You might consider dusting your new tube with TALCUM POWDER (as in, baby powder) prior to installation--facilitates tube alignment in casing, favors radially positioning valve stem (which SHOULD be oriented radially).
Valve stem nut, inside or outside rim?
Don't know the unassailable doctrine on this issue; once heard some big boys on the playground say, "Outside," and further, "Loose, so the valve stem can move around some during heavy acceleration/braking without pulling the valve stem out of the tube."
Discussion is now opened for more knowledgeable and authoritative forum members!
P.S. I commend to you, INTERNET motorcycle tire-changing videos. A number of tips can be gleaned from viewing these. For example, PARTIALLY inflate tube when inserting in casing. And . . . might not be in a video, but . . . a TUBE SNAKE may be useful for initially spearing the valve stem into its rim hole.
As to the Heidenau K60 Scouts; have 'em on two of my bikes . . . thought the sidewalls might be STIFF ENOUGH to run flat! Maybe you don't NEED no stinkin' inner tube!
Finally, don't think you'll find many HONEST motorcyclists who won't admit to puncturing tubes during tire installation/removal.
Finally, finally: Agree with KLRCraig on the virtue of new tubes vs. patched ones. Respecting KLRista Code of Thriftiness, I've patched tubes as best I can and carried them on-board as spares (with a new tube mounted). BTW, a spare FRONT tube can fit a REAR tire in an emergency; no absolute need to carry two on-board tubes.