Another dreaded "it won't start" thread. - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #11 of 13 Old 06-10-2017, 08:39 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 6,017
I recon that mainly one needs to realize that the carb needs to be held at an angle so as not to depress the float needle spring and therefore in-advertently adjust the float height such that the float can't drop far enough and therefore can't allow fuel to fill the float bowl. The newer video stressed that quite a bit, imo.

It's been a few years since I viewed the other video which Tom Schmitz referenced.
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-10-2017, 10:37 PM
4th Gear
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Indiana/ Michigan line at the Lake
Posts: 1,585
Reading thru all this stuff I agree that you are in great shape
overall and a case of hibernation sickness needs cured.

For my own peace of mind after seeing how fast my lines were
cracking on a Gen 2 '09, I took out the vacuum diaphragm in the
petcock to make it a full flow unit. The nipple behind the petcock
will need capped as will the nipple on the carb but it sends down
the go go juice quite freely. That being said, a well seated float
needle is a must. This takes us back to the days where we actually
had to turn the gas on and off manually.

The Tengais are quite awesome looking and I hope to see you crossing
the country soon on the thing.


This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-20-2017, 01:23 AM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
I hate to say this but....

Once you mentioned the bike fired up with starting fluid you pretty much nailed it down to it being a carb issue.
(You could have a air leak/crack in the carb boot between the carb and the motor but that should be easy to spot.)

I can tell you from experience that a clean looking carb can be deceiving. I've scrubbed, soaked and spit polished everything on the carb only to find that once I actually replaced the secondary jet would my bike start and idle.

I would suggest getting a rebuild kit and replacing everything you can, jets included. (Runs about 30 dollars in the states) and clean every port with carb cleaner and q-tips.

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