Stranded - Power Loss 05 KLR - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 2 Old 09-05-2017, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
Neutral
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
Stranded - Power Loss 05 KLR

At my whits end ... bike sounds like it's running very well mechanically ... however, in all gears and all rpm's my engine will start to die suddenly ... also happens when I am coming to a stop with the clutch in ... for example, I am cruising at 4500 rpm fifth gear and it will jump down to 4000 rpm and then back up or I will be starting off and the engine will start to stall and stutter and then I hit the throttle and it gets going, then I'm in second and it goes from 3000 rpm to a sudden drop to 2500 rpm, then back to 3000, I hit the throttle and jump to third and so on and so forth

This isnt always happening however. Sometimes it will go 30, 60, 90, 150 miles without a hiccup and then when it starts it just won't stop.

Stock 2005 KLR650, 12,000 miles on it, doohickey mod, Petcock now gravity fed, clutch and kickstand safeties bypassed

I have searched all the forums and concocted a list as well as what it says to do in the clymer manual and below is what I have done with the tools and knowledge I have

- Bypass clutch safety - done
- Bypass kickstand safety - done
- Clean all electrical connections - done
- Check wiring for rubbing/ware - done (none)
-Change Petcock from vacuum to gravity - done
-Is petcock letting fuel flow? - yes, plenty of gas in float bowl
- Clean carb - done everything is in good condition
- Idle mixture - idling at 1500
- Engine flooded? - was running at 2.5 turns now trying 1.75 turns
- Fuel tank cap - good condition
- Contaminated fuel - no, only name brand in, running 89
- New chain- done
- New choke plunger - done (brass kit from stead engineering)
- Spark plug - good condition
- Spark plug lead - cleaned
- Run it richer - done (running at 2.5 turns, now trying at 1.75 turns)
- Damaged ignition switch - no, good condition and clean
- Damaged engine stop switch - no,good condition and clean
- Air filter - good and clean
-Air leaks at intake duct - no
- Recheck bypass connections - good, no rubbing or shorting
- Air leaks in exhaust - none that I can see or hear
-Neutral switch - clean and good connection
-Loose baffle in muffler - can't hear anything, also not sure what this means
- Klx jet kit - elevation issue - don't think so, having issues at all elevations

After going through the list above I am leaning towards needing to replace one of the wires that comes from the stator that I know is damaged ... when this got damaged before, I wasn't getting spark so I am thinking that I am getting bad spark again because the soldering job can't carry the voltage required? I am a real novice to electronics and only intermediate at mechanics so this has been a learning experience.

Below is a list of stuff I have yet to try in the field for lack of tools or enough knowledge about ... I did just get to a shop in Mammoth to see if I can work on this stuff if needed ...

Ignition timing?
Bad CDI?
Low compression?
Damaged coil?
Valve clearance?
Stuck or seized valve?
Leaking cylinder head?

Do I go into the engine at this point?
Larsgoesto is offline  
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post #2 of 2 Old 09-05-2017, 06:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,183
Fuel contaminants (e. g., moisture) can settle in carb float bowl, even when only quality fuel has been introduced to the tank.

Thus, I suggest you drain your carb float bowl; wouldn't hurt anything; may rid you of the annoying problem.
Damocles is offline  
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