Valve noise after oil change - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 18 Old 06-16-2018, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Valve noise after oil change

Hey guys I did my valve adjusting on my 97 it has 18k miles on it. I set the valves to the loose end of the specs on all 4. One exhaust was at 0.050 before I started and one intake was a slight tight as well. I adjusted 3 shims. I didn't notice anything weird during the initial test ride but then I changed the oil and filter and I hear some valve noise. I did the screwdriver to the ear thing and sounds like the tapping is mostly the right side primarily. I didn't jam the feeler through it just a little resistance like the two magazines idea.

Is it weird or can I ride it? Please help I'm going to ride the dempster this summer. It seems pretty loud. When she cools off I'm going to recheck the clearances.

Pre adjust
Exh 005/010"
Intake 004/005"

Post adjust (without start just cranked by wrench a couple times)
Exh 010/010"
Intake 008/007"
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post #2 of 18 Old 06-16-2018, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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I wanted to emphasize that I didn't hear too much noise before I changed out the oil with fresh oil and the noise seems to get louder as the bike gets hotter. Does the cam chain tensioner get done on a hot or cold engine?

Last edited by dimension4; 06-16-2018 at 01:56 PM.
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post #3 of 18 Old 06-16-2018, 07:38 PM
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Mechanical tappets should have a little tic,tic,tic. Verses hydraulic tappets which 'should be' silent. Some KLR people suggest, "slappy valves are happy valves", Not I.

I personally try to shim for either a lightly snug fit on the widest feeler size or settle for a perfect to loose fitting 1 size under Max. That way I am never beyond maximum specs.
An overhead cam, shim & bucket system will always wear the valve faces & valve seats faster the the cam and bearings should ever wear, so the system tends to always tighten up on the clearances. (About every 10-20k miles) Unless other terrible things happen. Such as improper air filter servicing, melted air box due to exhaust leakage or heaven forbid, lack of sufficient engine oil volume/flow. (notice I didn't say pressure)

The Cam Chain Tensioner is an Automatic spring loaded unit which you had to disturb at least the spring to do a valve tappet adjustment.

The Engine Balancer Chain adjuster locking Lever (aka, Doo-Hickey) on the other hand needs to be Manually loosened to allow the spring to do its duty.
I strongly urge people to turn the flywheel bolt CCW til TDC before making a doo-hickey adjustment. This allows the balancer weights and all of the chain slack to be on the proper side of things. Hot, Cold or luke-warm, doesn't matter. But only 70 inch pounds on the locking bolt please.

ps, Did you use a 1/4" drive Inch Pound Torque Wrench to torque your camshaft bearing caps to 106 INCH Pounds?

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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 06-16-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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post #4 of 18 Old 06-16-2018, 08:49 PM
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I have not had an oil change cause an increase in noise. But, sometimes I listen a little more closely while looking at the new oil foam a little in the sight glass.

While you are rechecking take a look at the automatic compression release on the right end of the exhaust cam. They can make some noise.
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post #5 of 18 Old 06-17-2018, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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I put a video on YouTube if that helps

https://youtu.be/KoNbWwbcD7o

By hole in your air box do you mean on the engine side of the filter because I ran mine without the little door for years and never thought twice since it had a filter

Last edited by dimension4; 06-17-2018 at 01:36 AM.
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post #6 of 18 Old 06-17-2018, 09:32 AM
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Sounds like an exhaust leak to me.

2016 KLR 650
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2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
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post #7 of 18 Old 06-17-2018, 12:19 PM
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Sounds pretty normal for possibly a loose fitting .010 inch feeler on the the exhaust tappets.

Clean side / under side of air filter box needs an occasional inspection because of the exhaust pipe joint behind the rear brake reservoir. It is possible to build a better heat shield as seen here, by our own Tom Schmitz.
Melted Reservoir, Dogs! (Airbox, too)

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 18 Old 06-21-2018, 09:19 AM
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Noisy valves are happy valves. They tighten up over time and get quieter. That's why we adjust them.

1986 Honda TLR 200 Reflex
2002 Ducati Monster 750S < -- For Sale
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post #9 of 18 Old 06-21-2018, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys I pulled the valve cover again and double checked the clearance. I couldn't get 0.011 through the exhaust and I couldn't stick 0.009 through the intake. So I think those are ok. I don't think my oil was overfilled because the bubble was at the very top of the line but I drained about 200-400ml out and now the oil is definitely in between the marks. I check it with the bike level, right? The noise got quieter with reducing the oil level. I was wondering, could someone explain Why does the valve noise calm down slightly with middle oil level? I have a decibel app on my phone I should've taken a before and after

Last edited by dimension4; 06-21-2018 at 10:42 PM.
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post #10 of 18 Old 06-21-2018, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Btw comment I had a hole in the dirty side of the airbox which I patched with some aluminum sheet and silicon sealant. The clean side checked out. I had the subframe off to weld a crack so I did the airbox repair then. I put the clean side carb boot on with some #2 rubber sealant and I also smeared a little on the seam between the two plastic halves of the clean side. Probably OCD overkill but whatever I'm about to head north to canol... dempster, and AK. Long ways from any parts up there.
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