Questions about upcoming clutch repair - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Questions about upcoming clutch repair

I've been having clutch problems: Lots of false neutrals in the lower gears and it's sometimes impossible to shift up from first gear. I've lubed and adjusted the clutch cable with no change, so it looks like I'm going to have to dig into the bike to find out what's wrong. A couple of concerns:

This is going to be a relatively big job, and I won't have any way of knowing what's wrong until I'm knee-deep in the project. What's the best strategy here as far as having replacement parts ready? Should I buy every replacement part that I might need and then return what I don't use? I don't have any kind of enclosed space to work in, so I can't just diagnose the problem and then leave the bike disassembled while I wait for a part to arrive.

Also, I know I'm going to have to drain the oil and coolant. I replaced both recently enough that neither should need to be changed. Can I somehow save and reuse the current fluids, or should I plan on running fresh stuff? ("Wow, Beorn, I thought *I* was a penny-pinching KLR rider, but you take the cake." Yes. Yes, I do.)
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 04:43 PM
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Re-use the oil; don't know why you'd drain the coolant.

Might even be able to lay the bike on its side without draining the oil . . . I defer to more experienced members on this issue!
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Re-use the oil; don't know why you'd drain the coolant.

Might even be able to lay the bike on its side without draining the oil . . . I defer to more experienced members on this issue!
I guess that you have never been inside the RH side of either your KLR650 or 250 then have you Damocles!

Yes the coolant has to be drained and yes Beorn you may re-use it also.

Beorn,
What you have just described is more like an external gear pedal issue. Possibly the weld is breaking on the clevis which clamps onto the gear change shaft splines. Then the tip of the pedal digs into the generator cover, and won't pull fully up into gear. I've been there, had that.
It Really doesn't sound like a clutch issue.
Please investigate the gear pedal with hand and eyes. Rock the bike fore and aft while attempting to shift with dead engine.

A clutch issue would be "creeping while the clutch lever is squeezed" or "slipping after upshifting and trying to accelerate".

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 08:28 PM
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Seems like I've been in there (maybe some time ago); don't recall draining oil (maybe I did); don't understand the necessity for draining the coolant . . . refresh my memory! Water pump interface? Just a guess!
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post #5 of 14 Old 03-22-2017, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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So, it turns out the bolt that's used to tighten the clevis is *way* too loose. I'm not sure that's the only problem, but it's definitely a problem, and since it's the easiest and most obvious thing to fix, I'll start there. I don't have the right size wrench to tighten it, though, and my attempts to do it with a monkey wrench are getting me nowhere. Anyone know exactly what size wrench this bolt needs? If the Clymer manual has that info, I've been unable to find it.
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-22-2017, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I guess that you have never been inside the RH side of either your KLR650 or 250 then have you Damocles!
Never had to open his bike up? I call that a win.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Seems like I've been in there (maybe some time ago); don't recall draining oil (maybe I did); don't understand the necessity for draining the coolant . . . refresh my memory! Water pump interface? Just a guess!
Damocles, the clutch cover does hold the water pump, oil filter and also the sight glass for the oil level. Though, the oil level does completely disappear in the sight glass with the bike only leaning on the kickstand. Other the the dribble out of the oil filter, it's likely the engine would not dump all of it's oil out with that side cover removed.



They're not like some bikes that have an independent clutch cover.


Last edited by shinyribs; 03-22-2017 at 11:19 PM.
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post #7 of 14 Old 03-23-2017, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Beorn View Post
So, it turns out the bolt that's used to tighten the clevis is *way* too loose. I'm not sure that's the only problem, but it's definitely a problem, and since it's the easiest and most obvious thing to fix, I'll start there. I don't have the right size wrench to tighten it, though, and my attempts to do it with a monkey wrench are getting me nowhere. Anyone know exactly what size wrench this bolt needs? If the Clymer manual has that info, I've been unable to find it.
Beorn,
Wrench size is 10mm. It is possible that the bolt was installed from the wrong direction and can not pinch the clevis.
Best to remove the bolt (Must completely remove the bolt to slide pedal off of shaft) and inspect the splines of both the shaft and the pedal. Determine from which direction is proper bolt installation. Use Anti-seize grease under the Head of the bolt and on the threads of the bolt. Re-install.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #8 of 14 Old 03-23-2017, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-23-2017, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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I've got the bolt and pedal off and the splines look fine on both the pedal and shaft. All good so far. What do you mean when you say the bolt might have been installed from the wrong direction? As far as I can tell, there are only two ways for it to go on: from the top and from the bottom. It's supposed to go in from the top, correct? So the only wrong way would be to put it in from the bottom?

Also, maybe a silly question, but should I put anti-seize compound or anything else on the splines themselves, or should that be a dry connection?
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-23-2017, 07:11 PM
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The bolt should be installed thru the UN-Threaded side so it can Pull the clevis together, as it is tightened. I can't SEE your pedal form here, don't know whether it is OEM or some aftermarket pedal!

Usually we want the splines clean and Dry for a 'better bite'. Lube the bolt only.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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