['89 Rebuild] Last piece of the puzzle...high idle after warmed up - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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['89 Rebuild] Last piece of the puzzle...high idle after warmed up

Hey all, so if you've been keeping track, I've been on quite an adventure with my '89 KLR. I had engine issues, then tranny issues, then speedometer issues, etc. All are finally sorted and the bike is on the road, inspected, speedometer is working and it's otherwise operating as it should be.

Except for one remaining issue: high idle once it's warmed up.

When the kid who swapped my motor did that work, I had him clean the carb at the same time. I'm assuming it just needs to be 'set'...but I'd rather learn to do it myself than give it to someone else again.

What are some things I should look for? Before I gave him the bike I did do the 22 cent mod or whatever its called where you put a tiny spacer on the carb needle...so I can do that much. I have general mechanic ability so hit me with what you think I need to do.

Someone at another shop told me that it was because I was using 93 ethanol fuel and it gummed up the carb and that I should use 91 non-ethanol...but another shop told me that's bogus.

============

Here are the threads of my adventures thus far (lol):

Original issues, engine blows, no spark, etc.
Bike won't drive under its own power...transmission issues
Repair Log w/ tons of pictures

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine

Last edited by Ilya; 08-16-2018 at 12:25 PM.
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 02:38 PM
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Well, the ethanol thing is not bogus. We don't have that stuff here, at least in 93 octane, but ethanol is well-known for wreaking havoc with fuel systems. It congeals into a a nasty goo that clogs things up. Avoid it if you won't be using it quickly; don't let it sit in the bike.

I don't think that is the first thing I would look at, though.

The first thing you should try is turning the idle speed adjusting screw out. Not to be confused with the idle mixture screw that is deep in the well and should be set a turn and a half or so out.

I can't believe that I didn't have a picture of the idle screw side of a CVK and had to steal one from showtimepowersports, so the least I can do is plug them in return.



If that doesn't work then there is something wonky, dirty, or hung up inside the carb.
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom. It did sit, while it was down, with some 93 ethanol in the tank...but the other day I did put some 91 non-ethanol into it along with a can of seafoam (some say it's snake oil but I use it on my cars regularly). Hasn't seem to make a difference yet.

I'll try that screw. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the easiest. If he took the carb apart to clean it like I asked, he might have definitely just thrown it out of whack.

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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So that screw did the trick. But now it's popping on decel (not that I mind lol)...did I adjust it too much?

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #5 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 06:30 PM
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popping on decel can be caused by an exhaust leak or too-lean mixture when off throttle.
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post #6 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 08:57 PM
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Mild popping is pretty normal. Check the header bolts to make sure they are tightened properly. Shine a light up in there and look for evidence of a leak.

Check back by the joint between the header pipe and the muffler to make sure that clap is tight and the joint is tight. Look at the airbox for evidence of the beginnings of a burn from a leak at the joint.

Turn the idle mixture screw all the way in and back out at least a turn and a half. Go two turns if you want.

If everything checks out, ride that sumbitch. If the popping really bothers you then try a #42 pilot jet. Shouldn't need to do that, though.
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Popping don't bother me...as long as it's not harming the motor with the backfire, I'm fine with it hah. Where is the mixture screw located? Left side?

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 10:27 PM
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The view is to the bottom of the carb with the bowl removed.
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“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #9 of 14 Old 08-17-2018, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
The view is to the bottom of the carb with the bowl removed.
Ahh okay, so I gotta take this thing apart. Thanks for the image as always Tom!

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-17-2018, 10:30 AM
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Nope, you just have to rotate it in the bike so you can get access to the screw. The bottom was off in that picture because another fella was having issues with his floats.

I think you should watch this video from the start to 2:30

and this video from start to 4:00.

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-17-2018 at 10:32 AM.
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