Run without balancer chain guard? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-26-2018, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 22
Question Run without balancer chain guard?

1990

I just found that one of the mounts/bolt holes for the balancer chain's center chain guard is broken. (It's the guard that wraps around the crank in the middle, held by two bolts.) Looks to me like I could run fine without it. I can see how it would help protect the motor with a sloppy old chain. My chain is new though and very tight...?

Or I could get creative with jb weld and try to fix the mount.

Or the left engine case is done for.
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-26-2018, 10:26 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Have you owned the bike since new?
Can you explain how the tower got broken?
Have you or Are you installing an Eagle Mike Doo-Hickey & Torsion spring? How many miles are on the engine? How often have you adjusted the balancer chain?

I recommend that the balancer chain only be adjusted after rotating the engine in proper direction of rotation & turned to the original assemble point of TDC. This gets all of the slack & flyweights on the proper side of the system.

I've seen pics of other KLR's with if I remember correctly the forward mounting tower broken out of the case. And I've also pondered the possibility of using J-B Weld to reattach those towers. Cleanliness of the metals in & around the fracture line is paramount. But I believe doable.
I think I recall seeing about 3 unused threads still in those cases. So between epoxy in & around the fracture and 3 thread longer bolt, it should be acceptable.
Coat bolt threads in the upper & lower portion of the tower with Vaseline or other thread release compound, and install bolt to near flush at edge of fracture line.
Attach the broke piece with very thin coat of J-B in the fracture and bolt Lightly. Then lay J-B around tower and allow epoxy to cure 24 hours.
I'd recommend doing this epoxy job with engine/bike on its side, near level.

If one allows the EM Doo & Torsion Spring to do their job of controlling the chain slack every 3000-5000 miles, the balancer chain should never strike or rub hard enough on that slider/guide hard enough to re-break the epoxy. The mounting bolts should only be installed to Proper Torque with low strength Blue Loc-tite!

Engine cases are a Matched SET! Do not try to purchase or use a mis-matched set!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 04-26-2018 at 10:28 AM. Reason: added last line
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-26-2018, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 22
I blame previous owners. I bought the bike a few years ago, first thing I did was a new balancer chain and eagle Mike doohickey upgrade. The chain that came out was so loose, I've never seen a metal chain stretched so far on any kind of machinery anywhere. So it was probably banging into those chain guards for a long time, stressing the mount.
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-27-2018, 10:19 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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So I'm guessing that you will be installing a NEW Guide with this repair, so that there will be zero distortion or mis-alignment of the guide to stress the epoxy repair?

Did I remember correctly that it might be the forward tower & are there 2-3 threads still in the case?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-28-2018, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2016
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Correct, it is the forward/lower tower, and looks like just a few threads there.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-07-2018, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 22
Hmm 45$ for a new guide.

My little sculpture looks good. Anyone know if threadlocker blue affects JBweld ? I googled but found nothing.
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