valve clearances. Measure the compression BEFORE and After valve tappet inspect and adjustment.


I will check the slack and give this a try in the morning, it's supposed to be in the 50's here.

Thanks for your time and effort, I appreciate it!
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post #6 of 33 Old 03-16-2017, 08:17 AM
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If the bike starts easily without the enrichener, and the motor dies when you add that extra fuel, it sounds like you are already running quite rich.

Is your pilot jet/ idle air mixture screw stock specs?
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post #7 of 33 Old 03-16-2017, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahoo View Post
I will check the slack and give this a try in the morning, it's supposed to be in the 50's here.

Thanks for your time and effort, I appreciate it!
OK, the slack looks to be about 1/8".

Same result this morning. I followed the starting directions and no luck. Didn't even sputter.

The only way I can get a cold start (when its cold outside) is to continually crank (with no enricher) and it eventually fires a few times and then finally starts up. Then requires some working of the throttle to warm it up so it idles.

Again, in warm weather, I just touch the starter button it starts right up.
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post #8 of 33 Old 03-16-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinyribs View Post
If the bike starts easily without the enrichener, and the motor dies when you add that extra fuel, it sounds like you are already running quite rich.

Is your pilot jet/ idle air mixture screw stock specs?
The idle mixture screw is out 2 turns. That's what I had read to set it at. I'm not sure if that's correct or not.
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post #9 of 33 Old 03-16-2017, 11:40 AM
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fuel screw at 2 turns should be in the ballpark but do you know which pilot jet, main jet and needle you have?

Dave
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post #10 of 33 Old 03-16-2017, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
fuel screw at 2 turns should be in the ballpark but do you know which pilot jet, main jet and needle you have?

Dave
It should all be stock, the bike only has 2600 miles on it, and I had to remove the dust cover from the idle screw. I guess that's not a sure thing, I am just assuming.
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