Mechanical/Electrical Systems - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 02-21-2018, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Mechanical/Electrical Systems

It seems like most of this motorcycle is mechanically controlled. Now that I've had the bike for a bit and gotten to know a bit about how it operates, I've been wondering what electrical failures could actually cause the bike not to start? The only thing I could think of is that if you weren't getting power to your starter( or your starter was bad, starter system ) you wouldn't be able to get the bike to start, even then, I would assume you could roll it down a hill and it start it up( assuming all mechanical systems were in spec). This is not a trouble shooting post, just a bike thinking post.
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-21-2018, 07:30 PM
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Gen 1, 87-07 will kickstart or bump-start even with the battery removed!

Gen 2, 2008-up needs a well connected battery, with about 8-10 volts of power remaining, to power the ignition in order to bump-start or kick-start.

Which Gen are you riding?

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post #3 of 11 Old 02-21-2018, 09:50 PM
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Electrical component failure on the KLR is quite rare. Electrically caused failures to start are usually due to poor grounds or chafed wires and (primarily) failures of the safety switches. The safety switches don't really fail, but the get dirty and don't work.

If you have a bidet toilet seat in your home, keep your safety switches. If you pee on bushes and drink rye straight up, get rid of the safety switches.

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post #4 of 11 Old 02-22-2018, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
If you have a bidet toilet seat in your home, keep your safety switches. If you pee on bushes and drink rye straight up, get rid of the safety switches.
I REALLY like this. Just clicking "like" doesn't do it justice.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-22-2018, 07:40 PM
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A good wiring diagram for Generation 1 KLR650s exists on the Internet, Danielsand! The essentials for starting, and for running, the KLR650 are therein.

This link accesses just one version, many more are available, this one can be enlarged and it goes beyond the one in your Clymer manual:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0B...iN2E5ZTU5/edit

You will notice, the BATTERY circuit, and the IGNITION circuit, are totally independent of each other. Thus, the Generation 1 can be bump-started and run, even without a battery. The Generation 2 ignition depends upon battery voltage, so . . . not so much (although with sufficient speed I believe a Generation 2 can be bump-started also).

You will also notice a, "starter circuit relay," and a "starter relay." Both must function for an electric start, the former controlled by the safety switch circuit logic. Just as an aside: Your bike has a fan relay; the Generation 2 has none.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-23-2018, 03:00 AM
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As mentioned by Tom Schmitz above, Danielsand, and shown in the wiring diagram, the clutch/sidestand/neutral safety switch logic must be fulfilled (or defeated) for your bike to start. Otherwise, the starter circuit relay will not activate, and the starter relay (misnomer: "solenoid," a name for a neo-obsolete relay-cum-mechanical-starter-engagement-mechanism) cannot close and thus cannot send power to the starter motor. Reckon you COULD bypass the starter circuit relay, rendering it, "normally closed." Comments, anyone?

As to safety switch logic, the neutral switch wire runs perilously close to the countershaft sprocket; bears watching.

The Generation 1 (NOT Generation 2) engine kill mechanism is grounding the stator exciter coils' connection to the CDI unit, with either ENGINE STOP or IGNITION switch, as shown on the wiring diagram. Thus, any short-circuit (or open circuit) of this connection prevents engine running.

Now, NOT an electrical issue: Since you've read extensively of the KLR, Danielsand, you're doubtless aware Generation 1 KLRs remain particularly vulnerable to DOOHICKEY failure, possibly resulting in catastrophic collateral damage. Don't know if you've discussed your doohickey yet on the forum; unless the part is already upgraded (preferably with Eagle Mike lever and torsion spring, though lower-cost options exist), might be a good idea to perform the mod. Plenty of how-to videos exist, and some inmate will gladly loan you the special tools for the task without charge, should you desire to make the change. Kawasaki recommends a new rotor bolt when replacing the rotor, but the decision whether to re-use the original fastener remains yours.


Last edited by Damocles; 02-23-2018 at 08:45 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-23-2018, 09:37 AM
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My comment above about liking the post, was meant for the comparison between bidet toilets vs. bushes (not about defeating switches). I happen to like some "safety" switches. I do know how to defeat them, but I don't (unless they start giving me problems). Sometimes some of them get dirty, and I clean/lube them, but if they quit working altogether, I bypass them.

As far as bidets......I have three in the house! My girls like them I guess.

As far as idler shaft lever...... that was purchased back in November along with the torsion spring (EM product, off of Ebay), and the gaskets. Did not put it in yet, waiting for the season to change. With less than 1300 miles on the clock, the bike doesn't need it with any urgency. It will be done before the mileage hits 1500 though. The only problem is,......come Spring, I'll be too busy (and tired at the end of the day) to do it myself, but I already talked to the owner of the shop in town who will do it in couple of hours while I'm there. I recon sometime in May.

Thank you for all your advices/concerns, and I hope you replaced that hair on which the sword is hanging?
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-23-2018, 10:27 AM
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Whatís wrong with simply maintaining your bike (and safeties)?

I appreciate the sidestand safety, the old Goldwings didnít come with one. Several times Iíve left the stand down causing close calls and quite a surprise when it hits the ground.

The vacuum petcock is also a welcome feature. Be nice the oldwings had it, plenty of engines have been hydrolocked resulting in bent rods.
Excercise it occasionally.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-23-2018, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danielsand View Post
I REALLY like this. Just clicking "like" doesn't do it justice.
agreed x 1000


LOL

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post #10 of 11 Old 02-23-2018, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
Whatís wrong with simply maintaining your bike (and safeties)?

I appreciate the sidestand safety, the old Goldwings didnít come with one. Several times Iíve left the stand down causing close calls and quite a surprise when it hits the ground.

The vacuum petcock is also a welcome feature. Be nice the oldwings had it, plenty of engines have been hydrolocked resulting in bent rods.
Excercise it occasionally.
to each their own; I can't stand ANY of the safety switches......maybe it's because of my long dirtbike background. My KLR's have the clutch safety, sidestand safety and vacuum petcocks removed......just less stuff to go wrong and I don't need them. I guess I'm a K.I.S.S. kind of guy when it comes to bikes that I ride hundreds of miles away from civilization.

Maintenance? that'll work for the clutch but the sidestand switch is directly in harms way and if you ride offroad it's failure is only a matter of time - putting a part that can cause the bike not to start in that location is problematic at best.

....just my 2 cents.


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