Still not there (A17) - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: In the West
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Still not there (A17)

So,...this morning I decided to fire it up (2003), and it came alive, but with an issue. It refused to fire with full choke, without touching the throttle. On the full choke, with partially open throttle, it fired, revved, but it sputtered, and didn't want to stay idling. It sounds/feels like the jets are dirty (which they are not), or there is an issue with fuel delivery. I cleaned the jets manually, and after I put them back, I soaked the carb with Seafoam (by forcing the Seafoam into the carb via fuel line). Seafoam was inside the carb for 24 hours, after which, I drained the carb, and primed it with fresh gas (by filling the carb manually via the fuel line).

My next step is to turn the carb sideways again, pull the jets, and see what's going on. Tank is squeaky clean on the inside, as is the petcock. Carburetor bowl is filling with fuel just fine, which tells me that vacuum operated petcock works as designed. The only "mod" I did so far (from stock), is "Decalifornication". I watched (and read) several posts on the web about it, and found two different approaches. One says to let BOTH lines coming out of the tank (blue and read under the seat) hang free, to act as vents. The other post says that the red line has to be capped. I decided to leave them both open, and routed them properly behind the engine, down to the ground. I don't see why the red line should be capped, because it serves only one purpose, to suck the gas fumes accumulated between the fuel level, and the top of the tank. These fumes are sucked by vacuum, and routed into the evap equipment. Once filtered, leftovers are fed into the airbox. BTW,.....that airbox inlet is plugged as it should be, so it doesn't suck outside air, and bypass the filter. Filter is also clean, and oiled (stock).

So,.....aside from pulling the jets, what do you Gentlemen think I should check also?

All and any input is appreciated.
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post #2 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 11:09 AM
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Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Daniel, Remove tank, remove plastic choke ferrel, remove Phillips screw on throttle cable bracket & disconnect cables, completely remove both carb clamps.
With Left thumb push the air inlet duct towards the right, to disengage from carb. Spiral the carb out of engine bay.

There are 3 little holes directly below the bottom edge of the throttle plate which receive fuel from the pilot jet & the external adjustable idle mixture screw & the passage way to all four of those outlets need cleaning. May need to soak carb body in carb cleaner or Original Pine-Sol!
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need to disassemble the carb, or soak/clean externally?

Also,....I just noticed fuel dribbling out of the "red" line from the gas tank (the one I found conflicting info on "capped or not capped")! AFAIK this hose is just sucking vapor from the tank, there should be no dribbling there! WTF?
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 12:25 PM
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Daniel, I use a very small wire, bent 90 degrees to help open the 3 tiny holes. Then back flush with aerosol carb cleaner & compressed air.

If with the pilot jet removed, mixture screw Closed and the straw of aerosol carb cleaner inserted into the pilot jet pocket, throttle plate held half open so one can confirm all 3 of the low speed outlets flow fully round streams of fluid, then disassembly & soaking not required.

The idle speed screw should uncover about a hole & a quarter to hole & a half. Pilot Mixture screw should be about 2 turns open.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 12:39 PM
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Red gas tank evap Return Pipe was not originally intended as an air vent. It will pee on your boot if you overfill the fuel tank higher than 5.7-5.8 gallons of fuel in the CARB approved tanks.

The RH or Blue pipe is the original external air vent to the little nipple on the 5:00 position of the fuel cap. The fuel caps have anti-spill valves inside. A non CARB fuel tank can be filled to the maximum of 6.1 gallons the 1st time and I have consumed 5.928 gallons with the aid of the super secret reserve.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #6 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 01:01 PM
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Danielsand: To thee, I doth commend:

http://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech...-overhaul.html

Valuable future, or present, reference.
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post #7 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Gentlemen,........I thank you all for your valuable, and thoughtful replies. YOU are what this forum is all about.

"Carb overhaul"......I read, studied, and absorbed everything written (and taped) about specifics of this particular carb, which I never overhauled before (I did MANY others). Carbs are all pretty much the same, but this is my first EVER that is vacuum activated. I've been riding fuel injected bikes since the 80s.

Anyway,.....I thought I can get away with tilting the carb, and cleaning the main and the pilot (a poor attempt at a shortcut). Now I pulled it off, took it apart, and found out that the "little holes" (partially covered with throttle plate), are indeed clean and unobstructed. Then I took off the bowl, and I promptly slapped myself in front of the mirror! When I was replacing the bowl the other day, float valve fell out, and it was freely swimming at the bottom of the bowl. Beginner's mistake.

Now the carb is taken apart (just in case), and it's soaking in Pinesol. Tomorrow, I'll hit it with the carb cleaner, air, and put it back together. It will be a while before I fire the bike again though. I found out that the choke cable is NOT easy to remove (Clymer's is very vague on that), and the wrench didn't fit in there. So I cut the SOB, and used the socket to remove the stump out of the carb. Now I have to order the brass plunger, and it will be a while before I get it.

I also trimmed, and capped the red line out of the tank, the blue one I routed into the battery drain on the side, which is not needed with this battery. Just so it looks neat.

In the meantime,.......I have gasoline that was dribbling on the floor, Seafoam that stinks to high heavens, and now I have to go and wash carpet, and make everything spic'n'span before she gets home, or I'll definitely hear about making the house "stinky".

Thank you again Guys.
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Last edited by Danielsand; 02-15-2018 at 01:44 PM.
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post #8 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 01:55 PM
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12mm crow-foot on an extension works really well to loosen or tighten the choke nut.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
12mm crow-foot on an extension works really well to loosen or tighten the choke nut.


Don't have anything like that. I just ordered Stead choke plunger, and will put it in while the carb is off the bike. I wanted to do this mod anyway, plastic pieces that need to be manipulated with some force sooner or later piss me off.
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post #10 of 19 Old 02-15-2018, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
12mm crow-foot on an extension works really well to loosen or tighten the choke nut.
+ 1! I bought a whole set of crow-foot wrenches (Chinese-manufacture; cost less than $ 10, IIRC) just to get a 12 mm crow-foot for this very purpose.

Another useful tool some have used . . . "bent" needle-nose pliers; picked up one on sale at a national-franchise auto parts and accessories store.

Re-threading the cable-end nut presents a daunting task, when the carb is on the bike . . . VERY close quarters. The threads are TAPERED, making mating critical.

I addressed the "choke" situation by installing a Drag Specialties "shorty" cable (intended originally for Harleys); I drilled a hole in the sidestand switch cover to mount the cable, placing the operating knob within easy reach from the saddle. No, doesn't interfere with legs; is not vulnerable to breakage in a fall. Cable tension is adjustable, when partial "choke" is desired.

An advantage of the shorty cable in contrast to the "elbow-bent" OEM cable--the nut, plunger, and cable are in a direct straight line to the carb, facilitating operation, removal, and replacement.

I replaced the plastic nut with a Stead engineering metal model; caution: The Stead product is 13 mm/1/2 inch hex; NOT 12 mm, the size of the OEM part.
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