1998 KLR 650 Carb problems - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 91 Old 12-29-2017, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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1998 KLR 650 Carb problems

I bought a carb kit for my KLR and removed the carb to clean and re-build it. I previously had a problem with the carb leaking if I did not turn the petcock off. Cleaned the carb, blew it out with air and installed the new kit. Carb float set at 17.5mm per specifications.
I installed the carb and the bike ran much better, idled fine and ran great through out the rpm range. It still leaks fuel if the petcock is not closed.
Removed the carb and played with it on the bench with a remote fuel tank. No matter what I do, fuel comes up around the venturi needle jet and dribbles out. I checked the float valve with piece of fuel line and air pressure. It seals with air while inverted. I have started checking the carb with just water and itcontinues to leak no matter the position of the float setting. I have installed 3 new float check valve needles and it still leaks. Valve seat has been cleaned with valve lapping compound and a Q-tip mounted in a drill.
What the hell am I missing here?????? simple design. Petcock has been replaced with a no vacuum version and the upper vent line on the carb is blocked off.

Help!!!!

Last edited by Doc279; 12-29-2017 at 08:09 PM.
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post #2 of 91 Old 12-29-2017, 08:27 PM
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Did you try the clear line from the bottom of the bowl, routed up along the carb, to see what the fuel level is?

I did not get your last PM; my box was full.

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post #3 of 91 Old 12-29-2017, 08:59 PM
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Try some 'finer' metal polish on the Q-tips. Then try the pricey Kawasaki 16030-1057 float needle. I've read that the cheap needles can be a problem.

(The Harley Davidson Sportster Keihin CV40, float needle might be the same?)

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post #4 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Did you try the clear line from the bottom of the bowl, routed up along the carb, to see what the fuel level is?

I did not get your last PM; my box was full.
I have not tried that yet Tom as I have the carburetor off the bike until I can get the leak stopped. I am using water from a remote tank to test with as I was really tired of smelling like gasoline. I have some clear tubing and will try that later today. I checked the float to see if it had any liquid inside of it and it does not. The float can be held underwater and it instantly pops to the top. The float needle seals with air pressure when I blow on the hose - yet I still have this leak when using the water??????

I do not see any visual cracks in the carb body. This has me stumped - I have rebuilt lots of carburetors over the years.
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post #5 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Try some 'finer' metal polish on the Q-tips. Then try the pricey Kawasaki 16030-1057 float needle. I've read that the cheap needles can be a problem.

(The Harley Davidson Sportster Keihin CV40, float needle might be the same?)
I will try the finer metal polish today. I bought the last float needle at the Kawasaki shop. It is identical to the other 2 that I have. No change - still leaks!
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post #6 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 09:36 AM
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I will try the finer metal polish today. I bought the last float needle at the Kawasaki shop. It is identical to the other 2 that I have. No change - still leaks!
Was that float needle individually bagged and tagged, complete with a bar-code by Kawasaki with the 16030-1057 number?

The shop could have purchased a bag of ten Chinese knock-offs!

pdwestman
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post #7 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Was that float needle individually bagged and tagged, complete with a bar-code by Kawasaki with the 16030-1057 number?

The shop could have purchased a bag of ten Chinese knock-offs!
It was in a small zip top bag with no part number on it. Same size identical needle with a rubber pointed tip. It was $12.50 from the shop. Guess that I got took?
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post #8 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 10:34 AM
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Not entirely! The oem needle has an msrp of $37.96.

I'm uncertain if the problem with the cheap knock-offs is centering of the Viton Tip or the firmness of it.
I have noticed that the cushion spring of the knock-offs is usually quite stiffer, which one would think might close a hair sooner. (Could it cause wear to the brass seat in the long run?)

Check an HD dealer for a genuine Keihin float needle price. Late 90's Sportster.

pdwestman
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post #9 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Not entirely! The oem needle has an msrp of $37.96.

I'm uncertain if the problem with the cheap knock-offs is centering of the Viton Tip or the firmness of it.
I have noticed that the cushion spring of the knock-offs is usually quite stiffer, which one would think might close a hair sooner. (Could it cause wear to the brass seat in the long run?)

Check an HD dealer for a genuine Keihin float needle price. Late 90's Sportster.
Damn that is one pricy float needle!!!! No wonder there is so many knock off's!
At this point - I would pay that price to get this resolved. I have way way way more time in it than I thought would be possible.
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post #10 of 91 Old 12-30-2017, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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I cleaned the seat this morning with fine metal polish and a q-tip in a drill. Did it twice and polished the side walls to make sure that the needle wasn't binding. Set the float level to 17.5mm and put the bowl on.
I installed a plastic tube to the bowl bottom and opened the drain needle. Hooked the water line up and opened the valve. Water came above the top of the entire carb and drained out the clear tube!!!!

Guess that I need an OEM 16030-1057 float needle???? Holy crap!
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