Newbie: Oil/gas under alternator cover - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 12-29-2017, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Question Newbie: Oil/gas under alternator cover

Newbie here - so long story. We are dealing with a 2005 KLR modified to look like a vintage scrambler (Honda tank, custom seat, smaller front tire). Tried to do a search and came up blank.......Son bought bike a month ago and we have been working to try to get rid of a popping problem that is apparently the result of a too lean mix from a header install that previous owner did. Anyways that's another story but..possible related? Decided to check valve clearance since bike has 38K miles and likely had not been done in sometime and wanted to eliminate tight valve from possibility - things were in spec so we put the bike up until today when we could get to bike store for new gasket and thermostat (why not?) and change out coolant. In the process of rolling bike back into garage we leaned it over to left side (5 degrees perhaps) and gassy oil spilled out of the spot where the plug covering the stator bolt was. (had to take out this plug to get engine to TDC as you know). Anyways, we keep getting what looked like gas out of this hole when we lean bike over. THis morning I took off alternator cover to see what was going on and the remainder of the engine oil drained out. On talking to my son he said that he had been riding the bike before we did the valve adjustment and had dropped it on its right side playing around with some low speed turns. So, it looks like somehow gas got (has been getting) into the engine oil (he has not been turning petcock off when not riding (vac shut off not on engine since it has a vintage honda tank). So a number of things going on here........perhaps float valve shot and/or float is bad, leading to gas running into combustion chamber while sitting and then down into oil. But should there be oil in the alternator chamber???? Seems like that should all be dry??? I'm going out to take off carb as soon as I thaw out (its about 25 degrees here in Annapolis area). So my main question is:
1) should oil be in alternator chamber? If not how could it get there?
2) how would gas be getting into oil - I have seen some posts about airbox and crank vent issues and think that might be a problem here.
3) love the bike and the scrambler street look .........and I am fairly mechanically competent but this is baffling me!

thanks for your help and apologies in advance if this has been posted elsewhere! Frank
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post #2 of 10 Old 12-29-2017, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Just saw a post from 2010 that yes this is normal to have oil in the alternator side.......whew!!!!
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post #3 of 10 Old 12-29-2017, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Now on to the other issues - gas in oil which may be from the bike being laid down and the gravity petcock never turned off or carb float leaking............it never ends!!!!
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post #4 of 10 Old 12-29-2017, 03:47 PM
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With the petcock off open the drain screw at the bottom of the float bowl to drain the bowl.
Run a clear flexible tube from the barb at the bottom of the bowl up higher than the top of the bowl.
Turn the petcock on and watch the fuel rise in the tube. It should stop at the top of the bowl.
Let it sit for half and hour or so to see if the fuel rises higher.
If the fuel continues to rise (1/2 inch or so), the float needle and seat are leaking.

I clean the seat with a Q-tip.

Last edited by GoMotor; 12-29-2017 at 03:52 PM.
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-29-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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great suggestion. thank you for the help - waiting on gaskets from kaw and will work on it again next weekend. Frank
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post #6 of 10 Old 12-29-2017, 05:13 PM
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Yes the alternator is oil wet to lube the starter gears and sprag clutch. (And balancer bearings, balancer & cam chains & sprockets)

The EPA approved carb does Not have the brass over-flow stand pipe like dirt bikes and vintage bikes. If it floods the EPA wants us to fix it properly.
GoMotor forgot to mention, "use metal polish on a Q-Tip" to clean/polish the Non-replaceable float valve seat.

There is an Idle Air Cut-OFF diaphragm under the small round aluminum cover on the LH side of the carb. It and the plastic fuel & vent nipples are held on with a steel bracket and 2 Phillips screws.
There is a VERY Stout Spring under that cover.
A pin-hole in that little diaphragm will cause after-fire/popping in the Exhaust under trailing throttle.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 12-29-2017 at 05:16 PM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-03-2018, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you - good insight - I will have a look at it! Frank
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-17-2018, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetfrank View Post
Thank you - good insight - I will have a look at it! Frank
yes, the idle air diaphragm looks quite old and and original - any parts source for this without buying the entire rebuild kit - I just did the eagle mike KLX upgrade. thanks for the recommendation!
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-17-2018, 01:52 PM
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Genuine K #43028-0016 about $60 usd. I think K&L Supply reproduction part available from various sources/dealers. Less $$.

Kind of makes one wonder, "Why Don't the K&L carb kits come with the little diaphragm?".

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-20-2018, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Found a K&L diagram on ebay for 25 bucks - waiting for delivery and will then put everything back together. great help! thanks. F
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