Drive Chain Tensioner Plate - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 12 Old 09-03-2017, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Drive Chain Tensioner Plate

Hello,

So I am new to forum. I purchased an 06 KLR650 yesterday for 2k with 11k miles. Looks to be in decent shape... the chain needed adjusting. This is my first chain driven bike in many moons so I watched a youtube video on how to do it and how much play the chain needed etc. This morning after riding to work I noticed that the rear tensioner plate on the left side of the swing arm fell off and now the adjustment bolt is crooked. I am not sure what I did wrong or how to fix it or if the bike is even safe to ride at this point. The axle does not look to have moved at all. Suggestions?
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-03-2017, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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here is a photo of my screw up

Last edited by sidriver2013; 09-03-2017 at 07:18 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-03-2017, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Just for clarification, All Bolts were torqued appropriately (I Think) using an older but pretty accurate torque wrench. The axle and chain play seem to be exactly as they were prior to bolt backing itself off and the plate falling off. I am a pretty competent shade tree wrench (least I thought I was) but this is baffling me and I can not find any answers online regarding this particular bike. Thanks for any input.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-03-2017, 08:06 PM
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I'm not sure on the tensioner....but that chain is in serious need of cleaning and lube.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1

Last edited by dan filipi; 09-03-2017 at 08:43 PM.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-03-2017, 11:43 PM
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Don't even think about riding that bike.

Get a replacement, or make one if needed. The last thing you want is your wheel cocking sideways, chain derailing/getting wrapped up......yeah, just don't risk it, boss.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-04-2017, 01:15 AM
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You'll want P/N 3205-1259, what Kawasaki calls a "Stopper, Chain Adjuster."

Then get two nyloc nuts (one for each side) with 8mmX1.25 threads.

Hope the pictures help.
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Last edited by Bluehighways; 08-31-2018 at 02:20 AM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-05-2017, 11:01 AM
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In theory (and practice in my case) the adjustment bolt and backing plate do nothing under normal operation though it will keep the wheel from moving forward after a big hit.......which isn't a common occurrance on a KLR unless you're riding it on an MX track - the axle should keep the wheel from moving. I've managed to finish rides and races after losing an adjuster nut.

....in future use a Nyloc as Bluehighways suggested.

and yes, that chain needs some attention/replacement

Dave
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-05-2017, 11:04 AM
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How is that from stock, it's not double nutted? Mine is '16 which is different design.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-05-2017, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
How is that from stock, it's not double nutted? Mine is '16 which is different design.
Yes they are double nutted from the factory; I swapped mine for Nylocs as they make it even less likely to lose a nut (or two). Gen2 design is more modern and better.

Dave
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-05-2017, 03:36 PM
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I used a piece of 3/8 clear tubing pushed onto the remaining threads to back up the nuts...This was on an '06 and has worked great for years. Now on an '17 so no worries.

Good luck OP...
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