99 KLR Engine Behavior - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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99 KLR Engine Behavior

Hello all,

About 5 months ago I did a valve job on my KLR. Had to re-shim all valves. which I did. Everything was running great after the valve job, however, recently the bike has been behaving oddly. It's been roughly 1500 miles since the valve job. ( also I completely dismantled, carb-soaked, re-built the carb - at a previous time before the valve job about 3000 miles ago )

The oddity:

right after valve job: The bike would start right up from cold start with choke on. After riding around and having the bike up to normal temperature If the bike was turned off, It would start right back up with no choke.

Now: The bike still starts immediately with choke on from a cold start. The weird part is when the bike starts after being warmed up. I will have to turn the choke on, and hit the starter, it'll crank over like 5 times, backfire and then start up. The hotter the bike is the worst off it is: takes more cranks then backfires louder and starts up.

Happens every single time the bike is started after warm. crank crank crank, backfire, start.

Dunno what to think of this. The only thing I can think of that is related is that after the valve job I had a noticeably high idle. It idles around 2000 rpm. I never got around to adjusting it, didn't think it was a big deal, so I left it. Could this be causing issues?

Bike has roughly 30k miles. At sea-level, roughly 45-65 degrees F on avg temp.

Nick
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dopfreerain View Post
Hello all,

About 5 months ago I did a valve job on my KLR. Had to re-shim all valves. which I did. Everything was running great after the valve job, however, recently the bike has been behaving oddly. It's been roughly 1500 miles since the valve job. ( also I completely dismantled, carb-soaked, re-built the carb - at a previous time before the valve job about 3000 miles ago )

The oddity:

right after valve job: The bike would start right up from cold start with choke on. After riding around and having the bike up to normal temperature If the bike was turned off, It would start right back up with no choke.

Now: The bike still starts immediately with choke on from a cold start. The weird part is when the bike starts after being warmed up. I will have to turn the choke on, and hit the starter, it'll crank over like 5 times, backfire and then start up. The hotter the bike is the worst off it is: takes more cranks then backfires louder and starts up.

Happens every single time the bike is started after warm. crank crank crank, backfire, start.

Dunno what to think of this. The only thing I can think of that is related is that after the valve job I had a noticeably high idle. It idles around 2000 rpm. I never got around to adjusting it, didn't think it was a big deal, so I left it. Could this be causing issues?

Bike has roughly 30k miles. At sea-level, roughly 45-65 degrees F on avg temp.

Nick
Nick, Does your bike have a manual fuel valve installed? If so, do you or do you not Turn the Fuel valve OFF before you turn the key OFF?
Does it still have the automatic vacuum operated fuel valve (which I personally prefer) still on it?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Nick, Does your bike have a manual fuel valve installed? If so, do you or do you not Turn the Fuel valve OFF before you turn the key OFF?
Does it still have the automatic vacuum operated fuel valve (which I personally prefer) still on it?
Yes, It does have a manual fuel valve installed. No, I do not turn it off before turning off the key, should I be? And I'm guess it is still vacuum operated, how can I tell?

Nick
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dopfreerain View Post
Yes, It does have a manual fuel valve installed. No, I do not turn it off before turning off the key, should I be? And I'm guess it is still vacuum operated, how can I tell?

Nick
The OEM vacuum operated Automatic fuel valve does have 3 positions. The hand lever is the pointer.
Handle to the rear is OFF, straight down is ON & forward is Reserve. But many Manual valves point the same.

The OEM automatic vacuum valve has a little Square box on the backside with a spring loaded diaphragm in it. The outer cap has a small brass nipple on it. A 3/16's inch vacuum hose connects to a brass nipple at the Top Front of the carburetor. If the engine is not Cranking or not Running no fuel should flow even if in the ON or Reserve positions. If the OEM valve leaks there are repair parts available.

The Manual valves do NOT have the vacuum box on the back. But they also have repair parts available.

Can you see part# 11009-1188 in this parts screen?
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...cb94/fuel-tank

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 02:22 PM
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I'm thinking that your carburetor is having a flooding condition, caused by either minor damage to this part or crud stuck in the float valve.

When people don't occasionally turn the fuel valves the handle sticks to the ribs around the 4 little holes in the selector disc (packing). When the handle is turned, it rips a tiny piece of rubber off and this rubber crumb jams the carb float needle.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/QerudG7eiyoPqDa16

Should I be able to see 11009? I can't tell by looking at it. Although the back looks like 43028 is installed.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 02:51 PM
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Ok, both of those parts are Internal of the fuel tap assembly. Use the + sign or scroll your mouse to enlarge the pic.

Is carb flooding starting to make sense of your bikes start-up issues?

Your fuel valve must be the oem automatic vacuum style assembly, part #51023-1148 SS to 51023-0715, yes?
If so you may need to replace part #'s 11009-1188 (gasket. tap valve) and 92055-1085 o-ring. And then remove & clean the crumb of rubber from the carb float valve.

The large knurled knob on the RH side of the cleaned & reinstalled carb is the Idle Speed screw, adjust your fully warm idle rpm to about 1300 rpm.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Ok, both of those parts are Internal of the fuel tap assembly. Use the + sign or scroll your mouse to enlarge the pic.

Is carb flooding starting to make sense of your bikes start-up issues?

Your fuel valve must be the oem automatic vacuum style assembly, part #51023-1148 SS to 51023-0715, yes?
If so you may need to replace part #'s 11009-1188 (gasket. tap valve) and 92055-1085 o-ring. And then remove & clean the crumb of rubber from the carb float valve.

The large knurled knob on the RH side of the cleaned & reinstalled carb is the Idle Speed screw, adjust your fully warm idle rpm to about 1300 rpm.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...carburetor-2-3

are you saying that I dont have to adjust the idle screw in the bottom of the carb to adjust the idle? I can turn 16021? Also, could you be more specific about where the carb float valve is. I'm familiar with the top large diaphragm, smaller side dia, and the bottom float bowl.

Thank you! nick
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-29-2019, 03:30 PM
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Carb parts page 1 / 16030-1057 , Valve-Float and the permanent brass seat that it fits into, inside the float bowl.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...carburetor-1-3

Yeah, there is no Need to adjust the idle Mixture screw ahead of the float bowl if it runs fine when properly warm. Just adjust the large idle SPEED screw on the RH side.

I really think that you need to read, study & understand the link in post #1 and view the videos this thread,
https://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tec...ing-cvk40.html

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-30-2019, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Carb parts page 1 / 16030-1057 , Valve-Float and the permanent brass seat that it fits into, inside the float bowl.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...carburetor-1-3

Yeah, there is no Need to adjust the idle Mixture screw ahead of the float bowl if it runs fine when properly warm. Just adjust the large idle SPEED screw on the RH side.

I really think that you need to read, study & understand the link in post #1 and view the videos this thread,
https://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tec...ing-cvk40.html
Actually I was having some battery issues. I thought the battery was dead, recharged it, last about 4 days died again. Finally convinced that I needed a new one. Got a new one yesterday, and tested the the bike start at full warm with the new battery. It starts quickly with choke off and doesnt make a huge backfire ( think I heard a really small one ). I wonder if the bike on the old battery, is spinning too slowly to light off, but dumping fuel in, then finally ignites the super rich environment and backfires/starts.

Also, I cant believe this whole time I didn't know I could adjust the idle that easy!!
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