Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Have you owned the bike since new?
Can you explain how the tower got broken?
Have you or Are you installing an Eagle Mike Doo-Hickey & Torsion spring? How many miles are on the engine? How often have you adjusted the balancer chain?
I recommend that the balancer chain only be adjusted after rotating the engine in proper direction of rotation & turned to the original assemble point of TDC. This gets all of the slack & flyweights on the proper side of the system.
I've seen pics of other KLR's with if I remember correctly the forward mounting tower broken out of the case. And I've also pondered the possibility of using J-B Weld to reattach those towers. Cleanliness of the metals in & around the fracture line is paramount. But I believe doable.
I think I recall seeing about 3 unused threads still in those cases. So between epoxy in & around the fracture and 3 thread longer bolt, it should be acceptable.
Coat bolt threads in the upper & lower portion of the tower with Vaseline or other thread release compound, and install bolt to near flush at edge of fracture line.
Attach the broke piece with very thin coat of J-B in the fracture and bolt Lightly. Then lay J-B around tower and allow epoxy to cure 24 hours.
I'd recommend doing this epoxy job with engine/bike on its side, near level.
If one allows the EM Doo & Torsion Spring to do their job of controlling the chain slack every 3000-5000 miles, the balancer chain should never strike or rub hard enough on that slider/guide hard enough to re-break the epoxy. The mounting bolts should only be installed to Proper Torque with low strength Blue Loc-tite!
Engine cases are a Matched SET! Do not try to purchase or use a mis-matched set!
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!
Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
Last edited by pdwestman; 04-26-2018 at 10:28 AM.
Reason: added last line