Have to keep throttle open to keep engine from dying while idling - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 4 Old 03-30-2017, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Have to keep throttle open to keep engine from dying while idling

When I'm idling, I often have to keep the throttle open a little to keep the engine from dying. If I don't, the engine slows down (chug...chug.......chug) and finally just dies. It seems the problem occurs mostly when the engine is warm; the problem never happens when I've just started the bike and am letting it warm up. Where would you begin looking for the source of this problem?
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post #2 of 4 Old 03-30-2017, 06:37 PM
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If you are using some choke for starting and warm up, but it dies idling with the choke off, it could be that the choke is keeping the idle up during warm up. First adjust the warm idle speed screw for 1,200 rpm. Then If necessary, try turning the idle fuel mixture screw out 1/4th turn.

Last edited by GoMotor; 03-30-2017 at 06:48 PM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 03-31-2017, 10:35 AM
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Beorn,
I don't think you ever told us the year of your bike.
Two suggestions, Choke cable may be adjusted TOO Tight. So possibly too rich when fully warm. Gen1 adjuster by the lever / Gen 2 adjuster under the fuel tank. And then probably the idle speed needs to be turned up. (1200-1400rpm, fully warmed)

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-01-2017, 08:29 AM
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Join Date: May 2016
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Had thus issue last summer. Managed to limp home by gassing the throttle in 4th gear. It still stalled on me and after pulling over on the highway, got it to start again and rip on the throttle til I got home. I took apart the carb and soaked it in straight pine for a few hours, then wiped the parts down, rinsed and dried them. I also changed the float valve needle. Put it back together and problem solved. The float valve needle is rubber and think it degrades due to the ethanol in the gas. You can't see anything wrong with the cone shaped tip, but replacing is easy and cheap. I bought a carb rebuild kit for 18 bucks. Only used the float valve needle though. Anyways, that's how I solved the issue.. hope this helps

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