Electrical issue: battery dies (Assistance Needed!) - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 07-14-2018, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 15
Question Electrical issue: battery dies (Assistance Needed!)

2004 KLR650. Love the bike. Having some electrical issues. I'm new to electrical stuff so I could really use some assistance with things explained really simply.

I recently found my battery dead after the bike sat for about 4 days. When I turn on the ignition the neutral light wouldn't come on and the engine wouldn't turn over. Completely dead. I jump started it and it ran fine, so I drove it home. As soon as I got home I turned the key off and back on. Dead. No neutral light or anything. Seems like the stator kept the engine running but wouldn't charge the battery. I tried charging the battery at home but when checked against a load tester it read "bad."

At the time I assumed my 3-year old battery gave up the ghost so I bought brand new one. Everything was great for the next two weeks. Then again it sat 4 days it was once again dead as a doornail. I guess it wasn't a battery problem after all.

So now I have to diagnose the problem? Something draining the battery when it sits (parasitic drain)? A bad alternator? Something else? The service manual says to start checking continuity with all the wires, but this is new to me. I don't even have a voltmeter or ammeter, although I could buy them.

Always wise to check the simplest and easiest things first, before tearing into the alternator. Where to start?
FYI: I don't have any aftermarket electrical components, except Battery Tender plug connected to the battery, which I only use when stored for the winter.
zeimet1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 07-15-2018, 01:21 AM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,261
I would start by buying a volt meter. A multi tester would include volts, ohms, amps and several other measurements, but volts and ohms are what is most often measured. A cheap one will work fine.

Check the volts across the battery terminals with the engine running in neutral. The charging system should be supplying around 13.6 to 14.6volts to the battery depending on the engine speed. If the reading is lower, say 12.6 or less, the charging system is not charging the battery.
dan filipi likes this.

Last edited by GoMotor; 07-15-2018 at 01:26 AM.
GoMotor is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 07-15-2018, 01:08 PM
3rd Gear
 
Toney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Oliver Springs TN
Posts: 762
Think of the wiring as branches of a tree. The "trunk" is the positive battery terminal. A draw is when one "limb" is touching the ground. The main "branches" have fuses that you can use to "cut the limb loose" and see if the draw goes away. Get a voltmeter and youtube:

"How to test a battery for a power draw".

I remove all the fuses and connect a voltmeter. Then add the fuses one at a time until a draw appears (or not). Then see what's on that "branch".

BUT!!!! DON'T RULE OUT A SECOND BAD BATTERY! JUST BEAUSE IT'S NEW DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD!
dan filipi likes this.

ďTake the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.Ē Hitchens
Toney is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 Old 07-15-2018, 02:01 PM
3rd Gear
 
dan filipi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Van Nuys Cali
Posts: 615
Garage
They always say the ďwet cellĒ batteries should be fully charged before use. Think Iíve done that only once in all my years but itís worth a try. If itís an AGM battery, this might not be needed but I do it now anyway with an AGM approved charger.

After using AGM, My days of using conventional batteries that require regular maintenance are over for me after putting one in my Goldwing and having it piss acid on the chrome exhaust when the vent hose split and came loose.

2016 KLR 650
2017 BMW S1000RR (traded in for
2018 Ducati V4S
1983 GL1100 Goldwing
2017 Yamaha R1
dan filipi is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 07-15-2018, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 15
I borrowed a multimeter and made a few tests so I have more information:

1) I charged the battery overnight and it read over 13v so I didn't ruin it.

2) I tested the battery with the engine running and it read even higher, like 14 or 15v. (I can't remember exactly but good.)

3) I tested the negative terminal to ground, which should read zero. (Right?) It read .02v. Does that mean I have a parasitic draw somewhere?

Seems like there are dozens of wires and I'm not even sure how to test each one, or what the test numbers mean. Am I missing anything obvious, or easy? Would it make sense to have a shop track down this electrical gremlin?
zeimet1 is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 07-15-2018, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toney View Post
Think of the wiring as branches of a tree. The "trunk" is the positive battery terminal. A draw is when one "limb" is touching the ground. The main "branches" have fuses that you can use to "cut the limb loose" and see if the draw goes away. Get a voltmeter and youtube:

"How to test a battery for a power draw".

I remove all the fuses and connect a voltmeter. Then add the fuses one at a time until a draw appears (or not). Then see what's on that "branch".

BUT!!!! DON'T RULE OUT A SECOND BAD BATTERY! JUST BEAUSE IT'S NEW DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD!
Hmmm... this makes sense. I have one big fuse under the seat--I think that's the only fuse in the system. I gave it a check with my eyes and it looks just fine.
zeimet1 is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 07-15-2018, 07:18 PM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,261
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeimet1 View Post
I borrowed a multimeter and made a few tests so I have more information:

1) I charged the battery overnight and it read over 13v so I didn't ruin it.

2) I tested the battery with the engine running and it read even higher, like 14 or 15v. (I can't remember exactly but good.)

3) I tested the negative terminal to ground, which should read zero. (Right?) It read .02v. Does that mean I have a parasitic draw somewhere?

Seems like there are dozens of wires and I'm not even sure how to test each one, or what the test numbers mean. Am I missing anything obvious, or easy? Would it make sense to have a shop track down this electrical gremlin?
It would help if you recorded your voltage reading down to the 10th of a volt and for engine off readings wait 15 minutes for the battery to rest and the charge to settle and the reading to quit dropping.

1) 13v or so could be 13v or 13.9v, but anything over 12.7v with the ignition off and the battery rested is out of range.

2) 13.7 to 14.5 is a good charging voltage showing the charging system is good.

3) 0.02v drop from the negative terminal to ground is not bad depending on exactly where you put the probes. Try measuring from the (negative) lead terminal to the clamp on that terminal.
GoMotor is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 07-16-2018, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
It would help if you recorded your voltage reading down to the 10th of a volt and for engine off readings wait 15 minutes for the battery to rest and the charge to settle and the reading to quit dropping.

1) 13v or so could be 13v or 13.9v, but anything over 12.7v with the ignition off and the battery rested is out of range.

2) 13.7 to 14.5 is a good charging voltage showing the charging system is good.

3) 0.02v drop from the negative terminal to ground is not bad depending on exactly where you put the probes. Try measuring from the (negative) lead terminal to the clamp on that terminal.
For #1 my reading with the ignition off and in a rested position was 13.8v. With the ignition key on and headlight on high beam it read 12.8v.
For #2, I forgot to record the voltage but it's in the 14.5 range, well above the resting voltage.
For #3 I tested the way you suggested. I got .02v-.03v (or amps?) but I have no idea if that's negligible or important.

Before going to bed last night it tested 13.10v. This morning it read 13.11--so it didn't drop overnight. Very puzzling.

Lastly, not sure if this is important but for completeness the two times it gave me trouble after being parked it was parked in the "Handlebar locked" position, extreme left and extreme right. Can't imagine why this would be relevant but thought I would mention it.
zeimet1 is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 07-16-2018, 12:38 PM
4th Gear
 
GoMotor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,261
From your readings it seems like the battery is good and the charging system is good.
The 0.02 volts at the ground clamp is not a big deal, but I would remove and clean the clamp and post if it were mine.
GoMotor is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 07-16-2018, 02:24 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,604
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeimet1 View Post

Lastly, not sure if this is important but for completeness the two times it gave me trouble after being parked it was parked in the "Handlebar locked" position, extreme left and extreme right. Can't imagine why this would be relevant but thought I would mention it.
BINGO!

Gen 1 models have TWO handlebar LOCK ignition switch positions! LOCK & PARK LOCK (P).

PARK LOCK turns the tail light on for Temporary parking at night to keep cars from trying to take your space with your Bike IN IT! Say maybe 30 minutes to get some groceries?
DPelletier likes this.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
pdwestman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
#battery, #electrical, #klr650, #parasitic

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Assistance List klr4evr KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 3 01-15-2017 07:48 AM
A request for assistance in gathering data Normk KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 18 02-18-2015 11:03 AM
In need of diet assistance Paper The Off Topic Lounge 30 05-15-2011 10:49 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome