Dropped a nut - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-14-2018, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2017
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Dropped a nut

While adjusting valves, down the cam chain hole.

It stopped on the first gear it found on the way down, then fell again and again until it was out of sight.
Now I'm trying to confirm its exact position hoping it didn't fall down in the oil sump,
but it's hard to do with the rotor in the way.

I cannot for the love of me find a puller and a crowfoot wrench anywhere around here,
I might have to order them from eagle mike but being in Italy that would turn out to be more expensive than just hauling the bike to a mech.

Any idea where I would be able to source these tools in europe?
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-14-2018, 07:11 PM
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A heavy truck repair shop may have a 22mm X 1.50mm pitch wheel Lug BOLT to use as the puller and they should surely have a oxy/acetylene torch to heat and bend a commonly available 32mm combination spanner wrench to hold the rotor.

pdwestman
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-15-2018, 08:35 AM
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Like this.
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My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #4 of 8 Old 04-15-2018, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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AH! ahah! managed to fish it out.
Looks like I won't need to invest on more tools.

I did fiddle a bit with the rotor in the proces so I might have to adjust the the timing,
how many times should I turn the crank (started from TDC, cam lobes facing outward) to go back to TDC? twice or once?
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-15-2018, 02:28 PM
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The timing doesn’t change when you remove the rotor. That is unless you had the cams out at the same time.
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My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #6 of 8 Old 04-15-2018, 03:24 PM
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Glad you got it out!

I had a similar time dodging a bullet when I managed to grab a bolt with a magnet after I dropped it into the oil pan of our Suburban. What a relief!

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-15-2018, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Passt View Post
AH! ahah! managed to fish it out.
Looks like I won't need to invest on more tools.

I did fiddle a bit with the rotor in the proces so I might have to adjust the the timing,
how many times should I turn the crank (started from TDC, cam lobes facing outward) to go back to TDC? twice or once?
TWICE; the camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft.

Yet, as KLR4evr posts above, removing and replacing the rotor doesn't affect valve (or ignition) timing, as long as you set the Woodruff key in its appropriate slots. There's no "adjustment" provision for timing on a stock KLR650, unless you jump teeth on the camshaft sprocket.

Some report significant gains in performance from advancing the exhaust cam one sprocket tooth; others remain somewhat skeptical of the claim and its magnitude . . .
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-16-2018, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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I did take the cams off, while the rotor is still on.

Just making sure before I make any more mistakes, the exhaust cam was already advanced by PO,
I think i'll just keep it like that since the bike seems to run just fine.

Hope it starts in a couple of days when I'm done with maintenance
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