Bike lost power on the freeway today then was bogging when I opened the throttle.... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-15-2017, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Bike lost power on the freeway today then was bogging when I opened the throttle....

Rode like 100 miles and was on the freeway going home then suddenly bike lost power and wouldn't respond. Ignition and electrical was on so it seemed 100% fuel related. I coasted to the shoulder and it idled fine. When I would open the throttle it would rev up then dropped to idle immediately. It almost seemed like a jet was clogged. I sputtered to the gas station. Checked it and it had gas but I added a couple more gallons. I sputtered away to make it home on surface streets. Bike wasn't overheating. I opened the the throttle all the way and it cut out then shot up and seemed to ride fine again. Does this sound like something temporarily clogged a jet? I did fall over when on a trail so I probably stirred up any junk in the bottom if there was any junk.
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-17-2017, 02:06 PM
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Yes, something partially clogging the float needle and seat of the main jet could have done that. How old is your KLR? Any chance the fuel line may be starting to deteriorate?
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-17-2017, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
Yes, something partially clogging the float needle and seat of the main jet could have done that. How old is your KLR? Any chance the fuel line may be starting to deteriorate?
It's a 2001 with 6700 miles on it. I should completely check out the fuel system. I just got it. I want to change the float bowl gasket anyways since I think there is a slight leak. I think the previous owner said they did the 22 cent mod and when I bought it, it was dripping gas. Who knows if they put the gasket on right. It stopped dripping but I had an old yamaha magna and a few of the float bowl gaskets were to smashed to seal right. I'll check the filter also. Thank you
Jeff
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-17-2017, 09:26 PM
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If you are going to remove the carburetor, this video will help make it easier.

Be sure to disconnect the black plastic coupling on the left side of the carburetor that holds the choke cable in before rotating the carb. That coupling can easily break with just a little sideways pressure on it the cable. 45 degree needle nose pliers are the best tool for the job.
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-18-2017, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks GoMotor. I did see that video and some longer versions of it. It's the best carb video I think. The previous owner removed the choke cable and I have a button to pull down there. They said it was a mod. Maybe they broker it before and had to fix it. It works fine since I only choke for a minute ish. As soon as I get some time I'm gonna tackle this. I'm wondering if I should just order a jet kit since its only $40. I picked up a used slip-on and don't want to totally lean out.
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-19-2017, 12:44 AM
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I don't see a need for a carb kit if it was running well and quit suddenly. If it is jet related, they can be easily cleaned. The same for the needle and seat. If you know which main jet you kneed for the exhaust, you could just get it.

I removed my choke cable for two reasons.
1. To make room on the left handle bar for a rear brake lever.
2. To make it easy to rotate and work on the carburetor in the woods/road if necessary with out fooling with the choke.

I replaced the cable with a pull knob form Stead Engineering: Stead Engineering
and then extended the pull knob out for easy reach with a piece of Tygon flexible fuel line, so I can bend it and rotate the carb..

Last edited by GoMotor; 03-19-2017 at 12:47 AM.
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-19-2017, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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I don't see a need for a carb kit if it was running well and quit suddenly. If it is jet related, they can be easily cleaned. The same for the needle and seat. If you know which main jet you kneed for the exhaust, you could just get it.

I removed my choke cable for two reasons.
1. To make room on the left handle bar for a rear brake lever.
2. To make it easy to rotate and work on the carburetor in the woods/road if necessary with out fooling with the choke.

I replaced the cable with a pull knob form Stead Engineering: Stead Engineering
and then extended the pull knob out for easy reach with a piece of Tygon flexible fuel line, so I can bend it and rotate the carb..
Oh ok so with a slip on I don't necessarily need to put a stage 1 jet kit but can buy just the main jet, that's great. Who sells main jets? I see used ones on ebay but would it just be a dealer item for different sizes? Maybe I can just order the one that is the next size up and maybe the next size up from that one to be safe.

Cool I have a pull knob also, so the previous owner did that already I guess. It's a brass looking pull knob. They left it on the carb so it's kinda tough to reach so maybe I can redo it with the flexible line. It's ok for now.
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-19-2017, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrimerman View Post
Oh ok so with a slip on I don't necessarily need to put a stage 1 jet kit but can buy just the main jet, that's great. Who sells main jets? I see used ones on ebay but would it just be a dealer item for different sizes? Maybe I can just order the one that is the next size up and maybe the next size up from that one to be safe.

Cool I have a pull knob also, so the previous owner did that already I guess. It's a brass looking pull knob. They left it on the carb so it's kinda tough to reach so maybe I can redo it with the flexible line. It's ok for now.
Online parts houses are a good place to get parts pricing and exploded views for your KLR. Here is a parts fiche for the 2001 carburetor. 2001 Kawasaki KL650-A15 Carburetor | CyclePartsNation Kawasaki Parts Nation
Jets are #92063. I have no experience fooling with jets. Stock works fine for my applications, but I do see that some go up a size for higher flow exhausts.

I find that for purchases of $20 or less a local dealer is likely to have better pricing due to once a week bulk deliveries from Kawasaki. On more expensive orders the online parts houses may have better prices even with freight due to not having the cost of a retail store.

For the extended choke pull knob, I cut the plastic knob off without cutting its metal stem and secured some 3/16" Tygon fuel line over its threaded stem with a small zip tie. I got about 4" of threaded rod that would fit in the fuel line to stiffen it up and leaving about 1/2" between the rod and the choke stem for flexibility secured it with another small zip tie leaving 1/2" of threads out the end. A couple of nuts and a washer on that end serve as the pull knob.

If I need to rotate the carburetor for service, I can just bend the line or cut the zip tie at the pull knob and slide the rod and knob out of the flex line.
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