KLR is FKed what pieces did I find in my engine? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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KLR is FKed what pieces did I find in my engine?

I need some Help KLR is having serious engine trouble I've been told a lot of things that could be wrong. In hopes it was a failed balance tensioner I just did that tonight. Only to find the doohickey had already been moded and the spring was fine. I found a loose piece of plastic and metal around the sump in the left side engine near the sump. Also alot of metal flake at the oil filter. Any guesses? Seems like it actually might be bottom end ! Help ME!
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post #2 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 09:43 PM
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I think that I see a miss-placed flywheel woodruff key and a Black Plastic unknown square.

Have you drained your engine oil? If so, how much did you drain out?

First place to look for source of metal flack found on oil filter is the RH Exhaust camshaft bearing, especially if one drained less than 1 quart of oil out of engine!

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post #3 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Shit that's the woodruff key? Was wondering what the Grove was for on the inside of the flywheel is that where this piece goes? Also there was some clear scraping in the left side engine cover from the balancer chain and even after adjusting the tensioner the chain still seemed to be in direct contact with the case WTF! Is the chain worn out? What did I do
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post #4 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Also the black plastic looked the same as the chain guides in the motor, but I wasn't able to find anywhere it had broken
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post #5 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 10:10 PM
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If the flywheel was not Real Close to properly indexed on last assembly it would not have run well, if at all. Did you drop the woodruff key?

What is the actual problem?

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post #6 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Bike ran like crap then one day made a loud noise at high rpm , then rpm dropped off and immediately picked back up. Has had some nasty vibrations and rpm drop under acceleration sounds terrible alot of klacking and knocky noise. Could this be a Head issue, I'm starting to suspect it may be bottom end. How do I correctly line up the flywheel with woodruff key and get the timing right in the left side of side of engine?
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post #7 of 21 Old 08-04-2018, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Will be taking back apart and installing woodruff key tomorrow and also looking at the camshafts and journals for damage. HELP ME
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post #8 of 21 Old 08-05-2018, 12:28 AM
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After Wood-ruff Key is replaced, check the camshaft bearing journals and if they're OK also check the compression. There is always the possibility that the Camshaft Bearing Journal(s) are damaged. But from your description, the self re-indexing of things due to the absence of the Wood-ruff Key may have allowed the Piston to come into contact with one or more of the Valves. This would be a bad thing. Low engine compression would be an indication of this. As long as you have the Valve Cover off to check the Camshaft Bearing Journals you can disable the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) in order to get a valid engine compression reading. If I had to guess (and I am guessing), the bit of plastic looks like a part of the Cam Chain Guide that fits and pivots on the front side of the Cam Chain between the Cylinder Head and the Cylinder.
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post #9 of 21 Old 08-05-2018, 12:45 AM
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Okay, real quick: You've found metal parts that appear to be (or at least used to be) part of the engine, inside the case. Your bike made a loud noise at speed and started malfunctioning. What it sounds like is that you want to put the woodruff key back in and start the thing up. Please don't do that.

That said, you're gonna need to do a compression test like blue hwys said above. The KACR needs to be disabled before doing so. Tom has a great youtube video below, detailing the function of it.


Now would also be the time to pop the clutch cover off and take a look at the oil screen. If you haven't done so already, you're probably going to find some rubbery crap in there, which isn't too bad. What you want to look out for is metal bits and shavings, which indicate that your engine is trying to grind itself to pieces.
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Last edited by insan3guy; 08-05-2018 at 12:58 AM.
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post #10 of 21 Old 08-05-2018, 02:17 AM
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To @bluehighways point, a compression test will tell you quite a bit. There are a lot of variables when you are doing a compression test with the KACR functioning, so the acceptable range is quite broad. I prefer to disable the KACR and do the compression test because then the numbers relate to what we understand are normal and abnormal for an engine.

This video will show how to do a compression test with and without disabling the KACR. It should be noted that if you are not going to disable the KACR then you don't need to remove the valve cover.
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