Water pump mechanical seal question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 3 Old 06-20-2017, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Red face Water pump mechanical seal question

Hey guys,

I think I already know the answer but wanted to toss it out there to see what you guys thought.

I just replaced the oil and mechanical seals on the water pump due to water in the oil, (which led to oil blowing past the piston rings and out through the carb, which destroyed the rings and led to new top end, seriously my luck sucks)..

Anyhow with how my luck has been, I went for my "ride it like you stole it" first break in ride (to get the rings seated) and made it about 10 mins before both my temp gauges went too high for my liking and I shut it down when I noticed coolant dripping out of the weep hole, and it wasn't just a little bit. So much for the seal change.

My question is, do you think it's possible to just change out the two seals on the impeller and not remove the other one that you press into the case? Or am I being an idiot but not replacing all of them? I've seen the video on how to remove the pressed in seal without pulling of the side of the case as well.

I know, I know when you buy a new mechanical seal you get both pieces, but if I don't have to go through the pain of digging out the pressed one it makes it a bit easier, plus I don't have to drain the oil. (To be on the safe side)

Anywho, I've got the new seals inbound along with the thermo bob 2 mod and I might sport for a new tusk radiator if I can't get the water temp stabilized.

Thank you in advance,

-Vaportrail
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post #2 of 3 Old 06-20-2017, 12:00 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Was the weep hole plugged up, previously? It keeps a leaky water seal from allowing pressurize coolant from pushing past the oil seal, by giving it an exit from between the 2 seals.
So your previous water in oil issue may not have come from the water pump seal in the first place.

As to current temperature issue, do you have the lower radiator hose properly connected to the water pump?
From the cool bottom of the radiator to the Rearward nipple on the water pump, is correct. Then the Forward nipple water pump hose connects to the Front of the Cylinder block. (even reads "CYL")
The coolant is feed to the center of the water pump and is spun centrifugally to the outer perimeter of the impeller to the outlet nipple.

Having those two hoses criss-crossed prevent the coolant from properly warming the thermostat to Open and I think the 'dead-head' water pressure inside the pump housing may be causing your coolant leakage out the weep hole.
So it would be best to confirm proper connections, before taking anything else apart.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 06-20-2017 at 04:26 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #3 of 3 Old 06-20-2017, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
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Yup, that was the first thing I checked. The hoses are on correctly.

As for the old seals. They were absolutely toast. The inner mechanical seal was rusty-chunky, and the oil seal fell apart when I touched it. (As in split in two, I think i still have a picture) The bike had been sitting for 4 years before I got it, fluids still within. I figured as is sat they just gave up the ghost. Same thing happened to the petcock rubbers and let's not talk about the carb or the junkies floating in the tank.

I just went out and ran it for a few at idle and triple checked and yes, it's dripping from the weeping hole, about a drop every 10-15 seconds.

One note though, it wasn't running too hot earlier...that's the normal running temp. The new gauge is a bit tough to read, heck didn't even notice that the thermostat won't even open until 2 ticks from the beginning of the red section.

I'm pretty positive that I either nicked the little o-ring when I was twisting back on the impeller or cracked the ceramic part. I'm just going to replace it all to be on the safe side. No reason to get that into it without replacing it all.

I'll let you know,

-Vaportrail
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