Changed my Doohickey thingy. Much cussing - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Changed my Doohickey thingy. Much cussing

Got all my parts together and took a half day off so the wife won't bother me. I didn't tell her. My plan was to do:

1. Doohickey
2. 16 tooth sprocket
3. Carb jet
4. Petcock
5. Frame bolts

and something else or other.

Took all day to do the Doo. Luckily I had bought two gaskets as well. The big problem was removing that rotor bolt. I had purchased a giant wrench head that would fit my 1/2 in breaker bar. Well, the head wouldn't fit so had to use a grinder to make it fit which took forever. After much cussing I got the bolt off and after some more cussing got the doohickey installed and the pieces back together and to my surprise, no leaks. Usually when I do something, it leaks.

So anyway, my bike seems to crank better but when I engage the choke it will rev up to about 2500rpm instead of about the normal 2k rpm. Not a big deal but strange that a cam chain adjustment would make a difference like that.

Just glad it's done. I have a 2014 with a little over 8000 miles on it. There was ZERO sign of wear and the spring was pristine. I would question the need on this bike or at least the need before 20,000 miles.
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 07:55 AM
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I went ahead and bought the Eagle Mike rotor wrench and had mine off in 20 seconds. Wrench held tight against the crash bar and the breaker bar took the bolt right out. I took the outer cover off, pulled the rotor, found that the doo had already been done and put it all back together. Maybe an hour. The right tools are the difference between a cussing day and quick job.

Is the idle issue something to do with the carb kit you said you were doing?
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patroy75 View Post
Got all my parts together and took a half day off so the wife won't bother me. I didn't tell her. My plan was to do:

1. Doohickey
2. 16 tooth sprocket
3. Carb jet
4. Petcock
5. Frame bolts

and something else or other.

Took all day to do the Doo. Luckily I had bought two gaskets as well. The big problem was removing that rotor bolt. I had purchased a giant wrench head that would fit my 1/2 in breaker bar. Well, the head wouldn't fit so had to use a grinder to make it fit which took forever. After much cussing I got the bolt off and after some more cussing got the doohickey installed and the pieces back together and to my surprise, no leaks. Usually when I do something, it leaks.

So anyway, my bike seems to crank better but when I engage the choke it will rev up to about 2500rpm instead of about the normal 2k rpm. Not a big deal but strange that a cam chain adjustment would make a difference like that.

Just glad it's done. I have a 2014 with a little over 8000 miles on it. There was ZERO sign of wear and the spring was pristine. I would question the need on this bike or at least the need before 20,000 miles.
Perhaps, "balancer" chain, vs. cam chain, patroy75?

What carb jet did you change, and from what to what? Agree with shaky6 above, as to the possible cause of your high idle (but not a serious problem, IMHO, since the sympton occurs only when the "choke" (starting enricher) is activated). The videos posted on the, "Carb Overhaul" thread on this website are your friends.

I've wondered myself, if aftermarket doohickey implant is desperately, urgently necessary on latter-day KLR650s. (Got one on my Generation 1.) And, I mull my perennial wonder, what percentage of KLR650s, throughout production beginning in 1987, have aftermarket doohickeys installed? Uh . . . Thermo-Bobs?
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't gotten to the carb yet. I only did the doohickey so that's why I was shocked that there was any change at all.
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 09:45 AM
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Just because your "doo" hadn't caused you a problem (yet) doesn't mean it wasn't going to. How much spring tension was there?

Must be time for my "doohickey" post;

I have spent significant time reading and researching this issue over the years as have others......my opinion is thus:

- Gen1: failure of the stock lever and/or spring is highly likely.......the people "in the know" guesstimate around 33% though I'd suggest the figure is somewhat mileage dependent with the 33% being around 20,000 miles.....higher mileage = higher percentage of failure.

- Gen2: doohickey lever failure is almost non-existant.......the issues of loose fit on the shaft and loss of spring tension are real. Loss of tension is said to occur around 6,000 miles though some have zero tension from new and some still have tension at 20,000 miles.



So is this all an internet myth? No, it's real enough IMO. There are several reasons that I believe contribute to the lack of even more documented failures:

- A great many people never adjust their counterbalance system. If the adjustment is never attempted, the system doesn't get the huge slack that an attempt with a broken spring would introduce. I always tell new owners NOT to adjust the system without physically checking to see it's intact first.

- Most grenaded doo and spring bits float around harmlessly in the bottom end without causing catastrophic failure. My 2001 was opened up at 15,000 miles to find the typical broken doo (three pces) and spring (two pces). I found all the pces in the bottom end and oil screen and the bike was likely ridden for some time in that condition.

- the "upgrade" in 2008 significantly reduced the likelihood of a broken doo lever.

- a large percentage of bikes die of old age, crashes and neglect long before they can be considered high mileage units.

- many failures are never diagnosed......i.e. bike is "broken" and parted out or otherwise discarded.

- Sometimes other failures (i.e. 2008/2009 low oil level/oil burning) takes out the engine before the counterbalance system has the opportunity to.


At the end of the day, I believe that the stock counterbalance adjustment system is problematic but the vast majority of KLR owners are ignorant of the issue and it doesn't come up on their radar for the aforementioned reasons.

On a Gen1, I believe replacement is critical to longevity. On a Gen2 you could get along fine by just periodically checking the spring to ensure it is intact and has tension. Due to the loose fit on the shaft, the springs are put under significantly increased duty cycles, EM's superior lever with better fitment and the torsion spring design completely eliminate this concern.


A KLR, especially a Gen2 can live for quite awhile without even acknowledging the counterbalance adjuster.....but it's still a weak link that is worth replacing if you want some piece of mind.


2 cents,
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Well at least I have piece of mind. I really can't wait to get into the carb. I have plenty of power in this bike. I'm surprised actually. You get this thing in traffic in the power band and it does quite well. With the carb jet upgrade and the 16 tooth sprocket, it should sail!
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 10:37 AM
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patroy75,
As previous members have said, your Balancer Chain doo-hickey replacement had/has nothing to do with your carburation.

Which carburetor Jet Kit are you installing? Have you or are you going to add at least 4 one inch holes into the top of the dirty air box? What is your home altitude?

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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-28-2018, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patroy75 View Post
I really can't wait to get into the carb.
Have youi found the, "Carb Overehaul" videos on this website? I think you'll find 'em useful.
Quote:
I have plenty of power in this bike. I'm surprised actually. You get this thing in traffic in the power band and it does quite well. With the carb jet upgrade and the 16 tooth sprocket, it should sail!
Don't expect too much from changing carb jets . . . the 16-tooth countershaft sprocket reduces torque multiplication, and thus compromises acceleration.

Not to say, "Don't do 'em!" Only . . . sometimes, reality intrudes. Compromises abound.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-29-2018, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
patroy75,
As previous members have said, your Balancer Chain doo-hickey replacement had/has nothing to do with your carburation.

Which carburetor Jet Kit are you installing? Have you or are you going to add at least 4 one inch holes into the top of the dirty air box? What is your home altitude?
I know this :-) lol. I've rebuilt many a carb and motor.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-29-2018, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Have youi found the, "Carb Overehaul" videos on this website? I think you'll find 'em useful.Don't expect too much from changing carb jets . . . the 16-tooth countershaft sprocket reduces torque multiplication, and thus compromises acceleration.

Not to say, "Don't do 'em!" Only . . . sometimes, reality intrudes. Compromises abound.
It should make the 16 tooth at least as peppy as the 15 tooth when you up that jet. One jet up on my sporty was night and day.
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