Tube Leak Issue - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-01-2018, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Tube Leak Issue

Hello folks.

Appreciate all the replies and help I got recently from my "New User Post".
Moving forward, Last weekend I took on the task of changing the front tire for my 06 KLR. Everything went fine (At first). I removed the well worn stock tire and replaced it with a Heidenau K60 Scout Tire [FRONT, 90/90-21 54T TT].

Swap was a success. Re-inflated the tire and used the bike Sunday night through Wednesday, Just for a quick evening commute here and there. Wednesday morning I rode the bike a little futher than days previous, 5 miles or so. Arriving at my destination, the tire drastically lost air leading up to the place and was completely flat when I parked. After picking it up with my truck and ramps, I got it home and tested reinflation only to feel an immediate release of air from a gap on one side of the valve stem. The stem was at an angle of 60 degrees rather than a straight 90.

Today I took the tire off the bike, then removed it from the rim. inspecting the tube, I've discovered a small leak hole. I probably caused that by pinching it too hard in removal

So if you've stuck around to read that novel above here's my questions about moving forward:

-Would it be a foolish idea to pick up a tube patch kit from walmart and be done with this? If so, which patch kit is most reliable? Or should I really consider ordering a brand new tube?

-I mentioned the valve stem was at an angle. It refused to remain straight up and down. I'll attempt to reply to this and pictures here to help show what I'm talking about. The valve nut and washer were inside the rim during the removal process. Videos I watched of other KLR 650s having the tire removed had this nut at the base of the stem on the outside of the rim. Is there a reason it was internal on mine or can I use him to keep that valve straight up and down on the rim?

-Last one: The tire I ordered didn't come with that white triangle looking symbol of where the valve stem hole of the rim should be centered w/ the tire. There's a tiny orange dot on them but I really don't know if that's supposed to be the mark. Anyway- is there a significant impending issue if I just put the tire on wherever and/or is there a way to know where one should align said valve without the mark?

Any information/advice would be greatly appreciated! I know it's a little lengthy- kudos if you read the whole thing!
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-01-2018, 02:24 PM
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Tubes are cheap, readily available, and, to me, much more sensible than a repair, ALTHOUGH, a repair should be just fine. But for the time/effort of repair v. just picking up 2 new tubes (1 for back-up you know), you'll be way aheada the game with a NEW tube instead! And all this rings true to me ESPECIALLY since you say you have a 'valve' issue...

Last edited by KLRCraig; 09-01-2018 at 02:26 PM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-02-2018, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the input. I just went ahead and ordered new tubes.
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-03-2018, 05:03 AM
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You might consider dusting your new tube with TALCUM POWDER (as in, baby powder) prior to installation--facilitates tube alignment in casing, favors radially positioning valve stem (which SHOULD be oriented radially).

Valve stem nut, inside or outside rim?

Don't know the unassailable doctrine on this issue; once heard some big boys on the playground say, "Outside," and further, "Loose, so the valve stem can move around some during heavy acceleration/braking without pulling the valve stem out of the tube."

Discussion is now opened for more knowledgeable and authoritative forum members!

P.S. I commend to you, INTERNET motorcycle tire-changing videos. A number of tips can be gleaned from viewing these. For example, PARTIALLY inflate tube when inserting in casing. And . . . might not be in a video, but . . . a TUBE SNAKE may be useful for initially spearing the valve stem into its rim hole.

As to the Heidenau K60 Scouts; have 'em on two of my bikes . . . thought the sidewalls might be STIFF ENOUGH to run flat! Maybe you don't NEED no stinkin' inner tube!

Finally, don't think you'll find many HONEST motorcyclists who won't admit to puncturing tubes during tire installation/removal.

Finally, finally: Agree with KLRCraig on the virtue of new tubes vs. patched ones. Respecting KLRista Code of Thriftiness, I've patched tubes as best I can and carried them on-board as spares (with a new tube mounted). BTW, a spare FRONT tube can fit a REAR tire in an emergency; no absolute need to carry two on-board tubes.

Last edited by Damocles; 09-03-2018 at 05:09 AM.
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-03-2018, 12:55 PM
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patches are for emergencies; put in a new tube.

during tire install you can work the tire such that the stem stays straight; when it starts pulling one way, start working that side tire bead first.


Dave
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-04-2018, 12:40 PM
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Just use some tube Slime. 8 oz for a KLR size wheel.

1986 Honda TLR 200 Reflex
2002 Ducati Monster 750S < -- For Sale
2005 Kawi KLR 650
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-04-2018, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaky6 View Post
Just use some tube Slime. 8 oz for a KLR size wheel.
For the most part, I'll suggest Not to use Slime. And tire sealants really only work reasonably well on tread area leaks!

pdwestman
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-05-2018, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
For the most part, I'll suggest Not to use Slime. And tire sealants really only work reasonably well on tread area leaks!
you do it the hard way, I'll keep using slime. I've got places to be, a work schedule to keep, and a few bucks to save.

1986 Honda TLR 200 Reflex
2002 Ducati Monster 750S < -- For Sale
2005 Kawi KLR 650
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-05-2018, 07:15 PM
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Anything but new tubes increases my "degree of risk". All those substitutions are fine and will work, but I'd only use them to 'get back out'. That's one reason I never made my scooter(s) my main form-a transpo. Further, I'm on a TIGHT budget, too, and working my tail off to just keep up, but I won't cut corners on my bikes that way.

Funny thing is, first time I heard, "OHHHH NOOOOO, NO, NO, YOU MUST ALWAYS REPLACE TUBES WITH ISSUES, SIR" was from my first MC Shop that was helping me take care of some 10 or so years of bikes. I thought it was just an upsell and I let myself get played as a rookie in the schport. As I rode and learned from others, many far more advanced/experienced than me, they all echoed the same principles.

One was, 'don't futz around with tubes man, always go new'.
I take enough risk being on scooters and riding 'enthusiastically', I don't need to add to my 'list of things to process' ANY part of my Ride's condition.

That's not to say I haven't repaired a tube before and gotten away with it for more than 'just the ride-back-out' though!!!
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-05-2018, 07:33 PM
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I had the same issue on a tube leak.

Put in a new tube on the tire.

Patched the old one and kept it as an emergency spare.

Fully agree with the talcum powder recommendation. You can put a tube with talcum powder in a ziploc bag for safe keeping.

jncdi
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