Non-stock front sprocket nut? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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  • 1 Post By Bluehighways
  • 1 Post By DPelletier
  • 1 Post By telefonica
  • 2 Post By pdwestman
  • 1 Post By telefonica
 
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Old 06-05-2017, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 30
Non-stock front sprocket nut?

I went to replace my 15T front sprocket with a 16T and was hit with a bit of a surprise. It looks like the PO didn't use a stock nut. My nut doesn't seem to have a lock washer and it's 30mm rather than the stock 20mm (or 27mm?). I'm talking about #92015

I tried to break the dang thing loose with my breaker bar but no luck.

Does anyone recognize this thing? It's not stock, right? Is there some sort of locking mechanism I'm not aware of? Maybe I'll just take it to a local shop and they can break it loose with some air tools or something.

Thanks!

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Old 06-05-2017, 02:09 PM
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 391
Someone else will chime in no doubt, but I'd guess that it is a "Prevailing Torque Nut" that has been over tightened.

Prevailaing torque nut

"Prevailing torque replaces the factory nut for the KLR650 1995 and later. . . . . The factory nut is a 27mm (1 1/16" wil also work). This prevailing torque nut uses a 30mm socket, although 1 3/16" will also work."
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 30
Interesting, didn't know about that. Thanks for helping me ID it! I guess I'll just keep trying my best to break it loose! Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2017, 05:17 PM
4th Gear
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kelowna, B.C.
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Yep; looks like a prevailing torque nut (see the deformation of the shape). Prevailaing torque nut


BTW, though EM suggests using the factory 72 ft lbs, many of us use far less (I use 40) in order to be able to take the nut off with hand tools in the field. .....yours sounds like it may have been overtightened

so basically, I have nothing useful to add to Bluehighways comments! LOL

Dave
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
BTW, though EM suggests using the factory 72 ft lbs, many of us use far less (I use 40)
Super helpful information. I'll definitely go a little light when torquing it back on!
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:18 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,340
I urge one and all Not to have the Transmission in gear if using air impact wrench to remove engine sprocket nut. Could result in broken internal transmission gear.
Instead place a screw driver shank between the rear sprocket teeth and the chain and roll the bike forward to jam the chain.

Every once in a while I encounter sprockets nuts which just will not give up. Only way I've found is to Quickly heat the flats of the sprocket nut with small tip on oxy/acetylene torch, being careful of the alternator wires. Using a work stand allows the wheel to turn the nut for even heating with the torch flame pointing away from the wires.
Then jam the chain and rear sprocket with screw driver shank. Smooth, Steady pull on a breaker bar with an extension handle is preferred instead of air wrench.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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Old 06-24-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 30
Thanks for the advice, everyone. Mechanic had the nut off in less than 10 seconds, haha

pdwestman - I followed your advice and made sure the bike was in neutral

The bike feels great on the highway, now. I can do 75mph (indicated) at 4.5k rpm!


Thanks again!
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