Inverted Forks and Other Goodies That Will Work? - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #11 of 22 Old 10-24-2017, 01:38 PM
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My KLR Shock Post;

The stock shock is a budget emulsion design without hardened internals. It also has inadequate compression damping and springrate for the majority of KLR riders. The 2014.5 and up bikes have stiffer springs and damping but still maintain the 1980 emulsion design.

The problem with the stock shock is that the combination of the soft body and emulsion design means that under hard or long term use the oil turns to a nitrogen entrained mess contaminated with aluminum wear particles (grey foamy sludge) and the damping goes to crap.

Many people put heavier springs on the stock shock and while that helps set the sag properly (which is necessary, read: Suspension and Springs ) the stiffer spring overwhelms the already weak compression damping making the shock "pogo" and the damping situation even worse…particularly as the shock degrades.

Raising links are an option if your tall enough; the shorter links decrease leverage on the shock which effectively increases both springrate and damping. You still have the quality issues with the stock shock and the effect isn't adjustable (without changing links) but it's something to try for those on a budget.

The best solution is a quality aftermarket DeCarbon shock. There are many shocks available; Progressive, Touratech, Ricor, Cogent, Elka, etc. ....they range from $379.00 to $1000.00 plus. For reference a stock Kawi shock is around $800 from the dealer. The best value IMO is Cogent's Adventure; it's a high quality shock, hardened body, DeCarbon design, deflective disk damping and an Ohlins spring. www.motocd.com

I have the full Cogent set up (DDC's and springs up front and an Adventure and Moab on the rear ) of my two Gen1's and the difference in performance and capability is massive. Easily the most drastic functional change of the 50+ mods I've done to my bikes.
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post #12 of 22 Old 10-24-2017, 01:42 PM
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Rick from Cogent's description of the DDC's (it's from a Vstrom discussion but the principles are the same);


Our own product uses deflecting shims over ports to control compression and a spring popet to control rebound. With our setup, we were able to achieve better control over the compression force curve. Fork action is a product of string rate, damping and friction (mostly) and as suspension tuners, we want to design those things together in a way that makes our customers happy. People have differing needs and preferences. We have seen a lot of installations of all kinds of suspension components that give a result that is less than optimum. When designing the DDC for the'Strom, we started with a set of v Strom forks on our dyno and a specific damping profile in mind ( based on our experience, ride testing, comparisons and customer feedback). We tuned the damping by changing shims, bleed, oil wt and poppet springs until we achieved what we intended. After that we mounted the forks and started the road testing, by me and others. We continued making adjustments until we got the result we wanted. Our kits include springs, spacers, oil and DDC valves that come with instructions to provide a simple and pre-engineered fitment that helps our customers to replicate the intended setup. Customers are able to make adjustments to any of those parameters to do what they want. We are not making laws, just suggested recommendations. We are here to help with any custom needs.
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post #13 of 22 Old 10-25-2017, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
DDC Advantages:
- no drilling of the damper rods make the DDC's much easier to install
- installation is reversible should you want to return the bike to stock (to sell for eg.)
- the deflective disk damping is said to have more initial plushness and compliance than the spring poppet valve used on the Emulator for compression dampening
- ....and finally the one most people seem to miss: the DDC controls compression AND rebound damping whereas the Emulator completely relies on the stock rebound orifice for rebound. The DDC has to control both since the lighter oil which is used to bypass the compression orifices does the same to the rebound orifices so it was a design necessity but it allows for more flexibility on the rebound damping.
DDC it is. I think I'm going to keep the bike, but I like the sound of deflective disks a bit more.
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post #14 of 22 Old 10-27-2017, 05:21 PM
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You're diggin' deep, for someone who doen't even HAVE a KLR650 (yet), Daniel Kavcak!

Or . . . DO you?

Please tell us: DID you buy the new 2016 KLR650 you mentioned (on the dealer's lot)? If not, do you plan to? When?

"Inquiring minds want to know!"
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post #15 of 22 Old 10-31-2017, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
You're diggin' deep, for someone who doen't even HAVE a KLR650 (yet), Daniel Kavcak!

Or . . . DO you?

Please tell us: DID you buy the new 2016 KLR650 you mentioned (on the dealer's lot)? If not, do you plan to? When?

"Inquiring minds want to know!"
I wasn't the one buying the 2016...it'd be nice to have two bikes, but I'm just going to keep chipping away at my '93 Gen1.

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post #16 of 22 Old 10-31-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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@Damocles, that was @jazhielcit2
I was just saying that I thought they were better off getting the 2016 vs. the 2018 because of a $2000 savings or something like that.
$2000 bought me my...um...Subaru (lets not talk about that).

http://www.klrforum.com/off-topic-lo...klr-650-a.html

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Last edited by Daniel Kavcak; 10-31-2017 at 11:32 AM. Reason: I'm an idiot and I remembered how to tag people.
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post #17 of 22 Old 10-31-2017, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for blowing my own thread up, but what's a good front brake upgrade.
I don't know if my front master cylinder isn't providing enough pressure or if the caliper piston is shot.
I'm used to being able to "stoppie" with the front brake on bikes, but with mine, it just...slows it down.
I replaced my lines with stainless lines and the fluid is super clean now, but the front brake still stinks. Is this an inherent issue of the early KLR's or is it just mine?

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post #18 of 22 Old 10-31-2017, 02:20 PM
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Here is a braking thread that will help quite a bit,
http://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech...ter-brake.html

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #19 of 22 Old 10-31-2017, 02:53 PM
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It's an inherent issue....particularly for Gen1's. The standard "fix" is the Eaglemike SV caliper adaptor, a used Suzuki twin piston SV caliper (ebay), and a 320mm rotor (I use the EBC from EM 'cause I know it fits perfectly) add a SS brake line and voila!! a front brake that doesn't suck. Personally I feel that the stock master works just fine with the above mods.

....you may also wish to address fork dive and stiffness if you're planning on stoppies; EM fork brace and something to firm up the front suspension; Cogent DDC kit in my case.

Cheers,
Dave
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post #20 of 22 Old 11-01-2017, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Here is a braking thread that will help quite a bit,
http://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech...ter-brake.html
That was a huge help actually, and as quoted below and as Dave said, I think I'll end up snagging an SV650 setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
It's an inherent issue....particularly for Gen1's. The standard "fix" is the Eaglemike SV caliper adaptor, a used Suzuki twin piston SV caliper (ebay), and a 320mm rotor (I use the EBC from EM 'cause I know it fits perfectly) add a SS brake line and voila!! a front brake that doesn't suck. Personally I feel that the stock master works just fine with the above mods.

....you may also wish to address fork dive and stiffness if you're planning on stoppies; EM fork brace and something to firm up the front suspension; Cogent DDC kit in my case.

Cheers,
Dave
EBC stuff is awesome. I had their SM rotors and pads on my DRZ400 I made into a supermoto and loved their products. Does it matter what year SV650 I use?

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