Quick Timing Question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 4 Old 08-20-2018, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
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Quick Timing Question

Hello All,

My '97 has become noticeably louder over the past 300 miles, vibrates a bit more than normal, and has developed a noticeable valve rattle (at least I think that's what the sound is). I figured it was a good time to learn how to check and adjust valve clearance. When I removed the valve cover and turned it to TDC, I noticed that the cam shafts were out of time. The arrows are not level with the head rim. They are pointing a few degrees down of flat when the window shows 'T' (they're a bit ahead of the crank). I am wondering, what might cause the camshafts to lose their timing? I recently had a camshaft journal cap break which was magnificently repaired by Eagle Mike. When I reinstalled the cap, the cam shafts were correctly timed. I also followed the proper tightening sequence for all four caps and used a torque wrench. The bike seems to be running fine, just making more noise than usual. I've taken it on many mountain roads and it has plenty of power. I've also only had the bike for about 400 miles so I have very little to compare it's current state to.

Just curious how or why that would happen and how I can prevent it in the future. My next steps are to correct the timing on the camshafts, check valve clearance, and make the necessary adjustments.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Ben
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post #2 of 4 Old 08-20-2018, 11:57 PM
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Jumping one or more camshaft sprocket teeth will disrupt valve timing. (Ah . . . and there are the, "Super-Tuners" who purposely advance the exhaust cam sprocket one tooth for alleged power gain. Maybe your valve timing has been "improved" by this method.)

Check orientation of witness and index marks; count cam chain links (see Service Manual), and . . . button her up! (Or . . . advance the exhaust cam if you want to.)

An unlikely event; Woodruff key fails to align rotor on crankshaft (key broken or missing). TDC off in this instance. Just mentioning; TWO (2) TDC piston positions per 4-stroke cycle; TDC may always be corroborated with a wire or dowel inserted into the spark plug hole . . .
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post #3 of 4 Old 08-21-2018, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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May I suggest that you accidentally used the "F" mark when you last put it together. And now when properly lined up on the lazy "T" tdc mark the cam sprocket arrows are pointing down below the gasket surface, instead of the normal slightly above gasket surface.

As to your increased vibration & rattle, have you performed the doo-hickey adjustment recently?
Without having any idea of your bikes mileage or service history you may have inadvertently loosened a broken OEM doo-hickey and introduced more slack into the balancer system.

Did you by any chance order an Eagle Mike Doo-Hickey & Torsion Spring?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 4 Old 08-21-2018, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
May I suggest that you accidentally used the "F" mark when you last put it together. And now when properly lined up on the lazy "T" tdc mark the cam sprocket arrows are pointing down below the gasket surface, instead of the normal slightly above gasket surface.
A definite possibility!

As mentioned, the old, "dowel down the spark plug hole" test removes all TDC position ambiguity. Given: Valve timing adjustment demands the CORRECT (of the two available) crankshaft TDC position.
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