Dropped bike now no spark - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Dropped bike now no spark

The bike was dropped by it's previous owner, I bought it as scrap. I want to bring it back to life but, no spark. I am new here.I met a youngish lady while working in Oman. She's from the Phillipines. I want to ride the bike to the wedding......from Newcastle to a place called Tagudin in Luzon, Phillipines. So, any help will steer me on my way. My thinking is that there is a problem with the stator, or crankshaft sensor. A jolt...what would that affect? Thanks for your consideration and time. Even if you have nothing. In your mechanical arsenal.
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 06:51 PM
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Gotta have functioning:

Exciter coils on stator, pickup coil on rotor, CDI ("igniter") module, ignition coil, spark plug, and sound ignition circuitry wiring.

No kill switch or ignition switch malfunctions (e.g., short-circuits).

Best bet: Check components with wiring diagram (on 'Net) and multimeter; check electrical/electronic components also with values from service manuals.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 09:50 PM
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With no spark after a drop the first things I would check are the clutch lever safety switch (particularly if dropped on left side) and the kickstand safety switch for damage. No idea if it was dropped at low speed, or going down the highway at 60 MPH, but those are the first things I would check, and then the main fuse. I can't really see any way that a drop could damage any internal components like the stator, lol, unless it was dropped off a cliff...

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post #4 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 09:58 PM
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Yes start here

Quote:
Originally Posted by 650Stew View Post
With no spark after a drop the first things I would check are the clutch lever safety switch (particularly if dropped on left side) and the kickstand safety switch for damage. No idea if it was dropped at low speed, or going down the highway at 60 MPH, but those are the first things I would check, and then the main fuse. I can't really see any way that a drop could damage any internal components like the stator, lol, unless it was dropped off a cliff...


Try checking the clutch safety and kick stand safety. Sometimes it's the simple things that fix issues. Maybe not.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-29-2017, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it.

The bike was dropped at 0 mph and I bought the bike off a dealer. I assume they looked at the obvious things as I can see it has a new spark plug, cap and ht lead. Maybe the mechanics just gave up when they realized they had a job on their hands. After all it's a 20 year old bike, not worth the hassle.

The clutch and side stand safety appear to have been bypassed. I've checked all the wiring/fuse box, so that's all ok. The battery is good and I've put a new ignition coil and CDI unit on it - no joy. Maybe it's the kill switch or ignition switch...I'll have a look at them at the weekend along with the rotor and pulse coil.

I've done a fair bit of research now but the bad part about all this research is that the more I read, the more uneasy and paranoid I become. I just read that apparently new replacement parts are sometimes faulty. I'm going to have to test the new parts I've put on - this could all end up with myself in the lunatic asylum, having replaced the entire ignition system 14 times over.

But I'm still glad I bought a knackered bike......it's the only way to learn. Confusion precedes enlightenment......as they say.

Last edited by alextonner; 05-29-2017 at 04:39 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-29-2017, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alextonner View Post
The bike was dropped by it's previous owner, I bought it as scrap. I want to bring it back to life but, no spark. I am new here.I met a youngish lady while working in Oman. She's from the Phillipines. I want to ride the bike to the wedding......from Newcastle to a place called Tagudin in Luzon, Phillipines. So, any help will steer me on my way. My thinking is that there is a problem with the stator, or crankshaft sensor. A jolt...what would that affect? Thanks for your consideration and time. Even if you have nothing. In your mechanical arsenal.
alex,
What they say and what actually was, can be worlds apart.

We can only assume that your bike is 1987-2007, you did not say.
If I'm not mistaken the 3 safety switches not only terminate the spark, but also the starter motor.
So does the starter motor crank the engine over?

Let us kill 2 birds with one stone. Screw a compression gauge into the spark plug hole.
Next, unscrew the spark plug cap from the wire and hold the tip of the wire near the valve cover bolt. Hold the throttle Wide Open and crank it.
Watch for spark about 6-12mm of gap worth, don't worry about the compression gauge, it should Hold its high reading.
What is the compression gauge high reading? Need at least 70psi, 100-125psi would be Great.
There is No Sense in chasing spark without enough Compression!


Did you still not see sparks? If you did not see sparks, Hold the spark plug wire in your hand and crank it again.
Did you not feel any sparks?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-30-2017, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Did you still not see sparks? If you did not see sparks, Hold the spark plug wire in your hand and crank it again.
Did you not feel any sparks?
Odd comment, given your previously stated concerns about "confusing" inexperienced forum members, pdwestman.

You're either joking (no emoticon indication) or perpetrating a cruel joke, seems to me.

For the record:

Holding onto the spark plug wire while cranking the engine may result in a severe electrical shock. A procedure for masochists only.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-30-2017, 08:10 PM
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alex,
Did you check for wire damage ahead of the engine sprocket?

In bright sunshine it can be hard, if not impossible to see the spark. KLR is a noisey enough cranking engine, one probably can't hear the snap of the spark either.

A CDI spark is a high voltage, short duration spark. (Gen1)
A TCBI spark is usually slightly lower voltage, but slightly longer duration. (Gen2, slightly easier to see)
But if one is 99 percent certain that the spark is non-existent one shouldn't be too afraid to attempt to feel it. If it is too weak of spark to see, could be exciter coil on the stator or the ignition coil. Non-existent spark, trigger/pulsar coil or cdi unit.

I can't see the spark on my lawn mower in bright sunshine and the disturbance of the rope start, but I can feel it or not.
A bad condenser on an breaker points system would give a weaker AC voltage, akin to a good 9 volt battery on your tongue.

Work on engines enough, you will get zapped occasionally.


But my biggest question is, how much cold cranking compression does this particular engine have? 77-124 psi is normal specs.

ps, Just tested a 'no-spark' Kawasaki KLX110 with cdi ignition, yep it has no spark. Customer had internet purchased a cdi unit because the bike died last year. Still no-spark. Not even a weak tingle on my fingers.
Digital voa meter,
Ignition coil primary side, .2 ohms
-----------secondary side, 1200+ ohms for an instant but disappears to infinite.

Analog voa meter,
Primary side, .2 ohms
Secondary side, infinite!
I'll report back in about a week or two.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 05-31-2017 at 08:12 PM. Reason: ps added
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-05-2017, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
alex,
Did you check for wire damage ahead of the engine sprocket?

Work on engines enough, you will get zapped occasionally.

But my biggest question is, how much cold cranking compression does this particular engine have? 77-124 psi is normal specs.

ps, Just tested a 'no-spark' Kawasaki KLX110 with cdi ignition, yep it has no spark. Customer had internet purchased a cdi unit because the bike died last year. Still no-spark. Not even a weak tingle on my fingers.
Digital voa meter,
Ignition coil primary side, .2 ohms
-----------secondary side, 1200+ ohms for an instant but disappears to infinite.

Analog voa meter,
Primary side, .2 ohms
Secondary side, infinite!
I'll report back in about a week or two.
Ok, Next day I rechecked the KLX110 ignition coil ohm readings. Tested Ok, I apparently wasn't getting good connection in the tip of the high tension wire.
Had tested the ohm readings of the exciter and trigger coils on the stator windings that first night. But needed to test AC output voltage. Kind of hard to get a reasonably reliable reading on a kickstart only model. Needed more hands.
We know that a trigger coil will trigger a cdi unit with as little as .1 VAC. But how much VAC should an Exciter coil make to power a cdi?

The KLX110 service manual suggests 15+ VAC peak voltage, and there is no way I can turn the engine over that fast. This engine flywheel cover doesn't even an access plug to the flywheel rotor bolt! So we used the rear wheel to turn the engine over in high gear, as fast as we could. 0.4 Volts AC is definitely not enough to power a cdi unit.
I replaced the stator coil assembly today. The new Exciter coil will generate 4-6 VAC at kickstart speeds and will power the cdi and in turn power the ignition coil to make sparks.

And yes, if I now hang onto the exposed high tension spark plug lead it does 'bite a bit'. The KLX110 does now run.

How is your project coming Alex?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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