Water pump issue - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-24-2018, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Unhappy Water pump issue

Hi folks,

Long time lurker/sometimes poster and you folks are great. Anywho.

Iím going into my third time replacing my water pump seal. Iíve watched the videos, read the how-toís and yet still manage to get a crack on the stinking porcelain seal/washer that goes on the impeller.

First time: torqued it to the specs and started dripping 5 mins after I fired her up.

Second time: tightened it via the ďfeelĒ method. I.e. the moment you feel the piston start to move. Ran for about 20 mins then started dripping.

Im kind of at my wits end with this thing. (To the point that I thinking about taking it to a shop and letting them do it.).

Also, the cracks are all on the outer ring. (The part that sits on the rubber seal which shouldnít be under stress, even if I did over tighten it)

It could just be my luck with getting bad parts/damaged via shipping method, but Iíve inspected it each time before installing didnít notice anything.

The shaft doesnít look bent at all. The marks on the porcelain are a perfect circle so I donít believe thatís the issue.

Concerns:
-bent shaft (how can you tell?)
-bad impeller (out of balance)

Any advice would be great.

Vaportrail

2002 KLR 650
Mods:
-22 cent
-brand new top end (still in break in period since this thing keeps leaking)
-Lexx exhaust
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-25-2018, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,257
I use silicone dielectric grease to lubricate the rubber and the white ceramic disc so the rubber slips readily into the impeller. I also use a very thin coat of dielectric grease on the black face of the waterpump seal for initial lubrication rather than only antifreeze.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-25-2018, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Thanks. Iíll give that a try.

Iím also going to order a different part brand and hopefully the shipper doesnít do an ďAce Ventura, HDS shipping company jobĒ on it.

-Vaportrail
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-25-2018, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kelowna, B.C.
Posts: 2,236
I only use OEM parts for those seals.

2 cents,

Dave
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-15-2018, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
I only use OEM parts for those seals.

2 cents,

Dave
Sorry itís taken so long for me to get back to this, but life gets in the way, often for me.

Man you nailed that one on the nose. I ordered the OEM seal and let me tell you I can see the difference.

I snagged my calipers to take some measurements.

The aftermarket version of the mechanical seal is .5mm shorter on the bottom side and .5mm taller on the spring/impeller side. (Measured from the lip catch to the bottom, and lip catch to the top)

Thatís a huge difference on such an important seal. On the bottom side itís not pushing the oil seal as tight as it should and on the top side itís pushing harder on the ceramic seal on the impeller.

Something tells me third time is the charm. Of course life got in the way again, so I not fully be able to re-assemble for another 2 weeks.

Thanks again folks,

Vaportrail
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-15-2018, 07:25 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,257
The base of the water seal does NOT touch the oil seal, if the oil seal is properly installed! There is a small clearance between them, about 4 mm or 1/8th inch I'd suggest.

You should confirm that the weep hole Between the oil seal and the water seal is OPEN for drainage of either fluid to escape if either seal is leaking either type of fluid.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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