Transmission issue? Clutch cable issue? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission issue? Clutch cable issue?

So, some of you may remember me. After a long drawn out (2 years almost) 'battle', I got my old '89 KLR running again. Here is the thread on that: http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wr...st-cranks.html (see last page to see what the fix was).

Over the last few weeks I've been fixing other stuff that needed to get done to get it truly road worthy. One of those things was the clutch cable (since some of it melted on the header pipe). I also replaced the adjuster for the clutch cable at the handle. However, now when I try to ride the bike it just revs. I can click through the gears but nothing happens.

So, questions:

1) Is my clutch cable not adjusted properly? I watch many videos when I was installing it and obviously I failed...my clutch lever is still very loosey goosey even though I've got the adjuster out as far as it'll go...
or
2) The used engine I purchased has a bad transmission? The engine was missing some clutch plates so I had my engine installer swap them from the old blown motor onto this used one.

Any help would be appreciated?

For those who are curious, here is my 'log' album of my adventure (lol) with this bike:

https://imgur.com/a/n5Utw/

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #2 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 01:24 PM
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Sounds like your clutch is not engaging. Do you have a full complement of clutch springs? Clutch spring machine screws tightened fully? Correct NUMBER of driving and driven clutch plates installed?

Does the clutch cable and actuator move freely when you squeeze and release the clutch?

You can drop the clutch case and observe whether the clutch plates are meshing.

A stop by a competent Kawasaki shop may be worthwhile for diagnosis and estimate of repair, IMHO.
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post #3 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Sounds like your clutch is not engaging. Do you have a full complement of clutch springs? Clutch spring machine screws tightened fully? Correct NUMBER of driving and driven clutch plates installed?

Does the clutch cable and actuator move freely when you squeeze and release the clutch?

You can drop the clutch case and observe whether the clutch plates are meshing.

A stop by a competent Kawasaki shop may be worthwhile for diagnosis and estimate of repair, IMHO.
Hey there old buddy who helped me with the spark issue...lol.

I haven't a clue what's in the case but I'm assuming the guy who swapped my engine matched it to what it should be as he had the whole thing from the other motor. I haven't opened that side cause I'm always weary of breaking something on this old thing...(my bike was 100% fine other than a dirty carb when I first bought it before some folks on another KLR forum told me I MUST do the doohickey...after I opened the stator cover the first time, the bike has never been the same lol).

The cable and actuator (I'm assuming that's the thing on the case that moves when I pull/release the clutch that the cable is connected too) work fine.

So if I take off the right cover after draining the oil and pull/release the clutch I should see it grabbing? How many plates are supposed to be in there? If I remove the oil filler cap I can see disks with gaps between them...maybe next time I'm over there I'll snap a pic.

You're sure I didn't just install the cable incorrectly where it's not tight enough for some reason?

Worst case that's what I'll end up doing (visit the dealer).

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #4 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 01:52 PM
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Ilya, with the clutch cable completely dis-connected from the actuator arm on the engine, shift-up to select 5th gear. Now attempt to rock the motorcycle fore & aft.

If the bike rolls, but the engine does Not turn over, you have an internal clutch problem. Take it back to the mechanic which supposedly replaced some of the plates. And ask him to repair his error.


If the engine turns over both directions, the clutch should be good & you may have a cable problem.
When rolling the bike backwards, one will also hear the starter motor rotating backwards. Don't freak out, that's normal. Rolling forward the starter clutch does Not engage, it just slips, no noise.

pdwestman
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post #5 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Ilya, with the clutch cable completely dis-connected from the actuator arm on the engine, shift-up to select 5th gear. Now attempt to rock the motorcycle fore & aft.

If the bike rolls, but the engine does Not turn over, you have an internal clutch problem. Take it back to the mechanic which supposedly replaced some of the plates. And ask him to repair his error.


If the engine turns over both directions, the clutch should be good & you may have a cable problem.
When rolling the bike backwards, one will also hear the starter motor rotating backwards. Don't freak out, that's normal. Rolling forward the starter clutch does Not engage, it just slips, no noise.
Hey there! Okay, I'll try this.

I'm assuming you want me to try starting it with the starter button right? Possibly a dumb ??? lol but want to make sure.

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #6 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 03:26 PM
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Not looking for you to start it.
Just put it in gear and rock the wheel against the engine.

Driving the engine with the wheel, instead of driving the wheel with the engine.
Either the clutch slips or it does not slip.

pdwestman
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post #7 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Not looking for you to start it.
Just put it in gear and rock the wheel against the engine.

Driving the engine with the wheel, instead of driving the wheel with the engine.
Either the clutch slips or it does not slip.
Gotcha. Understood.

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #8 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 06:03 PM
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If it doesn't slip in 5th gear, try 4th. Then try 3rd, 2nd, 1st.

If it doesn't slip in 1st gear with the cable dis-connected, it must be a cable problem, but I can't understand how.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 06:31 PM
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In post 1- 2nd paragraph, you seem to suggest this problem started after changing the clutch cable. Did the clutch work okay before changing the cable and the adjuster?

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post #10 of 219 Old 02-07-2018, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya View Post

The cable and actuator (I'm assuming that's the thing on the case that moves when I pull/release the clutch that the cable is connected too) work fine.
By this do you mean that the actuator comes up against a hard stop when the actuator arm is at a right angle to the engine? It should.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya View Post
If I remove the oil filler cap I can see disks with gaps between them...maybe next time I'm over there I'll snap a pic.
This is not right. There should be no gaps.

That clutch should have 7 fiber discs and 6 steel discs.

Look this article over. It may make your head explode, but it may be helpful.

The Amazing, Interesting, and Fascinating KLR650 Clutch Exposé, "What Were They Thinking?"

A picture of what you see in the oil filler hole would be helpful.
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