Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Mechanical tappets should have a little tic,tic,tic. Verses hydraulic tappets which 'should be' silent. Some KLR people suggest, "slappy valves are happy valves", Not I.
I personally try to shim for either a lightly snug fit on the widest feeler size or settle for a perfect to loose fitting 1 size under Max. That way I am never beyond maximum specs.
An overhead cam, shim & bucket system will always wear the valve faces & valve seats faster the the cam and bearings should ever wear, so the system tends to always tighten up on the clearances. (About every 10-20k miles) Unless other terrible things happen. Such as improper air filter servicing, melted air box due to exhaust leakage or heaven forbid, lack of sufficient engine oil volume/flow. (notice I didn't say pressure)
The Cam Chain Tensioner is an Automatic spring loaded unit which you had to disturb at least the spring to do a valve tappet adjustment.
The Engine Balancer Chain adjuster locking Lever (aka, Doo-Hickey) on the other hand needs to be Manually loosened to allow the spring to do its duty.
I strongly urge people to turn the flywheel bolt CCW til TDC before making a doo-hickey adjustment. This allows the balancer weights and all of the chain slack to be on the proper side of things. Hot, Cold or luke-warm, doesn't matter. But only 70 inch pounds on the locking bolt please.
ps, Did you use a 1/4" drive Inch Pound Torque Wrench to torque your camshaft bearing caps to 106 INCH Pounds?
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!
Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 83,000+ miles & counting
Last edited by pdwestman; 06-16-2018 at 07:41 PM.