685 Kit? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-04-2009, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Question 685 Kit?

Thinking of maybe doing a 685 kit.
What does it consist of? Is it just a bigger piston or does it come with a new barrel?
How about overheating? Where is the power noticed? Is it worth the trouble?
Who makes the kit and where can I get one?
How much?
Boy, a lot of questions, huh?
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-05-2009, 05:39 PM
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I'll do one eventually, too. Schnitz racing dotcom sells the piston kit. About $250. It is a piston,rings, wrist pin, clips, and a head gasket. Most report a smoother running less vibrating engine, because of the lighter weight piston. Heat is not an issue, because it's just an overbore of your stock jug. If anything, there may be a slight decrease in thermal efficiency. Power should be noticed throughout the RPM range.

'08 blue
'86 KLR 600 (sold)
I'm a cereal KiLleR

Last edited by Eric O; 09-05-2009 at 05:44 PM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-05-2009, 11:18 PM
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Do it!

I broke my piston, so I had an excuse to upgrade. Schnitz Racing has the kit. It is just the piston, pin, rings and base gaskets, one for stock compression, and one for high compression. You have to buy the head gasket and modify it.
The mod to the gasket basically is to match the gasket bore to the new bore, done with a dremel tool. It takes patience and care to modify the gasket.
I had the machining done at superior sleeve in Clackamas oregon. This guy is careful to this point: He allows 2 1/2 hours between hones before he measures and knows if he has to hone more, the point being that honing generates heat and will throw off the readiing.
Now the controversial part. To make this all come together you need to do a couple of things. The known one is to put the .020 shim under the main needle, and to drill out the cap covering the idle screw and back it out a turn, this is the common part that many have done, the controversial part is my design through trial and NO error. Most put jet kits in the KLR, that is a band-aid to an engineering oversight. The fix is to get the vent tube for the carb and get it up out of the cluster down below, route it along the frame under the tank with a final exit up inside the right cowling, (aimed forward) in the the wind. The result is absolutely unbelievable. To see how important this tube is, just put your finger over the tube while it is running, the engine will die, that is why it dies going through water, it momentarily plugs the tube. The bowl does not vent through this tube, it draws air through this tube for emulsification, and with it aimed straight down, the faster you go, the more it tries to siphon off your float bowl causing it to run lean, it hinders the emulsion. Put the tube up and forward, and you are givng the carb all that it needs to run incredible. You want proof? Ok, here it is:
My neigbor just bought a Suzuki V-Strom 650. This bike stock has 18 more horsepower than the KLR. My bike walks away from the V-Strom up to 90 miles an hour before he begins to catch up, and then walks away from th KLR after 95-100. Be a skeptic if you like, but if you want to mod your carb and Vent/emulsion tube for less than $1.00 and have top performance, listen to me. Don't spend time and money on the jet kits. I did try a big gun pipe to see if there was a gain in power, and I could not tell any difference other than how it sounded, so I still run the stock pipe to this day.

Last edited by KLRFan; 09-06-2009 at 12:19 PM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-01-2010, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRFan View Post
I broke my piston, so I had an excuse to upgrade. Schnitz Racing has the kit. It is just the piston, pin, rings and base gaskets, one for stock compression, and one for high compression. You have to buy the head gasket and modify it.
The mod to the gasket basically is to match the gasket bore to the new bore, done with a dremel tool. It takes patience and care to modify the gasket.
I had the machining done at superior sleeve in Clackamas oregon. This guy is careful to this point: He allows 2 1/2 hours between hones before he measures and knows if he has to hone more, the point being that honing generates heat and will throw off the readiing.
Now the controversial part. To make this all come together you need to do a couple of things. The known one is to put the .020 shim under the main needle, and to drill out the cap covering the idle screw and back it out a turn, this is the common part that many have done, the controversial part is my design through trial and NO error. Most put jet kits in the KLR, that is a band-aid to an engineering oversight. The fix is to get the vent tube for the carb and get it up out of the cluster down below, route it along the frame under the tank with a final exit up inside the right cowling, (aimed forward) in the the wind. The result is absolutely unbelievable. To see how important this tube is, just put your finger over the tube while it is running, the engine will die, that is why it dies going through water, it momentarily plugs the tube. The bowl does not vent through this tube, it draws air through this tube for emulsification, and with it aimed straight down, the faster you go, the more it tries to siphon off your float bowl causing it to run lean, it hinders the emulsion. Put the tube up and forward, and you are givng the carb all that it needs to run incredible. You want proof? Ok, here it is:
My neigbor just bought a Suzuki V-Strom 650. This bike stock has 18 more horsepower than the KLR. My bike walks away from the V-Strom up to 90 miles an hour before he begins to catch up, and then walks away from th KLR after 95-100. Be a skeptic if you like, but if you want to mod your carb and Vent/emulsion tube for less than $1.00 and have top performance, listen to me. Don't spend time and money on the jet kits. I did try a big gun pipe to see if there was a gain in power, and I could not tell any difference other than how it sounded, so I still run the stock pipe to this day.
Is there a mod name for the carb work you mentioned above?
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-03-2010, 12:58 PM
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Location: Indiana/ Michigan line at the Lake
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A: The 22 cent mod.
Pull the airbox snorkel so it gets more air. The rectanguler rubber boot.
If you are adventurous, drill a circle of 3/8" holes around the exhaust outlet.
It is no louder and flows more. These holes are behind the muffling part and spark arrestor. I did 6 holes....... .....Then used a holesaw and removed the
entire baffle. One doesn't need to go to that extreme. I wanted some sound.
Quiet at idle and cruise, nice bark when I hit the throttle.

Aim the pink tube forward.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-03-2010, 11:43 PM
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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PM me your email address and I will send you a two part document(s) that shows you what to do and how to do it.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-05-2010, 12:35 AM
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[email protected]

thanks alot.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-05-2010, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapBassTurd View Post
A: The 22 cent mod.
Pull the airbox snorkel so it gets more air. The rectanguler rubber boot.
If you are adventurous, drill a circle of 3/8" holes around the exhaust outlet.
It is no louder and flows more. These holes are behind the muffling part and spark arrestor. I did 6 holes....... .....Then used a holesaw and removed the
entire baffle. One doesn't need to go to that extreme. I wanted some sound.
Quiet at idle and cruise, nice bark when I hit the throttle.

Aim the pink tube forward.
Thanks so much for that information.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-05-2010, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishtail View Post
[email protected]

thanks alot.

emails sent.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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