06 smoking and time for maintenance - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 60 Old 01-28-2018, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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06 smoking and time for maintenance

I am at a little bit of a loss on the actual point of this post. Sherman the '06 KLR (named after the tanks in Kelly's Heroes) starts great, pulls hard, has the correct thump sound. He, however, smokes like the Peaky Blinders on the deceleration ~ as I downshift through the gears. I stop and the cloud passes me. I initially thought exhaust valve oil seals. Easy on this motor? Or would it be the valve guides? The only service Manual I have is an '84 KLR 600 - kinda right but not for everything. Any Ideas where I can get the correct one? I am sure there is enough carbon buildup at this point on the inside to matter, so I am looking for a little guidance on the oil problem. I am really handy but not a mechanic. This is my first KLR.

I've been riding Sherman for many year. Speedo hasn't worked in five years, but at least he has always smoked! First, I think I love this bike and want to ride it forever. I am 6'6" at about 280 so seat height isn't a problem. I actually raised it 2". I've taken my adult sized 14 yr old daughter 2-up on the Shenandoah 500 without a hitch. I've had everything from v-Rod through BMW, Ninja turbos, Drag Bike, course bikes, vintage bikes, Bonneville, Ducatis, DRZs, XTs, ...I don't get rid of good equipment (like the '86 F-250 4WD heavy Diesel - my daily driver) just because it needs some "bigger than maintenance" work. This is my favorite Bike ever ... so far. Enough story - I think you get the idea.

It is maintenance season (all bearings, fluids, new tires) and valve adjustment time. Let the games begin! Eagle Mike: Dohickey, enricher, fork brace, Drill through Sub Frame, Low profile drain plug all done a long time ago along with, bark busters, crash bars, double (welded) bash plates and a Takasago re-laced front wheel for a meatier front tire as the kit approaches 1000 lbs on the trails. Might do the brake mod and even fix the spedo. maybe ... I need suggestions, video links, on how to get the smoking / oil problem fixed first ~ OR ~ adjust the valves, use sea foam in the gas and ride on! All thoughts and help appreciated!
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post #2 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 01:15 AM
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Intake Guides and/or Piston Rings.
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post #3 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Tanks for the quick note! Easy .... Hard?
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post #4 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 09:45 AM
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How many miles on the bike?

The forum here has tons of info, use the search function and I'm sure you'll find the info you need. YouTube also has a ton of videos.

Myself I'd be looking at doing a 685 kit on the engine. None of this stuff is too hard if you know the right end of a hammer, can read and follow instructions. Slow and steady wins the race.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #5 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 09:57 AM
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This would be the perfect time to go 685. All the parts are bolt on, very few specialized tools needed (torque wrench, and MAYBE ring setting tool). Send the head and cylinder to be reworked, pop in new piston/rings,.......good to go. Disassembly/assembly is not a job for a skilled mechanic (more like "handy puzzle solver"). Once you start taking it apart, take pictures,......of every faze. On assembly, go backwards in pictures. Get Clymer manual on Ebay.

Back in ancient history (before phones with cameras, before "service manuals", before Internet, .......BC!)......we actually WROTE down everything (on paper!), and put parts (screws, bolts, washers) in PAPER envelopes (ZIP locks didn't exist!), with notes, and labeled them "1,2,3.....". Tedious task to say the least. That was for the people like me, that loved machinery, but went to schools for something entirely different.

Go for it,.....you live in 21st century (you have "smart" phone, ZIP locks, service manual, proper tools,.....what else do you want!? ). People on this (and other boards) are friendly, and eager to help. If you get stuck,.....just open a beer, pop on the forum, ask the question, and by the time you are done with the beer, the answer will be here.
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post #6 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 11:36 AM
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unlikely to be guides/seals IMO; it's likely the ring/bore. My suggestion is to do the 685 from Eaglemike; he offers cylinder exchange. 658 forged piston kit I'd send him the head too (or send it to the Machine shop he uses; Engine Dynamics http://www.enginedynamics.com/driving.shtml )

Dave

Last edited by DPelletier; 01-29-2018 at 11:38 AM.
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post #7 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome help! More info ... Odometer reads 4,624 k. Didint work for 4 - 5 years I rode it so maybe 5k a year (we have 6 bikes)

Compression cold KACR engaged 110 ~ cold KACR defeated 150

Rings? ok? ... I thought it should be around 170...
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post #8 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 03:48 PM
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[QUOTE=Sherman;634161]Awesome help! More info ... Odometer reads 4,624 k. Didint work for 4 - 5 years I rode it so maybe 5k a year (we have 6 bikes)

Compression cold KACR engaged 110 ~ cold KACR defeated 150

Rings? ok? ... I thought it should be around 170...[/QUOTE



Methinks,.......bore/rings blowby. Definitely 685 time. Go for it.
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post #9 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Tore it all down. Cylinder looks like it would be cool with a quick hone. Skirt has so very minor superficial scratches. ( I can see them but can't feel them) Looks as though it had a ring stuck at the top at some point in its life. I can feel a ridge at the top of the bore. So now is decision time. Anyone know the specs of the bore to rings? (my clymers isn't here yet. LOL a day later ... haha)

Are there better rings out there for this other than OEM?

I am not looking for a big mod. I was strong enough to begin with. I appreciate the encouragement to do the 685 but if a set of rings and a gasket kit gets this back on the road for 20k more mile, I would rather put the money into the brakes this year. Guessing there is no point in doing the 661 if I am trading cylinders.

Setting up parts lists now awaiting advice from on high.
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post #10 of 60 Old 01-29-2018, 05:20 PM
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The problem is that the KLR cylinder has a propensity for bore distortion......which means that honing and rings is seldom a viable solution. ...that and the OEM rings are no longer available AFAIK.

Here's an old post from the late KLRCary on the subject;

What typically happens with the bore, is that at the bottom it ovals out. It's like if you were to put your hand on either side of the sleeve bottom, and squeezed it together. It's not wear in most cases, but distortion. Usually .02-.03mm, or .0008-.0012" . A few have been worse, but .02-.03mm is what I'd call "normal" for the KLR. It's not a huge amount, and any decent ring can deal with it. The KLR's oil ring is just barely able to. It would be better not to have any warpage at all, but it's the nature of the beast, and not easily or cheaply corrected. It's due to the mechanical design of the engine.

When you bore the KLR liner, whether for the 685, or just an oversize, you are boring an already warped sleeve. So you put a nice new round hole into a sleeve that has already warped the way it tends to, or wants to. The new bore then tends to stay round. The outside is out of round, but not the new bore. Also, it's been work hardened, and is more resistant to warp from that alone. That's the reason I mention heat cycling as being good during the break-in process on a new bike. If you can harden it early, it's less likely to warp as far.

The 685 alone really doesn't change this situation. It just has enough oil ring tension to deal with it. Testing has shown that it does not warp any more, or any less with the sleeve being thinner, even when used with a new unhardened liner.

The 705 liner is differant. Every attempt was made to resist the warping that the stock liner suffers. It's MUCH thicker at the bottom, where it counts most. It's marginally thicker above that. The champher that's in the OD of the stock sleeve is eliminated. That's a key weak spot of the old sleeve. Finally, the cryo treating process makes it more stabil to hold it's shape. With a stock piston used in that liner, I don't think it would warp at all.

Cary



Since then it's been pretty much proven that the rebored stock sleeve for the 685 tends to maintain it's roundness (as Cary opined) and cease being a problem for many miles. We don't recommend the 685 for additional power though it does give the bike a small boost, we recommend it because it's a proven fix for the oil burning issue. A side benefit is the reduced vibration due to the lighter reciprocating assy.

If you REALLY want to try honing and re-ringing, you'll need to get accurate measurements on the bore and source some rings - I think Paul mentioned a source the last time this came up.

I hate to see someone throw away good money and time on a fix that is unlikely to be satisfactory. Though this may not be what you want to hear, I hope this helps,

Dave

Last edited by DPelletier; 01-29-2018 at 05:23 PM.
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